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Half Pint - Z22 swapped 510 goon


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Pulled my 620 mounts off the L18 in my garage, cleaned them up and painted them.

 

Pulled the engine and trans back out of the 510. I had some tidying up chores to do. I installed the intake manifold, the alternator, the clutched water pump and the 620 motor mount brackets today. I also installed my gas pedal and ghetto rigged the 720 throttle cable in to the car and hooked it up.

 

Fitting the 620 brackets.

 

20160504_190350_zpsggqbgkgf.jpg

 

Hey look, its a fan clutch.

 

20160504_161745_zpsorfkhccu.jpg

 

Decided to take a crack at a “short shifter” method that I think I saw DMike talk about. Maybe not, I don't really know.

 

So heres a stock shift lever (not really sure from what, maybe a 720? Seems likely on this thread :)

 

20160504_151224_zpsjaijmowq.jpg

 

I flipped the bushing to extend the length of the bottom half of the lever arm

 

20160504_154117_zpsmojvaxnu.jpg

 

Then I drilled new holes slightly higher on the transmission, so that the lower half of the lever arm is again “longer”.

 

20160504_153747_zpsvnr9xol5.jpg

 

20160504_153741_zpsxrayjvdf.jpg

 

Installed my new gas pedal and the 720 throttle cable in to the car. I wanted to test pedal throw. There isn't much. I think it's less than two inches from nothing to full throttle. To my foot it feels really short. I realized that the way I built the new lever arm, the pivot is basically in the middle, so it's a 1:1 ratio of my foot to the throttle cable movement. Not sure how I feel about that, but it might also just be an issue in my head. I'm going to drive it before I change anything.

 

Top of pedal movement. This is idle/sitting.

 

20160504_200220_zpsw8eiphmv.jpg

 

This is full throttle, smashed to the limit. The difference is easily noticed if you look at the black busted edge of the sound deadener right behind the pedal.

 

20160504_200232_zpsm7psngpz.jpg

 

Would I normally expect to see more than that? Looking for opinions.

 

You can see the cable routing across the back of the valve cover. Once I finish install it, I will likely install a bracket on the back of the valve cover to hold the cable. It's a bit snug, but I don't think any of the turn are TOO tight.

 

20160504_200505_zps6pcbkzfr.jpg

 

And obviously the engine is installed again.

 

Thanks to everyone who participated in this weeks edition of “Making a Z fit!” The winner of our show is one Mr. Datsunfreak. L series mounts, reversed side to side, drop the Z in very nicely. It might be 3 or 4 degrees tilted over from vertical, but it's nothing i'm going to cry about. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

20160504_183545_zpsqvv5afmg.jpg

 

20160504_183551_zpsgtps2mid.jpg

 

With the engine all properly fitted and my fancy fan clutch in place, I test fit the radiator to see what I was looking at.

 

Well shit.

 

20160504_200849_zpsrhzq1r9z.jpg

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This next post is a photodump all about shift levers. I have 4 of them, all different. I THINK I have a 510 lever, a 620 lever, a 720 2wd lever, and a 720 4x4 lever, but I'm not really actually sure.

 

20160504_190539_zpslknaqzji.jpg

 

IMG_20160505_005251_zpswrhlqnlu.jpg

 

I decided I would try each of them to see how they felt in the car shifting through the gears. And I tried all of them both ways. What follows is 2 pics of each of the 8 options, just for fun. Every pic is with the transmission in second gear.

 

Option 1

 

20160504_190300_zpsnvvdfef5.jpg

 

20160504_190305_zpskwdol8th.jpg

Option 1 reversed

 

20160504_190346_zps8umgcky0.jpg

 

20160504_190350_zpsggqbgkgf.jpg.

