1965 L320 - Local since new, extensive history. IT'S ALIVE!

[Charlie69]

Did she get a ride?

[mhub91]

Did she get a ride?

 

 

No. Unfortunately she had knee-replacement surgery about a month ago and hasn't properly healed, so her knee is all banged up and it's difficult for her to walk or move, really. She told me she would like to go for a ride soon!

[]2eDeYe]

Rad! :D

[Charlie69]

I know  where she is at.  I had my right knee replaced a little over 2 months ago.  It is healing fine.  I was told by my surgeon that at 2 months I am about 50% healed.

 

Prayers for the lady.

[mhub91]

Small, useless update.

 

I drive the 320 ever-so-often just around town. Usually on the weekends. Loving it more every time I take it out.

 

Going out for pizza tonight at our favorite pizza place here in Tacoma and decided to the 320 out. 

 

 

 

 

PS: Can anyone confirm that a J13 temp sending unit will work in an E1? Mine has decided to stop working. I tested the circuit and gauge and they are working properly.

 

 

 

 

 

[difrangia]

That little feller cleaned up right nicely !!!

 

Another one saved.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Check your grounds, especially the one from the block to the chassis. You might consider making a ground from the block to the cab for extra security.

 

As per the sender, will a BMC sender work? It might be worth a shot.

[mhub91]

Check your grounds, especially the one from the block to the chassis. You might consider making a ground from the block to the cab for extra security.

 

As per the sender, will a BMC sender work? It might be worth a shot.

 

 

Thanks for the tip. I unplugged the single wire plug at the temp sender and grounded it directly to the head. The temp gauge will full-hot. Plug the connector in and the gauge is dead. Simple way to check circuit and gauge.

 

I was curious about the BMC sender as well. I'll remove mine here shortly and check what it looks like.

[wayno]

With the gauge wire connected to the sender and the key on(after warmed up), touch an extra piece of wire from a ground on the block to the housing of the sender(the part that threads into the thermostat housing), if the gauge starts working, then the sender is not grounding out properly in the thermostat housing, that can happen.

I normally clean the sender threads and try it again, if that don't fix it then I do the best I can to clean the thermostat housing threads that the sender threads into.

Ground to the block when testing the ground, do not ground to anything bolted to the block, sometimes things bolted on to the block don't ground well, especially if it is an aluminum part bolted to the block.

[mhub91]

Thanks. Will try that, too.

 

Found out yesterday the fuel gauge doesn't work either. Time to check that out as well. I thought the tank was nearly empty, but then went to put $10 in gas only to find out it took just over $2 and was coming out the filler neck. Doh!

[wayno]

My fuel gauge didn't work when I bought it, but I checked the gauge and it was good/functioning, so I pulled the sender out of the tank and found the float had holes in it.

Once I put another float on it from another sender, the gauge worked.

[Charlie69]

For the time that the gauge does not work.  Get a gas can, and go to a gas station top of the tank and fill the gas can.  This only works if your odometer works.  Write down the mileage at time of fill up.  Drive the truck until you run it out of gas,  write down the mileage at the time you run out.  subtract the fill up mileage from the ending mileage and know you know how many miles the truck will go on a tank of gas.  Keep a little note book and pen in the glove box so you can keep track of your fill ups and mileages until you get the gauge working.  I would always carry a gallon gas in the truck until the gauge is working properly.

[mhub91]

Thanks! That's not a bad idea.

 

Wayno - that would make sense if my float is rusty. When I turn the ignition on, the needle on the gauge goes from being totally dead to jumping up to "E".the float is most likely dead, just laying there.

[wayno]

OK, my fuel gauge is below the "E" when the key is off, when I turn the key on it snaps to where ever my fuel level is, if the fuel is getting low sometimes it gets stuck in the key off position, but if I tap on the dash it pops up to where it should be for the fuel level I actually have.

The temp gauge with the key off is pegged all the way hot, but when the key is turned on it slowing drops to the cold position.

My guess would be that your float also has holes in it or the arm is stuck in the down position from being there a very long time, I would suggest driving it a while for two reasons, first maybe it will un-stick itself and just start working, second once the fuel level isn't to the top of the tank you can remove the sender without worrying about fuel dumping out everywhere if it doesn't start working.

That little jump the fuel gauge needle makes when you turn the key on makes me think the fuel gauge itself is good, as I set up a test system on my bench, when the float was in the empty position, that needle did jump up to empty when I gave it power(12V).

Thanks! That's not a bad idea.

Wayno - that would make sense if my float is rusty. When I turn the ignition on, the needle on the gauge goes from being totally dead to jumping up to "E".the float is most likely dead, just laying there.

