Jump to content

Half Pint - Z22 swapped 510 goon

Recommended Posts

Teaser! More pics further down :)




Meet Half Pint, my 1971 510 wagon. She is not in very good shape, but I feel great about her and the price I paid. All the glass and trim is intact, only real cancer is in the passenger floor pan and passenger fender, and the back seat is ok, and the tires are brand new, but that's about where the good news ends. Wiring had been hacked apart and redone in random red and yellow bits. Dash pad is trashed, interior wiring is hacked and pulled all over the place. Front seats are missing and seat cross members pulled out, with some random 80s import seats just thrown in, bolted to nothing. Engine bay is empty, no engine or trans.


On to the pics!


These are from the ad when I purchased it.







  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post

More pics!


Getting her loaded the day I bought her. The cheesy dude in the driver's seat is me :) From here she went to stay on my buddy's property for a while until I could get her all the way home.




Yay following her home!




About two weeks before I bought her, I found an L18 from a 620 for sale for cheap not too far from me. I decided it was cheap enough I didn't need a good reason to buy it, helluvit was plenty good reason. So I bought it :). Since this car has no engine it seemed like a good place to start. It's compete with starter, alternator, carb, even ignition coil, plus it's attached to a 4 speed trans.




  • Like 4

Share this post

Link to post

Is it in yet?








Blah blah she said

  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post

That was all in April. I just got her towed home yesterday. Since my buddy didn't have time to bring it to me on his tow truck, I decided a tow bar was my best bet.


Since I store my cars on gravel, but like to work on them on my driveway, the custom fitted tow bar would make moving the 510 in and out of the work area a breeze.

After starting a discussion on here I was given a great idea on an easy way to build one (Thanks quik510!). It's a pretty thick piece of box tube that bolts directly to the factory bumper brackets and to a harbor freight tow bar.









It towed freaking awesome. I love flat towing. This wasn't the first car I've towed this way. To keep the steering wheel from turning, I ratchet strapped it in place. This makes for some wide turns, but it worked fine.




That 1996 (R50) Pathfinder is my daily driver. She's about to get a lightly refreshed "new" engine put in her. When I got her, I picked her up from a mechanic who said she needed a new engine. She had a decent bottom end knock and the low oil pressure light was on. I changed the oil to 15-40 Delo, with a can of seafoam and a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer in the mix. Knock ceased after 5 seconds. Low oil light turned off after a couple minutes and hasn't been an issue since. That was two years ago. But she blows a cloud of smoke on startup, sometimes for as much as 2 minutes and still knocks pretty good for the first few seconds (not vg valve clatter, but scary my engine is dying clatter). So now she is about to get a heart transplant. Hopefully next week.


Here's more random pics I took once the car was home.




This hangy thing is attached to the hood pop cable. That's clearly not factory design...




So sad and empty




Scary wiring... but I have a plan in mind









  • Like 3

Share this post

Link to post







Front passenger fender rust



Passenger floor board rust



Driver floor board and random wiring







No pics of door cards, they are piled in the back. And no rear seat pic because it is folded down with this on top of it.






A complete 1982 Z22 with 5 speed from a 2wd 720. Running with bad head gasket. I pulled it out of the truck myself after seeing how it ran. There is a pretty good story behind my getting this engine trans setup, but that will have to be told on a different day. I also pulled the entire truck wiring harness from headlights to taillights because of how scary my wagon wiring is. In fact, my first project question is posted in the Electrical section with reference to that harness. Find it here - http://community.ratsun.net/topic/66799-82-720-radio-wiring-color-identification/?do=findComment&comment=1269352




Here it is piled in the back of my pathfinder.

  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post

More to come! But kind of slowly, as I'm also working on my pathfinder, my 720 needs a new headgasket, and I'm in the middle of a complete engine rebuild on my KA24E for my 1990 S13 hatchback. Also finishing up the 5 lug swap on that car and finishing one fabrication project for my son and starting on another. Too many irons in the fire!


I hope you guys like tangents, because this is my favorite forum, so this thread will likely wander through everything I'm doing. But hey, it's almost all Nissan, if that helps :)

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post

Nice goon, looks like a bit of work ahead of you.



I've flat towed a lot of cars and never once locked the steering wheel, my tow bar instructions stated to unlock the steering wheel so the wheels can steer through the turns. Just an FYI :)

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post

You have options here.


L18 and 4 speed. The 71B is longer than the stock 510 4 speed but much stronger. You will need a 510 oil pan and pick up tube.


L18 and 5 speed. (same as above plus..) Swap 4 speed front case onto Z22 5 speed to convert it to L series and go.


Z22 and 5 speed. Need a car Z series oil pan, truck pan won't work.


