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ITB's on an L20


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Ok first off let me start by saying this well me a slow build :blink: i get payed once a month on a minimum wage job so other things come first,it should take 2 or 3 months maybe 4 but i hope to have it done by the end of the year.

 

this is what we got 75 620 slammed to the ground, L20 with z20s pistons and a fresh going through and a closed chambered head

 

here's the fun stuff

EDIS

megasquirt

and ITB's

 

so today i went to u-pull it (now LKQ) and did some scavenging and got most of the stuff for edis

 

pic092908_8.jpg

 

also today i did some work on the milling machine, i cut up and old mated manifold i had for the flanges. cut them off and then milled them down flat to weld the intake runners to.

 

pic092908_1.jpg

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pic092908_5.jpg

 

did a little welding practice to today

 

pic092908_4.jpg

 

i get payed on the 12th and i will but the itb's i plan to use ,with are off of a gsxr i plan on also using the injectors and the TPS on the megasquirt witch will come next month. this is the unit i plan to get http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirti-programmable-efi-system-pcb30-unassembled-kit-p-46.html i will keep everyone updated on the process and hopefully i can make this all work

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What donor car did you take that EDIS?

What are you gonna be using for the ITB's?

 

I've seen ITB's on L motor using some motorcycle ITB's.

Can't remember from what though.

 

its off an escort and the itb's im using are off a gsxr motorcycle

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This is a very fun project! I set out to do the exact same on my L20b in my first 510. The build thread is here.

 

I got the EDIS finished and drove the car daily with the EDIS and a carb for a few months. I ended up selling it right before the engine was ready to fire because of personal shit going on at the time.

 

I will do it again. I learned a few things along the way. I'm happy to help if you have questions or anything.

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Sounds like a cool idea Brandon. Will it be ready for Canby?

 

not 100% sure but hopefully, if its not i might just trailer it there anyways :cool:

 

 

 

This is a very fun project! I set out to do the exact same on my L20b in my first 510. The build thread is here.

 

I got the EDIS finished and drove the car daily with the EDIS and a carb for a few months. I ended up selling it right before the engine was ready to fire because of personal shit going on at the time.

 

I will do it again. I learned a few things along the way. I'm happy to help if you have questions or anything.

 

what were some of the things you learned? might be helpful on my build :lol:

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what were some of the things you learned? might be helpful on my build :lol:

 

I learned the workings of MegaSquirt batch fire fuel injection, EDIS, etc. is what I meant.

 

I recommend reading everything on the MegaSquirt web site.

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I learned the workings of MegaSquirt batch fire fuel injection, EDIS, etc. is what I meant.

 

I recommend reading everything on the MegaSquirt web site.

 

so if it comes to the time to hook everything up and tune the MS and i get stumped you wanna help me? :D:D

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That's what I'm saying. Start reading now.

 

I'm down to help anyone who is willing to help themselves!

 

i have been reading quite a bit, that's what made me even want to start this i was reading the MS page and it really sparked my interest was it hard to get it up and running?

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My advice is to do it in two stages, which is what I was doing. First get the spark going while still using the carb. It's not incredibly difficult and it makes the overall conversion a little simpler in my opinion. Once the spark is done with the carb, then convert the fuel.

 

As mentioned in my build thread I used a Crown Vic cam sensor for my VR sensor. They are the same thing, with different mounting setup. I found it easier to mount.

 

I pulled the entire EDIS harness section out of an Escort - like 5 feet of it. This eliminated any need for splices in the shielded wires. I had zero issues getting it running on spark. It worked great!

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My advice is to do it in two stages, which is what I was doing. First get the spark going while still using the carb. It's not incredibly difficult and it makes the overall conversion a little simpler in my opinion. Once the spark is done with the carb, then convert the fuel.

 

As mentioned in my build thread I used a Crown Vic cam sensor for my VR sensor. They are the same thing, with different mounting setup. I found it easier to mount.

 

I pulled the entire EDIS harness section out of an Escort - like 5 feet of it. This eliminated any need for splices in the shielded wires. I had zero issues getting it running on spark. It worked great!

 

nice, that what im going to go do no Monday, get everything else i need for the edis, on a side note you still want my short drive shaft for you 510?

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I learned a few things along the way. I'm happy to help if you have questions or anything.

 

X2. Im not an expert but am willing to share if you need it. Good luck.

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Where is this machine shop? Nice mill.

 

-Brian

 

yeah its in the school i teach at,there's 3 mills one's got a digital axis reader and an auto feed, there is 4 lathes, a bunch of welders(including tig), and my favorite a cnc :D

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The Escort 36-1 wheels pop off with a hammer rather easily.

 

When you go to machine that 2 groove L series crank pulley - be careful! There is not enough depth of the underlying material to make a cut the full depth of the 36-1 wheel. If you cut too far into the crank pulley, instead of making a nice flat surface to mount the 36-1 wheel - you will part it into two pieces!

 

Mine worked great with about 50% coverage and some loctite. I can't remember which loctite it was. I got it from mklotz. Anyway.. He also machined it for a small interference fit. It worked great.

 

You will need to mount your VR sensor before you mate up the crank pulley and 36-1 wheel so you can clock the missing tooth correctly. This is all well documented on the megasquirt web site.

 

Hope this is helpful

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The Escort 36-1 wheels pop off with a hammer rather easily.

 

When you go to machine that 2 groove L series crank pulley - be careful! There is not enough depth of the underlying material to make a cut the full depth of the 36-1 wheel. If you cut too far into the crank pulley, instead of making a nice flat surface to mount the 36-1 wheel - you will part it into two pieces!

 

Mine worked great with about 50% coverage and some loctite. I can't remember which loctite it was. I got it from mklotz. Anyway.. He also machined it for a small interference fit. It worked great.

 

You will need to mount your VR sensor before you mate up the crank pulley and 36-1 wheel so you can clock the missing tooth correctly. This is all well documented on the megasquirt web site.

 

Hope this is helpful

 

 

wow that is extremely helpful, i also may or may-not make my own pulley out of aluminum...what do you guys think of that?.i figure i have the technology why not, right?

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Warning - this is my opinion... I would focus all energy on the so-called main project - EDIS and EFI. It is so easy to get distracted by side projects that seem fun or are otherwise appealing. Once it is running on EFI and you have set up the EDIS stuff, then think about making a new pulley using the knowledge you have gained.

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Warning - this is my opinion... I would focus all energy on the so-called main project - EDIS and EFI. It is so easy to get distracted by side projects that seem fun or are otherwise appealing. Once it is running on EFI and you have set up the EDIS stuff, then think about making a new pulley using the knowledge you have gained.

 

your 100% right i need to get all the other stuff finished them i can go it an "cleanup"...just i got to waite for some $$ and the pulley would be free :lol:

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Then make a nice VR sensor mount that is adjustable 1/2 tooth in either direction. This is a good machine shop project. The VR sensor has to be VERY close to the trigger wheel. You want some adjustment so you can get TDC perfect.

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