[mhub91]

 

The temp gauge with the key off is pegged all the way hot, but when the key is turned on it slowing drops to the cold position.

 

 

 I thought my truck was malfunctioning for some reason when mine does this! Weird! I wonder why the gauges peg H instead of C when key-off? Strange. Sometimes it's pegged C when key off, too.... Hm.... While driving, though, there is no fluctuation. It's always dead on C. 

[wayno]

Well then it is not working properly either, pull the wire off the sender and ground it out on the block while someone is in the cab watching the needle after it reaches "C", if it starts raising then the gauge is likely good, the temp needle moves very slowly.

If the gauge is good, then remove the sender and clean it up and re-install it and see if it works, if not then you need to source a sender.

My NL320 has an aftermarket temp gauge while my other two have the stock gauges that do work.

 I thought my truck was malfunctioning for some reason when mine does this! Weird! I wonder why the gauges peg H instead of C when key-off? Strange. Sometimes it's pegged C when key off, too.... Hm.... While driving, though, there is no fluctuation. It's always dead on C. 

[mhub91]

Well, The Red Devil is put away for the winter. 

I've decided that I want to drop the fuel tank and give it a good cleaning and inspect it. Seems like I am not getting adequate fuel to the pump (fuel filter goes dry after a few seconds of running- yes, brand new fuel pump!) and there is a large amount of rusty debris in the filter. I think I'll take advantage of the down time and clean the fuel lines - perhaps replace the metal lines? - and give the tank a good cleaning. 

 

After giving Difrangia's Mighty Mouse Rebuild thread a read over, I've also decided to mount my fuel filter like he did. While I still have the factory glass fuel bowl It seems as though I can't find the proper fuel filter. No worries, though. I'll still keep the OE fuel filter glass bowl on the shelf for now.



 

[difrangia]

Great to hear of more progress even if the little truck will be hibernating a bit over the winter. I have my original filter also and will keep it with the pickup in the event I get nostalgic and want to set it back original. It was bypassed by previous owner. 

 

As I had said in the Mighty Mouse thread, I used a number of items (easily reversible to original) that are common to the 78 'Bulletside' to simplify stocking of spares that will be common to both trucks. 

 

I believe that you can get the filter and seal for the original filter unit at 'Tractor Supply'. I believe that Zed1 on the 520 forum has the part numbers as he rebuilt the similar/same filter on his early 520. He'll probably see this and chime in or you or I can contact him directly if you're interested in finding the TS parts.

 

Merry Christmas, all.

 

Steve

[Conner]

I have about ten here at the house that are original Nissan part #16404-68225.  The box includes the filter and a spring, but no gaskets.  I got these in the last few years from Nissanparts.cc, which is Nissan of Olympia, WA.  So you may still be able to order them.  

[mhub91]

Great to hear of more progress even if the little truck will be hibernating a bit over the winter. I have my original filter also and will keep it with the pickup in the event I get nostalgic and want to set it back original. It was bypassed by previous owner. 

 

As I had said in the Mighty Mouse thread, I used a number of items (easily reversible to original) that are common to the 78 'Bulletside' to simplify stocking of spares that will be common to both trucks. 

 

I believe that you can get the filter and seal for the original filter unit at 'Tractor Supply'. I believe that Zed1 on the 520 forum has the part numbers as he rebuilt the similar/same filter on his early 520. He'll probably see this and chime in or you or I can contact him directly if you're interested in finding the TS parts.

 

Merry Christmas, all.

 

Steve

 

 

As always, thanks for sharing info. Merry Christmas to you and yours. PS. - Your build thread is my inspiration. Thanks for doing what you do!

[mhub91]

I have about ten here at the house that are original Nissan part #16404-68225.  The box includes the filter and a spring, but no gaskets.  I got these in the last few years from Nissanparts.cc, which is Nissan of Olympia, WA.  So you may still be able to order them.  

 

Cool! Thanks for the info! Nissanparts.cc is actually local to me and I work for Titus-Will Toyota who is related to Nissanparts.cc (Bruce-Titus Nissan in Olympia, WA.) So I can probably get a discount!

 

Merry Christmas to all!

[HOGIE]

Cool! Thanks for the info! Nissanparts.cc is actually local to me and I work for Titus-Will Toyota who is related to Nissanparts.cc (Bruce-Titus Nissan in Olympia, WA.) So I can probably get a discount!

 

Merry Christmas to all!

Did you look into those filters?

 

I was actually researching were to find some of these fuel elements today

[mhub91]

Have not looked into it yet.

[mhub91]

Photobucket ruined this thread, too.... god damn commie bastards.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Ok, what the hell is up with all the Photosuckit talk. My pics are still showing, at least on my end.  I do see a bunch of other people's content missing.

 

What is the actual problem?