 

Option 2

 

20160504_192109_zpseu6c3l8h.jpg

 

20160504_192120_zps1zj3ztbf.jpg

 

Option 2 reversed

 

20160504_192143_zps0bipqpa9.jpg

 

20160504_192149_zpsvhhkgv85.jpg

 

Option 3

 

20160504_192307_zpsrt8qnyth.jpg

 

20160504_192312_zpsytlxfnoo.jpg

 

Option 3 reversed

 

20160504_192333_zpsydbgnr5j.jpg

 

20160504_192339_zpsevqusosy.jpg

 

Option 4

 

20160504_192415_zpsptb9l0wk.jpg

 

20160504_192419_zpsbvtfytdw.jpg

 

Option 4 reversed

 

20160504_192456_zpst5ebvc4v.jpg

 

20160504_192500_zps2fhapufs.jpg

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For now I'm going with option 2.  I think it is the stock 510 lever, in the stock orientation.  I liked option 4, but it sat a little too high.  And the other two felt very rat rod.  Way too high.  I could rest my wrist on the shift knob while holding on to the steering wheel... its a bit high.  Remember too, that every single one of those photos is in the same gear.  They are all in second.

 

Option 2 didn't have a long enough lower lever arm for me to be comfortable using the "short shifter" upper position I just drilled.  So it's in the stock lower location.

 

I'm eventually planning a custom lever arm with some personalized treatment.  If that actually comes together, I hope it will be cool.  But until then, option 2 it is.

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This next post is a photodump all about shift levers. I have 4 of them, all different. I THINK I have a 510 lever, a 620 lever, a 720 2wd lever, and a 720 4x4 lever, but I'm not really actually sure.

 

20160504_190539_zpslknaqzji.jpg

 

IMG_20160505_005251_zpswrhlqnlu.jpg

First two are from '80 on I have that style from an S110 (200sx) and some 720s and  I didn't keep track which is which.

 

Last two are from 71B transmissions. If the one is from a 620 then '74 or later. The last one is not from either kind of 510s.

 

 

Here are two different ones in the same style.

shifterstyles001Large.jpg

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For now I'm going with option 2.  I think it is the stock 510 lever, in the stock orientation.  

 

 

Stock 510 is a different style. Uses two big fat rubber bushings like a sway bar end link sort of thing. Won't work in this trans, so not sure what that's from...

 

Stock is the lower photo:

Trans%20Change%20Shifter%20dif%20001.jpg

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And obviously the engine is installed again.

 

Thanks to everyone who participated in this weeks edition of “Making a Z fit!” The winner of our show is one Mr. Datsunfreak. L series mounts, reversed side to side, drop the Z in very nicely. It might be 3 or 4 degrees tilted over from vertical, but it's nothing i'm going to cry about. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

As I recall, the carb should be level if it's done "correctly". Might try putting a level on the top of it to see where it is?

 

With the engine all properly fitted and my fancy fan clutch in place, I test fit the radiator to see what I was looking at.

 
Well shit.

 

FYI a late 70s/early 80s VW Rabbit radiator will work with a fan clutch and fan installed. Also has the hoses in the right spot for a Z20/Z22. Did that using 80-83 200SX radiator hoses trimmed a few inches. It all fit together well. 

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Based upon feedback, I have updated my shifter photo.

 

 

IMG_20160506_211824_zpsm3dbstft.jpg

 

:)

 

Thanks for the info on those guys.

 

I've done some research on a variety of vw radiators ranging from the 70s up to the early 2000.

 

I was wondering if one would clear the fan assembly, so thanks for that tip. Gonna have to go that direction I think. Thanks for the heads up on the hoses as well.

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So I've made a poor decision.

 

20160505_171849_zpsyx7hntq7.jpg.

 

I've started semi tucking my engine bay wiring harness. I seriously should have left well enough alone...

 

Now I'm far enough in I need to finish before moving on to other projects, which I probably should have done first anyway. Oh well :)

 

I split my engine bay wiring harness apart in to two sections. I wanted to hide everything that goes up to the front of the engine bay. There is a hole in that leads in to the fender well from the interior, very close to where the original wiring entered the engine bay.

 

Routed through the fender well is everything for the front of the car. This is just getting it all fitted, not permanent.

 

20160505_204808_zps6z4w8e7o.jpg

 

I made a scary choice and cut a new access hole in to the engine bay by which I could route the wiring out of the fender well.

 

Outside of engine bay in fender well.

