Half Pint - Z22 swapped 510 goon

[Lockleaf]

Looks good Lockleaf. Is that epoxy on the switch knob. I have used wet or dry sand paper to texture knobs in the past. I file and sand the knobs to shape, then I put a skim coat of glazing putty over the knob, then I take some 320 wet or dry sand paper and lightly press it in to the glazing putty to create a texture. You will have to practice on something else until you feel you are proficient enough to use this technique on your knob.

 

Did you find a place to buy the rectifiers? They are probably cheap on line.

There is a link provided by engine room for rectifier bridges that are cheap. I think it's on the previous page of this thread. I've been looking at other options, but those do seem to make the most sense. Cheap, easily installed, pre assembled.

 

And yes that is JB weld going on there on the knob. I've repaired another knob this way and was able to sand it down and paint it. That's somewhere in this thread as well :).

 

That texturing technique is cool. I was planning on shaping the knob, then masking off the smooth areas and spraying one very light coat of rattle can truck bed liner on the textured areas and then repainting the whole knob from there. I will probably still do that since I have the bed liner and I don't have any spot putty (or experience with it). Thanks for the tip!

[Lockleaf]

Nevermind Charlie, it was two pages back.

Here's the link.

 

Let me clarify that.

 

You would use 2 bridge rectifiers. One for each relay. Wire the -terminal of each rectifier to each relay. On the A rectifier, wire each output of the BMW switch to one of the ~ terminals. On the B rectifier wire the A/C switch to one of the ~ terminals and the hi output of the BMW switch to the other ~ terminal.

 

uxcell® 5 x Silver Tone Metal Case Single-Phase Bridge Rectifier 1KV 50Amp KBPC50-10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CFSVB7G/

[datzenmike]

Engine room,

 

Does this schematic properly integrate your rectifier bridge suggestion?

 

 

Not seeing how this is better than your 2 diode set up. This is a DC direct current circuit, not AC, there's nothing to rectify.. Four, make that 6 of those diodes don't do anything.

[Lockleaf]

Electrically, it isn't any better. You are correct.

 

The advantage seems to be in cost, ease of installation, availability, and durability.

 

Those rectifiers are cheap, easy, and common, much like transexual hookers in Thailand. :)

 

I would love to have diodes built like a regular ATO blade fuse. They exist, but are over $20 a pop. I could make some (I have considered soldering a diode across the top of a burned out fuse), but I'm not sure the payoff is there. The rectifiers are only $8.50 for 5, shipped free with Amazon prime, so while they are overkill, there are simple advantages to using them.

[datzenmike]

Got cha.

[Lockleaf]

No one wants this much detail on a knob repair.

 

TOO BAD! BEHOLD THE GLORY OF MY KNOB!! (I said that just for you LTJ :) )

Two layers of jb weld to get enough fill, then sanded with my dremel and finished with some 320 grit by hand.

 

Side 1

 

 

Side 2

 

 

Masked off for texturing

 

 

Textured and unmasked. I sprayed 2 light layers of rattle can bed liner on it. Just until I decided it was sufficient. I used duplicolor Bed Armor.

 

 

Painted the whole thing with satin black.

 

 

Once the new paint cures, I will re paint the white line and the knob will be done. I'm really quite happy with how it turned out. Looks fantastic IMHO. If it's too pebbly for anyone wanting to try this, this stuff can be knocked down some with some light sanding.

[Charlie69]

That looks great and much easier and quicker than my old school way.  Thank you for sharing.

[TENDRIL]

that is awesome!

[Filthy_]

Details.

[tdc]

super rad build. i know it was a few pages ago (i just read this cover to cover), but you'll not have any problems with the foot dimmer, clutch pedal, and not knowing what to do with yourself at a light. 90% of the vehicles i've owned throughout my driving career had them and it's never even been a consideration. plus it's rad as fuck and you can get one of them barefoot covers for it! 

[Lockleaf]

Thanks guys. I seem to be putting a whole lot of effort in to making it look I haven't done anything. My sister saw the car for the first time the other day. She was blown away when I told her I easily had more than 100 hours invested in the car already. She couldn't figure out where I had put all that time, the car still looked like I had just dragged out out of a junkyard according to her :)

 

 

TDC, that's a LOT to get through. I appreciate the compliment of you spending your time on it. One of my buddies just finished a 454 swapped 74 Monte Carlo for his dad and that beasty has a Bigfoot gas pedal and has the tiny version on the dimmer. I actually hadn't ever seen one in real life (that I remember) until like 3 days ago when he brought the Monte by for me to see :)

[datzenmike]

The 'Surfer' gas pedal? Wow how '60s.

[LTJ]

Great stuff! That knob looks factory!

