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Chris' 68 4 door bluh bluh bluh Datsun


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Started this project in March 2013, wow time flies. Actually picked it up then but knew it would not be started for awhile.

Chris lives in Socal and we were heading to Eagle Rock so figured we would kill 2 birds 1 stone.

 

Car had been at a body shop down there for sometime and nothing was getting done nor was it getting done right.

 

I don't have many pics of before but a few of now.

Trying to wrap up old projects in the shop so this is next to go.

We stripped the car chemically and left it to rust

 

Needed a front radiator support, inner left fender well, and a T/C rod mount

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Chris has some cool GL taillights he also wanted to use.

 

G/L taillights are like bluebird taillights as far as the mods needed. I have done this mod on 4 cars, so no problem.

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The upper frame was pushed down an inch, so I had to heat up the damaged area while lifting the end of the frame with a jack, pushed it right back in place.

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Found a cherry hood to work with fitment, already had this hood on and off this car 20+ times

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Once I got the hood to fit, I had to make the left side look like the right side, 68s had a spot welded plate not a bump, the 72 inner fender well had a bump.

So I shaved it.

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On to the trunk lid, Its been the straightest part on the car

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Off to blast the complete car, there is a shop in Medford so I took a 10 hour road trip

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Some of these steps have been gone over before but for the new guys and gals and the owner, here it goes.

Seam sealed with a 2-part seam sealer the trunk area using the factory rubber we pulled (goes between the inner quarter panel and the trunk floor).

We salvage the used rubber, clean all the old hard and cracking seam sealer off, clean with lacquer thinner, then scuff with used sand paper.

Once ready we seam seal first the gap where the rubber fits into, while seam sealer is wet install the rubber then seam seal over it. Smoothing it with a throw away brush. Of course you need to blow out the crap and vac any remain crap out.

 

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Once seam sealed we take a house painting roller and brush and roll and brush a DTM oil enamel chassis paint. The roller helps seal factory gaps in sheet metal.

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Car came with doors but they needed more work then doors I have, so to save time I used 4 of my doors to make less work.

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I stripped these sanded them with 80grit on a DA, metal prepped them and sprayed an epoxy reinforced urethane primer surface 3 coats. Ready for the 1st blocking.

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Next step radiator support welded on,

 

In order to do this successfully you need to bolt up the entire front clip.

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The back of the hood was limp in the middle, so ez fix is to shove a board under it and lower it down to push the damage in to place.

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No bad for a poor white boy from Linda :)

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Shaving the wiper stubs

Heated the area up to red hot hammer and dolly flat, using a socket make a circle, using a carbide bit duplicate that circle, use same socket and scrap piece of sheet metal cut out a circle and weld that sucker in there

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welded in this part

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Fit pretty good considering everything that went on

 

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Left side on the hood hinge holes were opened up for a larger bolts so we need them to match the other side, weld them up and make drill em out.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

welded in this part20150702_171345_resized%201_zpsdpa4wyxq.20150702_165152_resized_zpsasoys21d.jpgFit pretty good considering everything that went on20150702_165201_resized_zpsdni8g3zy.jpg20150704_155428_resized_zpsijgkqs9p.jpg

Morning, have a question. Whats the purpose welding that plate together on the suspension towers and upper side of the car..? It's because the alignment work you did heat torch,stretching and compressing shaping back to its normal place and the plates will hold and give more support to the damage area that was corrected?

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