 

20160505_204819_zps7hwfwhky.jpg

 

Inside engine bay, just above where fuel line comes in.

 

20160505_204833_zpsnv7edvsm.jpg

 

Then it's routed across the bottom of the engine bay. Lighting wires go up to the lights, distributor and coil wiring run along the frame rail to come up the fender under the coil. I will eventually mount the second coil next to the first one, higher on the fender.

 

20160505_204858_zpsrbcpdyj9.jpg

 

This is the other half of the wiring in the engine bay. Alternator, gauge sending units, wiper motor etc. It comes through the factory wiring hole.

 

20160505_204923_zpsr9iml0ej.jpg

 

That's as far as I got. I had to split some wires to get things to separate this far, so I will need to extend those and put them back together.

 

Plenty more to do...

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IMG_20160506_211824_zpsm3dbstft.jpg

 

The left side (720) were used on other vehicles of the 80s. The one marked 4x4 may just be a later year 720 2wd? The one marked 510 if not for use on a 71B could also be from a 200sx dogleg or from the B-210s. Both used the same 71B style.

 

Ultimately, run whatever fits and works to your satisfaction. I bent my old 620 shifter in a vice to position it where I wanted it. My 710 now has an early mid ratio zx 5 speed with an '85 SD25 diesel tail on it to get the shorter shift. I used the bottom S bend shifter below. You can turn it 180 also, to move it forward or back several inches. 

shifterstyles001Large.jpg

 

You shouldn't have to 'reach' for the gears, they should be 'right there'. I've seen shift levers shortened 4+" (literally a short shifter) and the drivers shoulders leave the back of the seat while groping around on the floor to find the knob. I find my slightly bent right arm drops from the steering wheel placing my hand directly on top of the shifter. Only the arm moves when shifting all gears and the slight bend allows for straightening to easily reach 1st, 3rd and 5th. Make your Datsun fit you!.

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I do love a tucked bay! I'd try to get the cowl drain tube back in there though!

So that's what this hole was for. I'll have to work on that then and make sure I can make it all fit.

 

The tube that comes straight down out of the dash, I'm guessing that's the drain tube?

 

There was nothing under there when I got the car. It never occurred to me that a drain would route through the cab that way.

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shifterstyles001Large.jpg

 

You shouldn't have to 'reach' for the gears, they should be 'right there'. I've seen shift levers shortened 4+" (literally a short shifter) and the drivers shoulders leave the back of the seat while groping around on the floor to find the knob. I find my slightly bent right arm drops from the steering wheel placing my hand directly on top of the shifter. Only the arm moves when shifting all gears and the slight bend allows for straightening to easily reach 1st, 3rd and 5th. Make your Datsun fit you!.

MIKES PIC FROM HIS POST AND MY QUOTE

 

shifterstyles001_Large.jpg

 

I agree with you on shifter position. That's why I tried all 4, both ways, to get one that fit best. For now I will be using the one I had mismarked as a 510 unit. It's pretty good, though I would like it an inch farther forward. I think a straight one, like in that middle of your pic, might just be perfect.

 

I'm happy with what I have for now. Eventually I plan to customize one, but this will work for the nonce.

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So that's what this hole was for. I'll have to work on that then and make sure I can make it all fit.

 

The tube that comes straight down out of the dash, I'm guessing that's the drain tube?

 

There was nothing under there when I got the car. It never occurred to me that a drain would route through the cab that way.

Yup! It is a spot that can get plugged up, or if the tube is old and cracked, can be the source of mystery water on your floor, lol. Good to blow it out once in a while.

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I've done some research on a variety of vw radiators ranging from the 70s up to the early 2000.

 

I was wondering if one would clear the fan assembly, so thanks for that tip. Gonna have to go that direction I think. Thanks for the heads up on the hoses as well.

 

I believe only the Rabbit (A1 chassis) radiator has a filler cap. As I recall, starting in '85 (A2 chassis) they went to a separate filler tank connected to the radiator via a small 10mm hose. 

 

And if you get a Vanagon cap, you can run a catch can too. Rabbit cap is designed to vent around itself, thus making a mess if it boils over. 