:thumbup:

[The Engine Room]

Engine room,

 

Does this schematic properly integrate your rectifier bridge suggestion?

 

 

That's it!

[Lockleaf]

And finished

 

 

See? I made a pretty white stripe :)

[Lockleaf]

Scored a set of S12 V6 struts today. They are complete minus calipers, but I have a complete set of brand new M30 brakes including calipers I will install on these when I get to that point. Which will be a while. And I will need Z31 or M30 hubs. But they were cheap so its ok.

 

[Lockleaf]

Haven't done anything except a little more parts collecting. I picked up an original a/c setup from edekalil.

 

I got the condenser/fan assembly too.

 

I also picked up a center console from a b210, from a local guy. Not 100% sure if I'm going to use it or not, but it looks pretty good in there I think.

 

 

I ghetto clamped the ac unit in and put in the console. Dash isn't even installed, Just jammed in there. :)

 

 

Then I picked up a ford 460 oil cooler adapter.

 

 

The box is a coolant to oil intercooler. I removed that.

 

 

 

I will be cutting off one leg that attached to the cooler and plugging that and the other cooler port most likely. Then I will remove the pipe plugs in the pic above and running hose from there out to a standard oil cooler.

 

Why this instead of a pancake one from interwebs?

 

1. Looks stock, I like that.

2. Cost, maybe $18 when all is said and done.

3. To prove I could, because I want to.

 

That is all.

 

My free time has been eaten up by a mini cooper s head gasket for a family member. I will never own one of these. 8 hours to just remove the head. Lame.

[Draker]

Not an ac unit ive seen before. Round ports are interesting. Cool setup.

[Lockleaf]

Alrighty. I got my Utah State BAR application finished and submitted. That took forever. But I have a little freedom again. I spent it on my 510 today.

 

I modified the oil cooler adapter to work on the z22. Looks like it should be great.

 

I cut off one leg that would interfere against the block.

 

 

Then tapped both open passages for a 3/8 npt. The other end of each passage already was plugged with 3/8 npt plugs. I removed those and reinstalled them in the fresh cut threads.

 

 

The newly opened ends of the passages are better placed to run oil cooler lines. I will install hose barbs in these.

 

 

And here is where it will sit. Oil filter will be pointed up, be low, but be higher than the crossmember, so it's safe, and clearance is sufficient between alternator and engine mount.

 

 

Overall I'm pretty happy with it. It was a gamble that I seem to have won. I will actually install it when I pull the motor again soon.

 

Going slow again, but it's nice to at least have movement.

[datzenmike]

Hose barbs????? This isn't a heater core, that's 50-65 PSI of 250F hot oil. You'll need fittings like a power steering pump.

[Lockleaf]

Wasted lots of time on the exhaust manifold. Tried to cut npt threads into the secondary air injection and egr ports. That lead to all sorts of headaches that took forever to resolve and at the end, I still didn't have threads.

 

Then realized there was a better way. Freeze plugs.

 

 

 

I pounded them in past flush with manifold. Then back filled the bastards with a super gritty exhaust repair product. It has a similar texture to cast iron. Once dirty, I think it will match the manifold and disappear.

 

 

[Lockleaf]

I hooked my two fuse/relay boxes together today. They are just bolted to a spacer. The whole assembly will get bolted to the strut tower basically right where they are sitting.

 

 

I also used my new ammeter to test my fans. They draw way less than I expected. Boot up draws about 12 amps, but then they settle back to around 9 amps. This is the pic of testing it, but after this pic i improved some of the connections. The fan sped up, and the amps went up. Hooray tools!

 

[LTJ]

Good progress!

[Lockleaf]

I abandoned that exhaust manifold I've fighting. Busted off a stud at the collector, long term exhaust leak seems to have pitted the crap out of the flange, requiring machining, and there is a 3 or 4 inch crack in the manifold. Screw that.

 

Dug another manifold out of parts stash. Same style with the secondary air injection pipes. I did not want the same fight I've already had with these things.

 

So I put the whole thing in a fire.

 

 

Then removed it periodically to hose it with pb blaster. It worked pretty well. I got every single threaded thing to come out, with one exception. One of the secondary injection nuts just rounded off. So I hit it with the grinder, then welded another nut to it with tons of heat. Couple hard taps with a hammer on my ratchet and it busted loose and came right out. None of the crap i dealt with last time.

 

The remains of the gaskets come off really easily when they are hot, so bonus there.

 

 

Look a chimney!

 

 

The collector area on this one isn't pretty, but after heating it and scraping it, its way better than the first manifold. I'm going to block sand it to "machine" it back to clean and smooth though.

[Draker]

Never thought of doing that to extract a bolt... but great idea if you don't have a torch! Good work.