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3D printerama or why I need to stop cluttering up other threads


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Not really impressed with the abs. Had a much greater risk of warping and made the room smell like I had immolated a minifig. I'll try the acetone smoothing and see how it works.

 

1D2F4F8D-9815-4BA2-80C9-C4976CF967EC_zps

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I am impressed and a bit jealous as I'm an avid modeller and would lo e to be able to print out some parts and cast them in resin. Though designing and having to wait for the printing to happen, in most cases, I could carve out a piece from scratch much quicker.

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So this took some work hotswapping the filament while the machine ran but it came out really nice. White is PLA, red and black are ABS.

 

C39E6ECA-6696-4274-BE41-26F8086FBD28_zps

 

8860A574-985D-420F-B909-3016DB801825_zps

 

8AC5EBE9-3B80-494A-BA72-415B5756D595_zps

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Sort of a failure actually, but I was testing some new ideas. This one still has some bugs to iron out.

 

Designed a new model based on pics of the OEM one. Did a quick test print at high speed (50mins vs 2hrs with very low fill of 10%).

 

However, the slicing program mangled the letters a bit, but the overall effect came through. A few software tweaks and maybe some silver filament and I should have it nailed. So not perfect but for a quicky test print on a new model not to shabby. Also tested using a PLA base with ABS overlay for a large section to resist warping. That worked amazingly well so I'll be using that going forward.

 

12a7ee8a-ad15-474d-ae52-a80d44ed8aea_zps

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59ABF187-E429-4DC5-9521-AB72A1833B03_zps

 

Probably need a tiny bit of cleanup still. Made 10 (+1 prototype) of these to take to the bbq but then didn't end up going. If I make more I'll probably wait an additional layer before I switch color, to prevent some of the minor grey stringers. Other thoughts are to do a bigger size (~200mm width) or different colors, or even add in the rising sun background. These were just a quicky.

 

I'm running one on my main keychain to test for durability. The text is actually taken from a cellphone photo of the sticker on my windshield.

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Ok, that makes sense. For some reason when I read that it just got interpreted way differently.

 

Those look too big for the standard 8x8 build platform, though.

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I need a damn 410 tailight ,,,,,,,,,,, make me one. :rofl:

 

Red plastic is a chancy bet unlikely to be a lasting 3D printer output!  Almost all red dyes soon turn Pink of White under UV sunlight!  That's why the original 1920s red lenses used colloidal Gold infused glass just like the Medieval church stained glass windows!  Most after market "barguin" lenses wouldn't last long enough for the parent company to declair bankruptcy.  Or whatever the Taiwan / Hong Kong / Myanmar equivant is.  Singapore is too expensive.

 

Bottom line - unless the 3D printer uses UV resistant ink dyes, you will have a "backup" lens in about 2 years.  Invest in red dyed bulbs.

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Red plastic is a chancy bet unlikely to be a lasting 3D printer output!  Almost all red dyes soon turn Pink of White under UV sunlight!  That's why the original 1920s red lenses used colloidal Gold infused glass just like the Medieval church stained glass windows!  Most after market "barguin" lenses wouldn't last long enough for the parent company to declair bankruptcy.  Or whatever the Taiwan / Hong Kong / Myanmar equivant is.  Singapore is too expensive.

 

Bottom line - unless the 3D printer uses UV resistant ink dyes, you will have a "backup" lens in about 2 years.  Invest in red dyed bulbs.

This is actually where a silicone mold would be better, as you could use a clear urethane with UV stable dye to cast the light. I personally don't like casting clear resins as in general they tend to have nasty fumes though.

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