Half Pint - Z22 swapped 510 goon

[Lockleaf]

But as I'm wiring this freehand, knowing what amperage I'm drawing allows me to determine what gauge wire to use in addition to what amp fuse to run.

 

Regardless, are you saying that in automotive elecrical design a circuit protected by 30 amp fuse is all wired with 30 amp-able wire, even if it's actually protecting 6 different 5 amp circuits? I guess that makes sense, but I've never thought about it that way.

 

So a fuse needs to be big enough to handle the load through it, but no bigger, and all the wiring the fuse protects needs to be rated to that same amperage as the fuse?

 

Is that correct?

[datzenmike]

Sounds about right except you can run wire larger if you want, just not lower. In automotive, costs never allow this.

[LTJ]

Wow! Just spent the last few hours reading through this thread, I have to commend your efforts so far!

 

Awesome work and will be an amazing car when finished, just the right amount of patina and interest in the body too.

 

Huge work with the wiring so far, just shows what can be done with enough commitment!

[Lockleaf]

Thanks LTJ. I'm pretty sure I've written an automotive elecrical primer here at this point :)

 

Once I finally get to the body work, I'm going to try to knock out the largest of the dents, polish the paint like crazy and rock the patina. She spent 45 years trying to look that good, gotta let her show it off.

[Lockleaf]

Finishing up fan fitment. I still wasnt 100% sure the drivers side fan would fit.

 

I removed all the mounting hardware from the fan. I need the mounting hardware rotated 180° around the fan. Left as is, one of the 3 legs holding the fan to the shroud hits the crank pulley. By rotating the fan, the pulley falls in gap between the other 2 legs. You can see the thick leg on the inner side of the fan on the top of the photo. That's what interferes and why the fan must be rotated.

 

 

 

 

Then I had to make a small notch in the fan shroud and that was it.

 

 

 

Everything now fits great. I will just need to relocate the mounting hardware.

[Lockleaf]

And as of now, I have a radiator/fan assembly that drops in and pulls out as one. The fans will attach to the radiator, then the whole thing will slide in right in front of the engine.

 

Now just to make all the pieces attach to one another.

[Lockleaf]

I finished my fan switch adapter.

 

 

 

And I stuffed a copper crush washer between the adapter and the fan switch which hopefully will seal them together.

 

[LTJ]

 I'm going to try to knock out the largest of the dents, polish the paint Luke crazy and rock the patina. She spent 45 trying to look that good, gotta let her show it off.

That is what I wanted to hear! :thumbup:

 

I'm going to have to fake some of the patina on mine, just not old or interesting enough yet! Though I might do a silver metal flake roof...

 

Great work getting the fans in, planning on an SV21 Camry radiator in mine with the twin fans attached, looks like it should work once I widen the cut out a bit.

[Charlie69]

Lockleaf put a couple tack welds on the the water pump pulley to the pump shaft.  Datzenmike had a pulley come off.

[datzenmike]

That was totally my fault for trimming it way too close.

[Charlie69]

Mine is cut close also so it will get 3 tack welds.  Thank you Mike for sharing that information.

[Lockleaf]

I'll throw a couple tacks at it before it gets run, just to be safe.

 

Been working on finalizing mounting for the fans. Flattened the old mounts I had removed with a press, then bent them up at a the new correct lengths with my metal brake. It was great. :) tools are fun.

 

 

And tacked

 

 

Drilled some holes in the other fan

 

 

And built this support strap across the center

 

 

And then made these fit here

 

 

Drilled holes and tacked nuts on the bottom side so the fans bolt on

 

 

I built a thing!

 

 

And finished the thing!

 

 

I also painted up the fan shrouds, since they had a bunch of modifications done to them.

[Draker]

Nice metal work! Usually takes me way longer than expected to make stuff like that... often cause I don't have the right tools.. lol

[Lockleaf]

And in the ongoing epic of wiring this beasty, I've realized I have painted myself in to yet another corner.

 

This is the '82 720 a/c diagram.

