73 Datsun 620 As My First

[Brandana]

a 73 is early 620 and is simple..

 

P{oints or a convert electric ignition

Yeah I'm gonna look into that now due to one of the points popping up from its spot when it got a little bumpy one time in the past.

[Brandana]

loved the anime, I think I started reading the Manga but didn't get very far, life got in the way. It's a very distinctive skull, and is everywhere in the anime

Yeah I'm not to fond of manga due to that reason so I just watch the shows of anime for convinence.

[banzai510(hainz)]

OK put key on.

should get 12volts on the blk wht wire going to the ballast resisitor. at least with the points open. I forget put you can open the points with your hand. Still might get 12volts with points closed but its the battery voltage your reading.  OK now with key ON

 

If no voltage then swap out the ignition fuse.. 12 volts comes from the fusebox to the keyswitch  then to the coil. Simple. trace it out if bad.

 

If you get 12voltw most likely the points is grounded out or loose condensor or soemthing of that nature.

 

One can use a test light. Clamp the aligator end on the dist tab that the wire was hooked to. then take the pointy one and put to the + side battery. than start the car . When the points is closed the test light will light up to complete the circut as the dist is grounded  then when points open the test lamp will go out. this shows a working point distributor.  If working this will tell the coil to fire if the coil has power to it and WORKS.

 

This is a 15min job!!!!!!!!!

[Brandana]

Yeah I'll recheck it some time soon. Most likely this weekend. Man if I really missed something really simple again. Well, it won't be the last time.

[Brandana]

Ok so I hooked up a test light and whipped out the multi tester to show my results.

 

With the key OFF.

With the key ON

With the + end on the other side of the resistor.

With the + to the + end of the igniton coil.

With both ends of the light connected to the ignition coil while cranking.

Multi meter voltage testing on both ends of the external resistor.

Ohms reading of the primary resistance of the ignition coil.

Ohms reading of the secondary resistance of the igniton coil.

I also found out that my heater relay was completley fried.

All the parts should be good. I even swapped out the external resistor back to the old one and nothing. Everything looks to be connected everywhere that I've looked, except of course the heater relay part. I'm sure I'm missing something obvious here, its just that I don't see it.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Well when I mean a test light Im talking the little ones with the pointy end and alligator clip. I don't know how much current it take to make a H4 lamp to go ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WTF.but looks like it works.

 

I think the coil is fine. 1.8ohm will work.

The 11.6 volts looks OK. I would think the voltage would drop below the resisitor on the coil side but that might still be OK. what ohm is the ballast resisitor?  should be about 1.6 ohms or close to it.. What I remember it should drop half to like 9 or even less like 6 volts..

 

Maybe its the wrong resisitor and the points burnt up. Is my 1st guess.

 

To me the ignition look fine. Ck the distributor inside.

 

You can use your test light and put one side to the positive battery and the other to the tab on the dist what hooks up to the points and when you crank the motor the points should open close and the test lamp will flash if good. the distributor is grounded.

 

 

that burnt wire stuff should not affect the running of the truck (I think)

[banzai510(hainz)]

I cked my 521 and my ballast drops about half the voltage.

 

ck the points. It might get half the drop when points closed.

 

Maybe points burnt up and its open that's why you don't see a voltage drop cause there is not current actually flowing in the circut

[red13]

That heater choke relay is crap. There are upgraded,version out there,but theu are hard to find. You can get a basic relay to swap in and wire to match. Or get a later heater choke relay and,resolder the wire connections to,theAt

[Brandana]

Yeah I'm gonna try again tonight. As for that heater relay I looked up the same thing where others use general relays that match and work. I'll do that when I'm driving again though.

[banzai510(hainz)]

read post #28 again and do the test lamp ck on the distributor.

 

You say no spark from center coil right.  the points are open when you got 11.64&11.62 volts.   close the points. then youll see a voltage drop close to half the aamount.

 

You even Gap the points?????

 

Its right there in the distributor if you getting no Spark. the dist tells the coil to fire. your getting power to it.

Unless your not gettin spark when Key is in START.

the + coil side will have 2 wires. Pull the starter wire so you dont crank.

Then but the voltt meter on the +coilwire (should be 2 wires) put to START. If 12volt then your good. 100 % its the distributor your proplem. llose screw soemthing

 

This is a 5 min ck . Hopefull this wont take another page of awnsers

[Brandana]

Ok. Yeah. I'm dumb. So I had my master mechanic come on over and help me out. I'm good with stuff like rebuilding a carb (suprisingly). Ok so we recheck some spark at the ignition coil so he could see for himself whats what. After showing him what you said Banzai510 he wanted to check out the distributor. We cranked the dizzy and lo and behold. The points didn't move at all. Now I know that they have always been touching previously (to the best of my knowledge) even though I knew that points should have a gap, yet I never thought twice about it due to not wanting anything to go wrong. My buddy on the other hand thought differently, moved them so the had there 0.020 in. gap and it started. It started good too with little to no hesitation.

 

I still don't understand how the dizzy sends spark to the ignition coil, but I can't deny that that is the truth anymore. I'm sorry if I sound dumb, but I haven't fixed everything yet on here so there's still more learning to do ya know.

 

Thank you so much Banzai. Thank you Hobo. Thank you Red. I can finally drive my loud ass 620! Next thing though is fixing my flat, getting some gas and towing it back home when something else goes wrong with it again.

 

Thank you guys so much seriously. Even my buddies who have to put up with me on the daily haha.

[banzai510(hainz)]

change the fuel filter often on these things. So you dont suck up rust and plugg that carb.

 

when the point closes the coil get electrified. then when points open the electromatic pulse on the 2ndary side wants to find a ground , this is thru the plug wire to spark plug.

 

 

YOU TIME THIS!??????????

 

 

Last 620 had this same issue and out of timming.  I just put a Pertronix ignition on there and should be good for a few years

[Brandana]

I'll keep the fuel in mind for sure. I can't believe what was in my 280zx so anything in the 620 wouldn't suprise me.

 

As for the spark thing, that actually clears a bit up on how that works.

 

Yeah I timed it some time ago, but it's in need of another timing for sure, and I'm going to look into a electronic ignition which I'll be looking into that Pertronix igniton.

[banzai510(hainz)]

open up the dist and take a photo of it.

 

I can tell if the Pertronix will fit.

 

 

dont be lazy change out the fuel filter

[Brandana]

Wow. Over 2 years ago. Well I want to close this with the fact that I found the distributor itself to be the source of the problem. Well I never got a new one and just decided to sell the vehicle. I honestly don't regret selling the truck because of all the headaches and space it gave and took, but instead moved on to the other car I had stowed away which was a '81 Datsun 280zx, n/a, 5 speed, coupe with T-Tops. I may start project build post later on here, or maybe not. I get lazy and just work on the damn thing without much documentation these days. Well for anyone who helped out before, I thank you all and I've learned a lot since then. I however, have not learned if the guy who bought it from me got it running or not.