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Monster NL320 4x4 Build


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I did a quick hookup of the Temp Gauge line, just need the oil pressure done next and tie wrap the lines cozily.

 

We are an outdoor type of family and I got 3 healthy boys and a girl to raise, Id like to grow some corn and grapes, few other berry types.

 

Need some chickens and goats too.... 10 acres is perfect, family has 40acres in Bend.

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Kids helped spray some paint and also helped mount the gauges, twin 3yo boys enjoyed it alot :)

 

My excuse is I need it for Hemp clothing and also the corn for Ethanol, I promise I dont drink or smoke my profits officers!

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yes to all except the private sales part. No money in private sales so I hear..  can just go buy it at the store though. Same with Oregon.

 

When registering the truck in OR in a non-emissions test area, do they do a VIN check on the 63?  If so I have to slap her back on the original frame.

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When registering the truck in OR in a non-emissions test area, do they do a VIN check on the 63?  If so I have to slap her back on the original frame.

Only if it was titled out of state previously.

 

I'm not sure where all the vin plates are located on an NL. If you have a engine bay and dash vin plate, that should be enough.

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Its from here in Cali, and my engine bay tag is missing, but I have title and frame matching VIN, anyone have a blank Datsun Plaque?  I think I seen some about 12 years ago on Ebay.

 

I'm figuring out the wiring on the truck now, how many conductors to run through my harness and keeping it simple and sealed from water from Crawling.

 

 

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On 7/10/2018 at 5:53 AM, nl320what said:

Its from here in Cali, and my engine bay tag is missing, but I have title and frame matching VIN, anyone have a blank Datsun Plaque?  I think I seen some about 12 years ago on Ebay.

 

I'm figuring out the wiring on the truck now, how many conductors to run through my harness and keeping it simple and sealed from water from Crawling.

 

 

 

Take a look here:

 

http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php

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It can be a recreation of the original as they do become lost and faded, it does happen on these as they are held in by 4 philips screws on the 320.

 

I used to see them on Ebay, but when they changed the guidelines it was to rid of possible fraudulent use.

 

Thanks for the link, I found another: https://www.alumaphoto-plateco.com/products/vin-tag-replacement.html

 

 

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I ran the truck up to operating temp yesterday and the 180 fail safe thermostat works fine, right at 188 deg it opens.

 

Im running a points dizzy and with the 10:1 compression motor on propane, I can push the base advance to 11 degrees @ idle.

 

Keep in mind its an early 22R, I try not to mention the non-Nissan bits in detail.

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3 hours ago, q-tip said:

Drop an L motor in it, you get the same horsepower and it's lighter and more efficient.

When I drop it back on the original NL320 frame later on, I will be using a J-series drivetrain.

But the 22R is a bulletproof motor used in everything, even RV's, 2.4L and tons of torque, cheap, plentiful, and Fuel Injection is common, plus its a cross flow head.

 

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Its been a fun project for the kids and me, my oldest is 9yo and my others are 8yo, and twin 3yo.  They all were outside with me as babies in a stroller and had tools in hand while I worked.

 

A lot this is from previous other vehicles I had done and kept important parts from that work good.

 

Teaching them that if its metal you can make virtually anything, and then cut it off and start over again.

 

Its funny when I cut my 320 firewall out and put the Toyota one in so everything bolts up, the Datsun team gasps! Its metal, I can cut it back out and tig the old one back in.

 

 

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On 7/13/2018 at 5:56 AM, q-tip said:

Drop an L motor in it, you get the same horsepower and it's lighter and more efficient.

L motors have far fewer, actually zero, options for transfer case adaptability. I've thought about this many times, but the fact is, to bolt up a good t-case to an L motor, it would need the T-5 bellhousing, possibly a Jeep trans, and then you could use a D300 t-case. If it has Toyota components in it already, that's the best bet for having a good crawl ratio.

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The aftermarket conversions in the 80's used Jeep parts to turn 620s into 4x4s and resell as new trucks, it was a semi-divorced transfer case in mine.

 

What is alot simpler is just to use the 720 4x4 trans/xfr case and then fab from there and go what ever axles suit you best for crawling (Toyota 8" and Dana 44 are my fav with lots of ratios and posi units). Or keep the stock trans and get a divorced case, adapt drivelines, assuming your front axle is in and rear axle has comparable ratio, would not need motor or trans mods at all.

 

Stock 22R is 110hp/140tq  and I'm a bit above that with the motor in it, more than plenty for my purpose.

Edited: LCE and tons of others support the 22R/22RE from 1980-1995 which is amazing to me, cant find much for a L20B or Z24 as a comparison. Crank girdles, full Staged Cams/Lifters, Aftermarket heads, turbofolds,  its the Japanese Small Block Chevy.

 

For now this is what I'll have fun in till I move into a new spot, then I'll clean up and powdercoat the original frame and lay it back on with a J13/J15 or possibly a R16/U20 setup.... will be stock 2wd :)

 

There are tons of 2wd/4wd Toyota support and parts made still, its still at the top for racing and off-road use.

Edited by nl320what
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Wiring headlights and turn signals with a simple harness of new pulled teflon wires, probably be done this week so I can drive it out this weekend to finish the paint scheme.

 

I have a pair of 84 Subaru Wagon passenger doors I will re-skin and run them suicide on the truck, they are power and dont have a window frame (easier to custom fit).

 

 

 

 

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