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Idle hands: assorted projects


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10 hours ago, UnderControl said:

Figured it would also be a good idea to toss the frame for the watts link in to make sure clearance wouldn't be an issue.

 

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Is this an aftermarket bit to convert from panhard to watts? Did not know that was a thing... 

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It's the definition of quick and dirty, but as of the final test fit with it all tacked together the tip was perfectly centered.

 

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Had a crappy vband laying for years and this seemed like as good of a place as any to finally use it. Plus side is it'll make it easy to swap in a more obnoxious muffler should the itch strike.

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Got the flange welded on to the muffler and got it all installed. Only to remember that I still need to paint the hanger bracket and the muffler is in the way of removing it.

 

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From the back to the front with a healthy application of some old school CAD.

 

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Probably going to make it a half inch wider toward the fender. The air box seems like a good enough spot to mount the boost controller.

 

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4 hours ago, UnderControl said:

Ha, imagine having inspections.

 

No thank you. 😆

 

We just did away with our state inspections this January. Now there's just the rolling 24 year limit where you have to get plugged into the machine once a year to make sure you aren't throwing a code and that's it. Which means I could build a pretty wild 99-02 SN95 and not have to worry about them checking anything. 

 

Does Indiana not question the boost at all as long as it passes emissions testing?

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19 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

Does Indiana not question the boost at all as long as it passes emissions testing?

 

We have no testing or inspection of any kind.

 

12 hours ago, Rustbin said:

It appears that the opening for air intake is to one side of the filter, could the floor of the airbox be made to direct the incoming up and around the filter for smoother flow?

 

Once the turbo gets to spinning I don't think that'll much matter. The box will be acting primarily as a heat shield with the bonus of being open to fresh cool air. The more pressing concern is a way to divert water should I get caught out in a downpour.

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Mmm, wet and dry shop vac method, center the filter, have the intake directed to spin the water around the side to fall to the bottom while the air gets sucked out the top. The space looks to small to shove a shop vac in there. My Montana van airbox had a sort of air horn plate between the inlet side and the airflow meter which would have stopped water, I think it also has a tiny drain hole but I'm not certain of that. Just thoughts.

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My initial thought is just a couple of vertical plates in the path of the air. The forward one at the top to knock air and water down. The rearward from the bottom that should block most of the water while allowing the air to go up and over. Could also add one of those hydro bag filter cover things.

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Work continues on the box. Got a couple of mounts knocked out. Kept them nice and simple.

 

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Lower one used an existing threaded hole in the frame rail. For the upper I made a new hole that'll get an m6 nutsert whenever I resupply on my metric selection.

 

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Also started on the lid. Haven't decided if I'm going to break the back or just trim it flush.

 

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Maybe some day, but that day is not today. Got a couple of breaks added to the front of the lid to get it flush with the core support since the box isn't level with it across the length.

 

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I did opt to trim the back of the lid flush rather than break a flange on it. I do still need to add a bit to the back to cover the notch above the intake tube, but I'll wait for the nutserts to show up for that.

 

On to the water guard. Started by making the front corner a big radius then used the english knee and a vise to get the lower deflector shaped up.

 

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Dropped it in to ponder options for the upper/forward bit.

 

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Leaning towards bolting or welding a wing off the vertical area of the core support.

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Still waiting on nutserts, and the last real fabrication for this project is to make a coolant overflow that I could easily buy for what I'll have into the material I haven't bought yet. So, I spent yesterday buttoning uninteresting things and today working on replacing the front suspension. The old coilovers have a good 100k+ miles on them and as you might imagine, they're shot.

 

For the moment I'm going static.

 

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These should be a fairly lateral move in terms of performance. I imagine the strut valving should be pretty similar, but the springs should be stiffer.

 

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Hopefully the camber plates offer more adjustment than the slots on the coilovers knuckle holes. First side went together perfectly, but the other was giving me some fits on the knuckle side. Took me a bit before I thought to try putting the bolts in without the knuckle.

 

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Well, that dog won't hunt. I'll reserve most of my frustration until I see how the customer support is, but fair to say this specific strut is useless as is.

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Just waiting on a return label so I can get the bunk strut swapped out.

 

In today's edition off making things for the sake of it I made some bungs for the coolant overflow.

 

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Wasn't able to find any 2.5" aluminum tubing locally so I'll have to wait to finish the overflow. I may go ahead and make a couple more bungs to use for mounting it as well instead of using sheet metal brackets on the bottle.

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Air box is done minus some edge trim for around the intake tube.

 

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Got some button head screws in there for now, but I'll eventually replace those with some thumb screws whenever I get around to getting some metric dies.

 

Also made up some mounting bosses for the coolant overflow. Still waiting for the cap and tube for that.

 

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