LZ22 hybrid or Frankenmotor. Use Z22 block/crank/rods and pistons. Need L20B timing cover chain etc for front of block, 510 oil pan, L series engine brackets, an L20B head (U67 preferably) That L18 exhaust will also work on it. Also known as a stroker engine. 2.2 liters and 9.8 compression about 120 hp. Convert the Z22 5 speed to an L 5 speed (see above)

Share this post

Link to post

Redeye, thanks for the tip.


Mike, thanks for the excellent summary of my options.


Couple LZ22 questions -


Engine brackets - just L series, or specifically 510? I have the 620 L18 brackets on that engine.


Head - I have an A87 head on my L18. I'm sure it's an open chamber head, but have no proof of that. Comparing U67 head against my A87, it looks like the intake ports are smaller on mine and the exhaust valves could be smaller. Are these differences actually significant enough to justify the cost off another head? I don't race, I rarely take engines above 5k for any reason, I'm just a cruiser type driver.

Share this post

Link to post

510 brackets would be best to start with but the 620 L18 brackets are better than none. The L18 and L16 are the same dimensions. An L20B or Z22 block is 2cm (3/4") taller so you might have to oval the holes to lower the engine.

Share this post

Link to post

I love that green

Share this post

Link to post

Thanks tr8er. Shes going to keep that patina for a good while.


My step dad and I both drive 720s, and yesterday we bought a parts truck together. Runs solid, only 143k on the clock, no title. 1984 z24 4x4. I get the engine (among other things) to replace the blown head gasket and otherwise tired z24 that is currently in my truck. The point of this being that there is now a spare Z24 engine hanging around that I can throw in to this mix... I might have a hoarding problem.

Share this post

Link to post

Tangent ahead!


Spent some time working on projects for my son. I finished up his wagon for the most part. I want to stencil and patina "slam wagon" on the back in a radio flyer type script and paint the wheels, I'm thinking of using aluminum color engine paint, just a nice generic metallic grey.


Before I got the steering on.






Finished wagon










Also put in some time on his power wheels. Bought him an FJ Cruiser at the thrift store for ten bucks, fixed it, but I'm not a fan of the pretty pink Disney princess theme.




Going for a Donatello/ teenage mutant ninja turtles theme. Body will be gloss black up to the belt line, then purple above. Rims are bright green. Bumpers and fender flares are rhino lined. Also lined the floor and the wheel wells so they weren't pink behind the tires.














That's as far as I got today. Hoping to finish most the painting tomorrow. Not sure though as I'm also thinking of pulling the engine out of my daily driver pathfinder and cleaning the engine bay before putting in the new engine. We shall see.


On the wagon front, just for now to get it running, I'm thinking Z22. I know it ran great before the head gasket issue, so I'm going to try just stapling it back together with a new gasket and see if that works.


I will either find a car oil pan and flip the crossmember or follow Brodster and build a custom pan. I'm cheap, and that kinda seems fun. Maybe I'll build a custom front sump and still flip the crossmember. That is undecided.

  • Like 5

Share this post

Link to post

Yay, I got the bumper overriders off my front bumper today. That's about all on the 510.


Finished my sons power wheels Monday. Then ripped the engine out of my 96 Pathfinder on Tuesday. Finished working on the new engine I had for it on Wednesday. Got it back in yesterday and finished getting it running today. I usually enjoy the work, but that engine installation was pure suck. It was two steps forward then three steps back the entire time. Plus the weather was either pouring rain (or hailing) or stupid hot. Yay this week! And I have another pathfinder engine I still need to install.

Share this post

Link to post

Real progress was made on Half Pint today. I stretched out the 2wd 720 harness in my garage this afternoon and started going through it and labeling everything. If I thought I would not be using the connector, I went through and labeled every wire on the connector. I probably spent around 4 hours or so today working through the harness. I printed off a PDF of the wiring diagram, grabbed a beverage, and sat myself on the floor. It didn't cover everything, so there are some pictures and questions posted below, maybe someone has some better info than I do and can tell me what these are.


The basic plan is to rip most of the wiring out of my wagon and replace it with a decent condition wiring harness I pulled out of a 1982 720 extra cab, same truck I pulled my Z22 out of. If you look at my first pics, you can see that both inside and out, the wires are just run randomly all over the place and half of it is yellow. There isn't a keyed ignition switch, just a push button starter that isn't even fully connected.


It is factory wired for only one speaker to the radio, so I'm going to cut a radio harness and a little wiring out of something in the junkyard. I will then just add an extra connector to the dash harness and wire speakers from that out to the car. One of the things I'm happiest about using this harness is that it is pre wired for most of the amenities I want to add to my car. It has all the wiring for a 720 A/C setup, it has the wiring for the clock, tach, and the oil and volt meters, all of which I want to install in some form. I have a set of 720 volt and oil gauges that will be installed somewhere in the car.


Dash sub harness - the gauge bezel connectors and radio harness are labeled on each wire, since I figure I will have to swap out to connect properly to the gauges.






More of the labeled harness




I had to splice one section of the harness back together. Tested resistance, looks good on every wire. Then I protected each of the splices and taped everything back up.