 

 

The fan switch in the system has a separate contact to ground the a/c. My insistence on using the 510 fan switch eliminated that contact. I'm afraid that if I were to ground it through the fan switch, then the a/c clutch would kick every time I changed fan speeds. Seems bad.

 

And if I ground it directly, then the a/c system could be operational without the fans running. But I want that backup built in to the system.

 

So I need a different switch.

 

And I'm going to try an r50 pathfinder.

 

I think I can modify the switch to fit just like the factory 510 switch. It has the a/c contact in it and is rotating knob style.

 

And I have one. Here's hoping...

[Lockleaf]

Nice metal work! Usually takes me way longer than expected to make stuff like that... often cause I don't have the right tools.. lol

Thanks draker. It always takes me way longer than I think stuff will. Oh well, it's fun :)

[LTJ]

It's always the little fiddly stuff that no one would notice that takes the most time and effort!

[Lockleaf]

Closing in on completing the fans. I bought some foam weather strip, 3/16 thick by 3/8 wide, and put it around the perimeter of my fan shrouds, on the back side.

 

 

 

The shrouds are metal and were resting directly on the fins. I wasn't comfortable with that, so I'm hoping this will be enough isolation to keep my fans from wearing holes in the radiator.

 

Here's the (basically) finished assembly.

 

[Lockleaf]

On to the R50 pathfinder fan switch!

 

Started here

 

 

Cut threads in to the shaft (m12x1.5). Worked great.

 

.

 

Ignore the ugly nut. It was for testing purposes only. I had to round file the dash opening slightly to fit the m12 shaft. I also had to file the plastic dash bezel a little.

 

 

Had to shorten the shaft to get the knob closer to the dash.

 

 

And then the knob. I cut the pathfinder knob down to just the center of it that fits over the shaft. Then i drilled the middle out of the stock 510 knob. And then fit them together.

 

 

I ended up using my press to smash to the center piece into the knob. I drilled too far or too wide and punched the sides out of the knob. Dammit.

 

 

Alas, I will have to fix that. I'm going to JB weld the holes. This will both fill the holes and extra secure the center into the knob. Then just sand and paint the knob. Like I did the dimmer knob.

 

The knob moves the same number of degrees per click as the 510 knob, so it lines up to the marks on the dash perfectly. Only one downside.

 

This is a 4 position switch, and the car is wired for 3 fan speeds. So I wired it so high fan speed is both of the last 2 clicks. Seemed like the thing to do to me.

 

 

Finished the wiring on it.

 

 

And whenever I'm ready, that green wire is the solution to my a/c circuit grounding issue. That's a crap load of work for an a/c system I don't even have :)

 

JB weld is now curing on my switch. I hope to have the knob totally finished tomorrow.

[LTJ]

Nice work as always!

[datzenmike]

It's always the little fiddly stuff that no one would notice that takes the most time and effort!

 

...but pays off big time later.

[datsunfreak]

The shrouds are metal and were resting directly on the fins. I wasn't comfortable with that, so I'm hoping this will be enough isolation to keep my fans from wearing holes in the radiator.

 

Should also help fan efficiency a tiny bit too by forcing the fan to only pull air from the front of the radiator.  :thumbup:

[Lockleaf]

Engine room,

 

Does this schematic properly integrate your rectifier bridge suggestion?

 

[Lockleaf]

Made a jamb nut. Used a long bolt to hold the nut. Cut it in half with grinder.

 

 

 

 

It fits.

 

Switch at off position

 

 

Switch at high. Lines up to both pretty well.

 

 

Backside of switch. Clearance is adequate.

 

[Charlie69]

Looks good Lockleaf.  Is that epoxy on the switch knob.  I have used wet or dry sand paper to texture knobs in the past.  I file and sand the knobs to shape, then I put a skim coat of glazing putty over the knob, then I take some 320 wet or dry sand paper and lightly press it in to the glazing putty to create a texture.  You will have to practice on something else until you feel you are proficient enough to use this technique on your knob.

 

Did you find a place to buy the rectifiers?  They are probably cheap on line.

[LTJ]

You will have to practice on something else until you feel you are proficient enough to use this technique on your knob..

There is a joke there somewhere...

 

Switch looks good Lockleaf!