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Idle hands: assorted projects


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On 3/11/2025 at 9:43 PM, UnderControl said:

 

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Clicked the easy button for this project, but it's quickly become the standard for re-wiring old bikes. Planning to stick with original switches, although I'll need to source a replacement for the right side. Otherwise I'd like to get the headlight mount and front signals swapped out and probably call it good there for this go around.

 

 

I would love to know how this goes. Rewiring is one of the things keeping me from building an old bike. I'm not scared to rewire a car, but a bike is a bit intimidating...

 

Also, is the one you are using the version with bluetooth keyless start

Edited by datsunfreak
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Posted (edited)

They sure do, and some of the best looking indicators on the market. Considered a full set of just the indicators would set me back more than I have into the m.unit and wire kit, I'll skip those for now. Keeping the original switches does mean I either have to get a little clever about the wiring, or learn to live with slightly different functionality.

 

This is just the basic version, it's discontinued, but floating around at some retailers/eBay. the wiring kit is from revival cycle. I don't want an app for every little thing, and as far as I know the app is 90% for doing the base configuration. It can also be used like a key, but so does my key or any other RFID device you could want. The alarm feature can notify your phone, but only in Bluetooth range so really limited.

Edited by UnderControl
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18 hours ago, UnderControl said:

Keeping the original switches does mean I either have to get a little clever about the wiring, or learn to live with slightly different functionality.

 

This is my concern. We've rewired a lot of cars, but the one time we did a Datsun and tried to use all of the OE switches, it was a mess trying to get them to function exactly as they did stock. We just went to all aftermarket switches after that. 

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If it helps the manual makes it sound like classic Japanese bikes are the only problematic switches. At this point m unit installs on basically anything are well documented, and with aftermarket switches should be basically plug 'n play.

 

Funny/sad story about the harness that's in my 620. Got it from a buddy after he scrapped an mx6 project he could never get running. Took me longer than I care to admit to figure out that the Datsun ignition switch is wired differently from the Chevy switches the harness was designed for. Friend was down right angry (at himself) after I told him how I fixed it.

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Electronics tray now has a hole in it.

 

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Got started on the actual box as well. Maybe should have trimmed it up a little before starting to tack it together.

 

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Some other parts rolled in. Maybe the most interesting of which are these cheap knockoffs of those moto gadget indicators I like.

 

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I feel like these might be larger than the nice ones, but they are 10x cheaper and are cleaner than the stock ones. The headlight bracket will be getting replaced as well. Not sure how I feel about the white running light, but do like that the white shuts off when the amber signal is triggered. Definitely think I'll end up painting the area of the lenses that would otherwise shine toward me.

 

Clip of testing the lights.

 

https://i.imgur.com/bl6idBv.mp4

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Box tacked to the tray, and hooked the starter wire up to check for fit. While it reaches with room to spare, I may still make a new one a little longer to tuck the wire behind the frame better.

 

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I did make this a bit deeper than the cardboard version to have more room for activities. Also left the front off until I have the wiring mostly in.

 

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Followed that up with more disassembly.

 

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Edited by UnderControl
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Running out of bits to remove.

 

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This is supposed to be a quick rewire job, so I should probably actually work on the wiring part.

 

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Got the switch wiring figured out, and it's really not all that bad to keep 99% of the original functionality, while being able to eliminate 5 wires out of the left switch. In my case I'm choosing to be ok with the kill switch being wired backwards, while being a fun joke for would be joy riders. Also got the base configuration setup.

 

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Decided on mounting locations for the important things and started drilling.

 

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The solenoid mount is probably temporary. Also got most of the wiring laid out.

 

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I should probably figure out what I'm doing for connectors, and how to mount the relay I'm adding to be able to turn off the lights without sending all of the power through the headlight switch.

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Wiring is more or less laid out.

 

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Opted to dig a few wires out of the old harness for sensors and coils. Remembered that while I have replaced the rectifier, I didn't bother getting one with the built in regulator. I could certainly use the original mechanical reg since it is still working, but should just go ahead and do the thing while I'm here.

 

Really trying to avoid significant scope creep, but I'm pretty sure the headstock bearings aren't supposed to feel like detents so those are on the list now. Could really use fork tubes and rear shocks. A dual front brake setup would be nice, but this how things end up on stands forever.

 

 

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On 3/26/2025 at 10:11 PM, UnderControl said:

Could really use fork tubes and rear shocks. A dual front brake setup would be nice, but this how things end up on stands forever.

 

This is how I ended up buying a new bike. Spent more time wrenching than I did riding my old ones...  😆

 

Would love to do something like this though. I still have an early '80s Yamaha 750 cruiser I'd love to build some day...

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Sometime in the next few years I'll probably add a 919/cb900 to the fleet, but even those are getting on 20 years old now. A supermoto something or other with more than 4hp would be cool. Seem to be a lot of KTMs and Huskies in that mix. My cheapness keeps my vehicular mania in check though.

 

Still waiting on some parts to show up to finish out the harness for the current bike so took some time to make a better solenoid mount.

 

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Then went ahead and welded up the box, as it sits. Will still need to make up a front for it, but I'll wait for the harness to be loomed up for that.

 

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Thanks, something I'm trying to get properly good at. One of these days I need to take an actual class.

 

Today I played around with power distribution. Haven't decided if using buss bars is brilliant or unnecessarily adds complexity.

 

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Started terminating wires last night when I thought to check if the low beam circuit stayed on with the highbeam...it does not. Wouldn't be an issue except I'm trying to run my gauge and running lights from it. The simple solution here will be the same for keeping the signal indicator though, just need to run diodes and wire the gauges/markers from both the low and high circuits.

 

Then the tornado sirens started singing and 22 hours later I'm still without power. At least I finally had the excuse I was looking for to make new carb gaskets for the generator, and found a way to empty that fuel I never used from last season.

 

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New record of 63 hours to get power back. With the lights back on I'm back on the bike. Got the front all wrapped up short of the wires that I need to add diodes too, and have started working my way down the frame.

 

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Fun to think about how this is actually less of a mess than the stock wiring.

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Got everything terminated back to the box. Made up some diode branches to finish out the front.

 

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And got the trigger wires finished up.

 

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While I was going through the power side it occurred to me that the pdm is the only thing I actually care about not back feeding, so I could have just dropped the diodes right in the unit.

 

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Tested the front lights, sans switched relay and all is working as intended. The led indicators on the board made for easy verification of the rest of the switch functions. It's going to take me a minute to get used to the kill switch being inverted.

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Got the relay for the lights wired in and that wraps the m unit wiring, short of the starter solenoid. I still need to finish swapping connectors over for the regulator/rectifier and terminate a few loose ends.

 

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