 

Vanagon  cap has a nipple for routing excess water to a remote bottle. Plus, it looks like a dalek...    ^_^

 

Radiator-Cap-for-Volkswagen2012363334818

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I'm looking into everything you suggested, DF, as well as later vw options.

 

If I use the later vw radiator, I have to install a radiator cap/neck in the upper hose.

 

The dalek radiator cap is freaking awesome, but also less common, and that radiator costs about $40 more in local parts stores. Not sure which option I will be going with.

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I disassembled an entire 720 wiring harness today. I needed some wiring to extend stuff as I work on my pseudo-tuck, so I just decided to take this thing competely apart and put everything in my wiring stock.

 

20160510_135544_zpsnbtjdevh.jpg

 

Then got to extending wires. The magnetic based wire holder is one of the best tools I've ever used. Holy crap did it make this easy.

 

20160510_162707_zps9q7xvnrz.jpg

 

Seriously, I love this thing. Used it here while extending all the wires to the wiper motor.

 

20160510_175541_zpsgwl4afrb.jpg

 

I'm getting there. Much tidier then the last pic of this area. I probably should have run the wiper motor wiring through the dash and brought it out by the mastery cylinders. Would have hidden it much better. Oh well, I doubt I'm going to do that now.

 

20160510_185158_zpsynqe3uwa.jpg

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If I use the later vw radiator, I have to install a radiator cap/neck in the upper hose.

 

Yes. 

 

 

 

The dalek radiator cap is freaking awesome, but also less common, and that radiator costs about $40 more in local parts stores. Not sure which option I will be going with.

 

 

On Rockauto the cap is $2.45 ('84 Vanagon 1.9L gas), but yeah the radiator seems to be tough to find as of late. Rockauto wants $123.79 and has only one in stock. 

 

FWIW, from Summit you can get the all aluminum version made by Griffin? At least it uses a normal cap and has a overflow nipple...

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-2-28185-x/overview/

 

Not cheap, but pretty awesome. And will outperform and outlast a Chinese aftermarket stocker. But it is thicker so probably bye-bye fan clutch...

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Yeah, that 3 inches thick is not going to work. Planning to keep the clutch fan for now if at all reasonable. And really, $250 for just the radiator is out of my current budget. I love all the info you guys are dumping in here though.

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Planning to keep the clutch fan for now if at all reasonable. And really, $250 for just the radiator is out of my current budget.

 

If you are okay with an external filler, it could save you a lot of money...

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sgt-cu837/overview/

 

Last one I did like this I got an inline filler from a Dodge Dakota in the junkyard...

 

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51mrfs1BxrL._SY355_.jpg

 

Look around the jy if it's a tight budget. Loads of options for a filler there. 

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The Dakota filler is about 1/4 inch larger in hose diameter than the z22 and the vw radiators.

 

I work at oreilly so I've been using our system and parts to see how things might go together. I know I can use hose reducers, but prefer not to.

 

The z22 and an early 90s vw rad share the same hose diameter of 1.25 inch. I've been thinking of a vw radiator and an in line filler, like this one.

 

MOR63745.gif

 

Budget is basically a primary consideration. I just graduated law school last Friday and I have no job prospects so I continue at oreilly whilst job hunting. So I buy most everything with my excellent employee discount or at the junkyard. I justify spending any money at all because it's my only real outlet, without which I'm a total bastard. Plus it's mostly self funding. I rebuild old bikes and sell them to feed my addiction. :)

 

You mentioned other cars with in line fillers. I don't know of any others beyond the dodge, nor does my work computer. Know any off the top of your head? Or did you just mean use something like a vw pressurized coolant tank?

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You mentioned other cars with in line fillers. I don't know of any others beyond the dodge, nor does my work computer. Know any off the top of your head? 

 

Not specifics. Seen several Toyotas with smaller ones. Really just need to take a stroll through the junkyard and look at as many cars as you can, at least that's what I did. 

 

 

Or did you just mean use something like a vw pressurized coolant tank?

 

That's not the worst plan. It's not "pretty", but it works. 

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