I ran out this evening and did a quick test fit of the engine bay harness to see if it worked. I could not have asked for better. The 720 harness fits the 510 engine bay like it was meant to be there. I followed what I assume was the factory routing across the bottom of the engine bay.




Pass side




Driver side




This pic sucks but really that 720 firewall grommet is sitting about 4 inches shy of the firewall the way I laid it out. I'm pretty sure that if I route the wiring under the battery tray, instead of around the front of its legs, it will be a perfect fit. If not, I guess I could cut some holes in the strut tower right along the fender and pass it straight through like a tunnel through a mountain side.




And now the questions.

Light green and light green w/ red stripe. I think it might be ac related? It's under the dash and was taped down, unused.




Red w/black and red w/blue. Right next to the connector above, under the dash, by the fan switch connectors.




Blue and black w/white, pretty sure it's on the inside, but don't actually remember right now...




I also got some pics of the TMNT power wheels I just finished painting and fixing for my son. DONATELLO!!!







  • Like 4

Share this post

Link to post

Been crazy busy this past week working on my step dad's 720.  I revived my old truck thread, renamed it 720 shenanigans, and now I'll be loading it with crap I'm doing to his truck, my truck, and our shared parts truck.  Come check it out.



Share this post

Link to post

Knocked out a little bit of work on Half Pint. I pulled out the rats nest of wiring from under the hood and the dash and threaded my 720 harness through the firewall and around the engine bay. Fits nicely, snug but not too tight. However, as I was messing with it, I decided I might try to tuck it a little. So I pulled off my fender to get an idea of what I might like to do. Since the fender was off, I took a crack at beating out the major dents. It definitely looks better, but I'm no metal master. Lots more work to do if I want it to even approach decent. Passes a 30 ft test, that's about all.









  • Like 3

Share this post

Link to post

I routed the 720 wiring harness under the dashboard and over to the steering column. Still a ridiculous amount of work to do, but at least the basic fitment is pretty good. And the 720 and the 510 harness both have a connector in about the same place for the front harness to connect to the rest of the body. Looking at the diagrams, it will be super easy to just put the correct connectors in and hook it up. I won't need to mess with body harness at all. So far I'm still happy about my choice to try using this harness.


I also got the goon in to my back yard and off the street. Now it's hanging out with my 720 and my sil80.



  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post

Working my way through the wiring diagrams right now. Lots of de-pinning/re-pinning on connectors to be done. Still confident this is going to work out fine. The 720 runs headlights and wipers from the column, the 510 had them on the dash, so I'm pulling apart the column harness to relocate the wiring. The wires are all wrapped through each other, so I have to depin the connectors just to separate the bits I need. It's progress though.

Share this post

Link to post

Does anyone have any detail pics of the drivers side dashboard on a 71 or 72 (or other matching) 510? Mine is stripped bare (courtesy of PO) and I am not sure what goes where, as in wiper switch, headlights, hazards, etc. The only part I'm really sure of is that the key is on the left side of the column.

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post

Progress continues slowly. I have worked out the wiring to gauge cluster (I think). I have everything accounted for, but have yet to hook it up and see if I got it right. I just have the basic gauge set with idiot lights, so I'm planning to take a spare 720 tach I have and see if I can cut a circle out of the center between the idiot lights and mount that tach in there.


I've also found a dash mounted knob style wiper switch that has an adjustable intermittent function. Since my 720 wiring harness has that function built in, I want to make use of it if possible, but I also want it to look stock. I haven't gotten the switch yet, so I don't even know if size wise it will fit. Pics and more to come.

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post

I hooked everything up and connected the harness to gauges. I have a 12V power source that plugs in to the wall that I haven't finished putting together. It supply's power but I had to alligator clip it together. When done it will have banana jack connectors on it.




I tested everything down at the end of my dash sub harness. I tested all the idiot lights, both the temp and fuel gauges, high beam indicator, and dash illumination. In short, I tested everything. It works!




Are everyone's dash lights this sad?




Once I had confirmed that I had wired everything correctly, I made it all permanent. I'm a fan of both crimping and soldering when I hook stuff together. I take the metal centers out of butt connectors, crimp the wires, then solder that connection.




A quick touch of torch flame softens the plastic.




Push it with something and it slides right out.




Then just crimp, solder, tape (cuz I'm out of heat shrink), and done. Not actually sure it's better in any way, but it's my preferred method :)

  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post

Cut the center out of my idiot light panel and retro fitted a tach from an 84 720 in to it. I still have some finish work to do, but I think it turned decent.




The gauge looks OK. It doesn't match as well as I thought it would but since this was free and what scratch i have I won't be spending on an original tach. Here s a quick test fit in the car.




It needs a clear cover over it now, like the factory tach has. Gotta figure out how to attach it...

  • Like 3

Share this post

Link to post

And paint the needle orange to match the speedo needle. But that's just me. Looks nice in there

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.