fritzdixxon Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Unless they take off the traction control, stability control, launch control and my car is actually in control I am just the meatsack running the flappy paddles settings. At that point dtr drivers find out how average they are, like when kids with turbos pull away on straight aways but don't know how to maintain speed through the corners Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Did all my brakes today came out pretty good yet fuckin crappy flaring tool, Now I got leaks. I'm going to rip it all out and start over talk about a waste of time. 1 Quote Link to comment
shacks510 Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 That's why I'm hoping Napa has pre fab lines with metric fittings. I don't wanna sell the car because of a shitball flaring tool. 1000th post. yippee me 1 Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Did all my brakes today came out pretty good yet fuckin crappy flaring tool, Now I got leaks. I'm going to rip it all out and start over talk about a waste of time. It's an art. Even expensive tools are hard to master. Cheap tools, don't bother. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I just had to redo a bunch of lines on my truck. I practiced on the old lines before I started making my new ones. Practice lines were crappy. First few new ones weren't better. Tighten the shit out of the tool in the vice. Set lines just a hair above the die and tighten the shit out of the tool-tighter than you think it should be. Use a tiny dab of brak fluid to lube. Do it up. My problem, I wasn't tightening the die enough, letting line move around when being flared. After I figured that out, my flares were perfect. 3 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I made mostly new lines for my wagon and got them from NAPA. You need 3/16" lines which are import size. AFAIK, they offer NO prefab ones. If you decide to give it a go, use the old school ones, and not the teflon coated ones. That's why I'm hoping Napa has pre fab lines with metric fittings. I don't wanna sell the car because of a shitball flaring tool.1000th post. yippee me 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Thanks guys, the flaring tool was the problem it would go down one side first and tear the ends. I have 3 separate leaks all just a drip but enough to kill the deal. I will try this again and yes I am using 3/16 and I believe it or not used a few old connectors so flaring tool is crap garbage can it goes. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Thanks guys, the flaring tool was the problem it would go down one side first and tear the ends. I have 3 separate leaks all just a drip but enough to kill the deal. I will try this again and yes I am using 3/16 and I believe it or not used a few old connectors so flaring tool is crap garbage can it goes. You weren't tightening the line in the tool hard enough. Use the handle and reef on the wingnuts. You'll get it. 2 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Flat is correct, you need to have that shit tight, if its loose it will move around with the dye and get all fuckered up. 1 Quote Link to comment
shacks510 Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I made mostly new lines for my wagon and got them from NAPA. You need 3/16" lines which are import size. AFAIK, they offer NO prefab ones. They sell various straight lengths that are already flared with fittings. I'm painting my engine bay and I want to make new, simpler lines. The factory spaghetti with the brick has to go. 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I gotcha now. I bought lines there that were just a bit longer than I needed. I cut one end off, bent the lines to fit, then took the newly cutoff fitting and added it at the end. They came out real nice, but very time consuming to do, and a buttload of work. I did all the brakes (except the long one to the rear axle) the clutch, and the rear axle. If I thought I'd use it enough, I'd buy that rotary Eastwood flaring tool they offer. That thing looks real nice.. They sell various straight lengths that are already flared with fittings. I'm painting my engine bay and I want to make new, simpler lines. The factory spaghetti with the brick has to go. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 You weren't tightening the line in the tool hard enough. Use the handle and reef on the wingnuts. You'll get it. Flat is correct, you need to have that shit tight, if its loose it will move around with the dye and get all fuckered up. I did guys,the arrow part of the tool I guess get worn so they don't sink straight.. Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 They sell various straight lengths that are already flared with fittings. I'm painting my engine bay and I want to make new, simpler lines. The factory spaghetti with the brick has to go. I will probably do the same. Just was trying to make them tight. Joes was telling me he did the same and just do a better job at tucking them. It's just the time waged that bugs the shit out of me it is something I lack at this time. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 All this money to throw around and you have a worn out fucked up flair tool? come on guy. 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunrides Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 If I thought I'd use it enough, I'd buy that rotary Eastwood flaring tool they offer. That thing looks real nice.. It is. As soon as I did my 1st flare, I shit canned the bar and yoke one. Only down side is you can't do it in place. Needs to be bench/vise mounted. Also, as a side benefit, the 1st setting will give you a nice bubble end for the ends of your fuel line. Ridgid make a nice short radius 3/16" tubing bender that is way better than most of those 3 in 1 tubing benders. I'd offer to loan Tanker my stuff, but I know he will just scoff at me and get the super high end hydraulic flaring tool and the chrome plated benders. LOL. Mark Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Why not try copper nickle line? Its way softer, still DOT approved. I had a perfect flare on my 3rd try ever. Also, I am using a Ridgid branded flare tool, its way way beefier than any other manual flare tool. 2 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Copper work hardens, that's why. Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Did all my brakes today came out pretty good yet fuckin crappy flaring tool, Now I got leaks. I'm going to rip it all out and start over talk about a waste of time.Pratctice makes perfect. 1 Quote Link to comment
shacks510 Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Why not try copper nickle line? Its way softer, still DOT approved. I had a perfect flare on my 3rd try ever. I wouldn't use a soft metal like copper or aluminum for brake lines. Sure, they can handle the pressure, but still. It's like using teflon line for every part of your hydraulic system... 1 Quote Link to comment
shacks510 Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I'll be doing the hydraulics in my engine bay too. I'll figure out how I want to route them with coat hangers, measure the final length, then see what I can get that has the closest matching length. 1 Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Its not copper, its copper nickle (and a bit of iron), also known as cunifer. Changes the metallurgy, kind of like adding carbon to iron makes it steel. Do some research, probably cant find any negatives except the knee jerk responses. There are OEMs using it. Its also so easy to bend you dont need a bender. 2 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 The copper nickle is used on an industrial level for hydraulic systems all the time, it would work just fine on a brake or fuel system. 3 Quote Link to comment
B-Mackin Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Well don't read it, it is what is on 91 octane. Datrod can attest to the nature of the rebello builds. And it is 179 at the fly wheel not at the wheels. It's an idea guys lets not get all flamed up over it. I love the Wago-Melon!!! This thread has been epic to read with some funny troll shut downs. I'm subscribed. I'm happy to see it come along so well and I'm really happy I kept my L18. You almost stole this beast from me! It does make 179WHP on 91 octane so thats just around 200hp at the crank if you add the 20%. After I had Mike Malone rebuild my Mikunis, It started right up and its a whole new monster! All I have left is to replace a small fitting for my oil pressure guage that is causing a hard to find but fairly sugnificant oil leak, stronger clutch and then I'm going to bring it back for a re-tune and new numbers. with the small things I have added to the build under Rebello's guidence I'm hoping for 185whp. I'll try and post a video of it soon on FB and Instagram. #LSeriesMafia 3 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I love the Wago-Melon!!! This thread has been epic to read with some funny troll shut downs. I'm subscribed. I'm happy to see it come along so well and I'm really happy I kept my L18. You almost stole this beast from me! It does make 179WHP on 91 octane so thats just around 200hp at the crank if you add the 20%. After I had Mike Malone rebuild my Mikunis, It started right up and its a whole new monster! All I have left is to replace a small fitting for my oil pressure guage that is causing a hard to find but fairly sugnificant oil leak, stronger clutch and then I'm going to bring it back for a re-tune and new numbers. with the small things I have added to the build under Rebello's guidence I'm hoping for 185whp. I'll try and post a video of it soon on FB and Instagram. #LSeriesMafia I still want it dammit. You need to take me for a ride.Im glad you got it all dialed in. Im just going for something. L18 throttle bodies should put down 90 hp on pump gas.lol Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Fuel pump is in. Going with a LS1 set up. Still going back and forth on the Brain. 2 Quote Link to comment
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