the510keeper Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Started this project in March 2013, wow time flies. Actually picked it up then but knew it would not be started for awhile. Chris lives in Socal and we were heading to Eagle Rock so figured we would kill 2 birds 1 stone. Car had been at a body shop down there for sometime and nothing was getting done nor was it getting done right. I don't have many pics of before but a few of now. Trying to wrap up old projects in the shop so this is next to go. We stripped the car chemically and left it to rust Needed a front radiator support, inner left fender well, and a T/C rod mount Chris has some cool GL taillights he also wanted to use. G/L taillights are like bluebird taillights as far as the mods needed. I have done this mod on 4 cars, so no problem. 1 Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Extra clip drilling spot welds This is a repair the other shop did, yep bondo Had to fix the damage to the upper frame 4 Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 The upper frame was pushed down an inch, so I had to heat up the damaged area while lifting the end of the frame with a jack, pushed it right back in place. Found a cherry hood to work with fitment, already had this hood on and off this car 20+ times 6 Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 yet another awesome build that i'm sure to be jealous of. B) Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 installed the radiator support realized shit didn't line up with the hood So I made a red neck frame rack in my booth using the door jambs as solid posts, what a fucking day that was. 3 Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Once I got the hood to fit, I had to make the left side look like the right side, 68s had a spot welded plate not a bump, the 72 inner fender well had a bump. So I shaved it. On to the trunk lid, Its been the straightest part on the car Off to blast the complete car, there is a shop in Medford so I took a 10 hour road trip 5 Quote Link to comment
moath Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 What shop in Medford does the blasting? I never had any luck with sand blasters when I lived there Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 James you make this stuff look so easy and I know its not nice work Quote Link to comment
Anonymous Waffle Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 Very clean and nice work! Amazing how fast you work :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
LAMB Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 You seem to perform magic on things that most people would consider scrap. I look forward to seeing where this goes, very nice work.-Jack Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 Thanks guys more to come Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Some of these steps have been gone over before but for the new guys and gals and the owner, here it goes. Seam sealed with a 2-part seam sealer the trunk area using the factory rubber we pulled (goes between the inner quarter panel and the trunk floor). We salvage the used rubber, clean all the old hard and cracking seam sealer off, clean with lacquer thinner, then scuff with used sand paper. Once ready we seam seal first the gap where the rubber fits into, while seam sealer is wet install the rubber then seam seal over it. Smoothing it with a throw away brush. Of course you need to blow out the crap and vac any remain crap out. Once seam sealed we take a house painting roller and brush and roll and brush a DTM oil enamel chassis paint. The roller helps seal factory gaps in sheet metal. Car came with doors but they needed more work then doors I have, so to save time I used 4 of my doors to make less work. I stripped these sanded them with 80grit on a DA, metal prepped them and sprayed an epoxy reinforced urethane primer surface 3 coats. Ready for the 1st blocking. 4 Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Let me know if this is boring ya all Sealed the inside of the roof and everything 3 Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Next step radiator support welded on, In order to do this successfully you need to bolt up the entire front clip. The back of the hood was limp in the middle, so ez fix is to shove a board under it and lower it down to push the damage in to place. No bad for a poor white boy from Linda :) 6 Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Had to remove this piece to get the inner fender off, now we need to put it back Used a weld through primer on the back side 3 Quote Link to comment
The Taterhead Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 I love seeing tricks people do that I will forget and forget where I saw it when the time comes for me to try it. As always, lookin good. Quote Link to comment
datsunwizard Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Hey James, Does that DTM oil enamel chassis paint come in any other color besides black? Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Comes n all colors Quote Link to comment
datsunwizard Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Thanks for the info, same paint you been using for years ? Benjamin Moore? Quote Link to comment
510T Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Not boring. Keep it up! Love the oics. This car right? http://community.ratsun.net/topic/35149-my-sr20det-datsun-510-build-saga/ Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 This thing had a blown out antenna hole, so we fixed it. And shaved the wiper stubs. Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Also had broken bumper bracket nuts so we welded new ones in to place using 280zx top strut nuts. Same tread pattern and large 17mm head to weld to. Using a bumper bracket to insure there welded in the right place. Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Shaving the wiper stubs Heated the area up to red hot hammer and dolly flat, using a socket make a circle, using a carbide bit duplicate that circle, use same socket and scrap piece of sheet metal cut out a circle and weld that sucker in there welded in this part Fit pretty good considering everything that went on Left side on the hood hinge holes were opened up for a larger bolts so we need them to match the other side, weld them up and make drill em out. Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Got a bunch of old pics on the build, summer 2013 these 2 pics are from previous work that was done on the car. I always wondered how long the paint job would of stayed on Quote Link to comment
DAWOLF Posted September 27, 2015 Report Share Posted September 27, 2015 welded in this partFit pretty good considering everything that went on Morning, have a question. Whats the purpose welding that plate together on the suspension towers and upper side of the car..? It's because the alignment work you did heat torch,stretching and compressing shaping back to its normal place and the plates will hold and give more support to the damage area that was corrected? Quote Link to comment
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