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distributorguy

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Brian Rebello likes to use Adaptronic and their street and race engines. I had him set up an engine for me a couple years ago with Adaptronic.

 

My 1991 Taurus SHO with the Yamaha engine has dual length runners with a valve hat opened the second set at a certain RPM. The sound changed drastically when the valve was actuated.

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There is no set 'ideal' pressure for injectors.

99% of all aftermarket injectors rated flow rates are done at 45 psi, but can be run either side of that pressure to achieve the flow rate needed for the job.

RC Engineering, who for a long time been the go-to source for performance injectors, has an online calculator for figuring what pressure to use to get to one's required fuel delivery.

The higher the pressure, the better the atomization is.

I have seen very quick imports that run upwards of 75 psi, while a lot of stock imports run as low as 35 psi, so they don't require a high $$ fuel pump to keep production costs down.

The new Bosch EV14 injectors are way more precise than anything before them, making it easier to achieve clean fuel delivery, even down to very short pulse widths, but still deliver sufficient fuel needed for high boost pressure, and at the same time do timed injection while the intake is open, but not before, or after.

 

You can throw out the old idea of sizing injectors to run no more than 85% on time at max power.

With the old injector design, it was unwise to go beyond that point, as the injector could not respond quick enough, so unreliable delivery would result.

 

Fast may be good for Detroit pig-iron V8s, but they are not even in the ball park for truly high performance engines.

To me, Fast is just junk that people like Summit, and Jegs throw into their catalogue for non-gear heads to throw on their small block, and gets them a system that they can bolt on to their 5000 rpm street engine, and they never have to worry about getting their fingers stinky changing jets.

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The SHO was a pretty cool car.  Ford did a good job with it, had they made the transmissions a bit stronger...

 

The ideal pressure for an injector is high enough pressure to get really good atomization and no more.  Excess fuel pressure tends to just circulate and heat the fuel.  We're using injectors that were designed for Mercury Marine, good atomization in the low 40's, and that keeps our pulse widths in the range we want. 

 

Fast - we had computer memory issues along with performance related issues.  Never again.  It was "cutting edge" many years ago, but in my opinion worse than OBD1.    

Adaptronic is actually really slow at 400 Hz.  And expensive for what you actually get.  I know nothing however about the user interface, which may be the draw???  

 

I don't think Darren in Australia moved the intake valve.  He moved the entire head on the block by elongating the head stud holes and centered the valves in the cylinder, then enlarged the valve.  Otherwise the valvetrain geometry gets messed up and you potentially lose lift by shifting the rocker arm fulcrum.  

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3 minutes ago, distributorguy said:

I don't think Darren in Australia moved the intake valve.  He moved the entire head on the block by elongating the head stud holes and centered the valves in the cylinder, then enlarged the valve.  Otherwise the valvetrain geometry gets messed up and you potentially lose lift by shifting the rocker arm fulcrum.  

 

 

He did.  I can ask him again. We are buddies I chat with him from time to time.  He told me the story about all the ralley car guys saying there was no more power to be made with an L.  Then he did that and smoked them all! haha.  He said he made custom roller rockers too.     

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This is the shop that I seen making L-series roller rockers: http://wesengines.com.au/

But the link to the page he had for them is dead, so he may not be doing it any longer.

It was back in the spring of 2016 that I had found them.

You may just try contacting him.

Now I'm pissed because I didn't even save a picture of them.

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On 8/29/2019 at 5:10 AM, G-Duax said:

This is the shop that I seen making L-series roller rockers: http://wesengines.com.au/

But the link to the page he had for them is dead, so he may not be doing it any longer.

It was back in the spring of 2016 that I had found them.

You may just try contacting him.

Now I'm pissed because I didn't even save a picture of them.


Tip: There is always "The Wayback Machine" that you can use to look at old versions of websites.

Use the top to navigate though the 19 different versions of the site to see if The Wayback Machine captured the pictures you're looking for:
https://web.archive.org/web/20140516233803/http://wesengines.com.au/

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Would need longer, shallower ramps on the cam lobes, so the opening/closing would not be so violent.

 

An another note, prayers for the family of Jessi Combs, killed this past week trying to break the LSR in a jet car in Oregon.

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Rollers have a very narrow contact point on the cam surface than a flat rocker arm. You can increase the ramp on the lobe and open the valve faster and sooner even though the duration, lift and valve opening and closing points are the same as a 'flat tappet cam. 

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The Datsun rockers also have a very narrow contact patch with the cam, so the only difference is friction loss, plus the stock rockers disperse pressure a little better with around a 50% larger contact patch.  Datsuns aren't like an in-block cam arrangement.  The rocker pads are arced, so you're not trying to ride a flat tappet across the cam surface.  My cam already looks like a roller cam design, if not more abrupt than most.  The lobes are nearly rectangular in shape, with a nice entry/exit ramp.  

 

It looks like I'll have a little break in the engine build.  A project was dropped in my lap that needs dire attention.  1967 Rolls, needs a full hydraulic system rebuild (suspension and brakes).  

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You can also hold the valve open longer with a roller style lobe.  What's even more interesting is you can't really use either "style" on these motors with an overhead cam very effectively.  Shops like Isky and Schneider have developed a specific lobe style for performance overhead cams using rocker arms - call it a hybrid between the two.  Its the only way to get massive lift without bounce or the destruction of the rocker arms, valve tips, lash pads, or most importantly the cam lobes.  

 

My crankshaft will likely be done sometime between today and Monday.  Yesterday we hashed out specs.  I gave him 2 tenths to play with on a custom offset grind and index.  No pressure. )👍

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Just got the stroked and balanced L18 crank back from the grinder.  It'll get coated in-house to shed oil, plus paint the back of the lightened and balanced flywheel.  Then off to making bearings shims for the mains on the block.  I'll use the L18 caps so I'll only need to capture 1 bearing spacer and they can't spin.  Then the block goes to get line bored/honed.  After the crank is in place, I'll be designing pistons, or using what Rebello has to offer, plus a mod or 2.  Deck height should land pretty much where it was before but I need to verify.  Then I have a new trick I'd like to incorporate in the piston design.  Hopefully JE or CP can pull it off???  I hope to have the short block done before the new year, then focus on the head until Spring.  

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I just attended the USFRA World of Speed event to drive a friends Bonneville car, a converted Nascar late model that he had planned to be a 150 club car.

 Things didn't go as well as expected but I did get to drive the salt and had a great experience, definitely a bucket list item. I did walk the pits hopeful of seeing a Datsun pickup.

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