]2eDeYe Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 I feel like this is going to be awesome :) Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted November 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2018 It is going to be something alright. Starting off pretty slow on this one, but have managed to get the interior stripped minus doors and headliner. Floors are pretty solid, a few more pin holes than I would like, but still the most rust free project I've had in a while. With the front glass out and seal mostly cleaned out I got a look at the root around the rim. It ain't pretty, but it isn't through either. Might be able to get away without having to cut and patch it. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 I thought you said no more rusty projects... ? 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted November 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 On 11/15/2018 at 7:54 PM, datsunfreak said: I thought you said no more rusty projects... ? I know, I know. I've technically owned this one for close to 15 years though, so couldn't really let it go without fixing what my neglect caused. Still a lot less rot than was ok my daily when I bought it. I have managed to strip the rest of the interior and trunk other than the passenger door where the window winder is being fickle about coming off. Should have some parts starting to roll in over the next couple of weeks. 2 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted November 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2018 (edited) With the interior stripped out I got a bug up my ass to start getting a look at the known rust areas. The one from my last pic above turned out to be not so bad. The other corner on the other hand was a little less lucky. As I worked my way around the car I found that several of the paint bubbles were due to poor prep rather than actual rust spots, so that was cool. What was less cool was finding that whoever did the last semi-resto subscribed to the jackass's guide to rust repair. Hard to tell in the pic, but that is about 3/16s of an inch of bondo. While that is the deepest I've found so far it is not the only area where this "repair" was made. The rest of the left rear quarter is pretty clean other than a couple holes around the arch. Edited November 28, 2018 by UnderControl Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Then this found its way back into my life for an ecu install. 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted December 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2018 Finally got myself a shop duster. I love old tools, and CL on the rare occasion you find a good deal on there. Quote Link to comment
Aibast Posted December 7, 2018 Report Share Posted December 7, 2018 Looks like stress fractures in the window corner, if I see it right. Is this usual for Mustangs? Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted December 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2018 20 hours ago, Aibast said: Looks like stress fractures in the window corner, if I see it right. Is this usual for Mustangs? I think what you're seeing there is some pitting in an area where 3 panels join. No fracturing that I've seen so far. Well, I got the driver's seat mount out and I'm thinking I should abandon the idea of getting away without doing floor pans. Not that these aren't salvageable, but good quality replacements are so cheap that it just isn't worth the effort of making patch panels. Some more fine work from a past life. I was gonna pull the passenger side mount out too, but was laughing too hard and called it a night. 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted December 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2018 Got out to the garage for a bit last night. Started by getting my Dexter on to help keep dust localized to the work area. Got the passenger seat riser out although I didn't take any pics of that. I did however play with some lighting for a night sky effect. Passenger. driver Also got to playing around with the old HF pressure pot blaster and came to two conclusions. First being that my compressor will in fact keep up with my use of it and second being that some modification will be required to get it to actually feed worth a damn. When you can get it to feed it does the job. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 Doing the hard work now. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 On 12/6/2018 at 5:17 PM, UnderControl said: Finally got myself a shop duster. I love old tools, and CL on the rare occasion you find a good deal on there. I have this same one. Works great and good output. All my gaskets weep after I put synthetic oil in it, but it runs quiet and cool ? Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted December 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2018 So far the oil is staying in place and it is working well. My early winter solstice holiday gift to myself finally showed up. Just in time to sit in the growing pile of parts for a few months. 2 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted December 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2018 Shop got a new toy as well. Some minor modification will be necessary to make it more user friendly, but does alright so far. 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted December 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2018 All of the sheet metal I've ordered has arrived so I should get around to actually doing more work. Planning to get the engine/trans pulled some time over the next week or so, but before I do I got the inkling to test out some ideas. While I'm not really a fan of exhausting over the valve covers, there isn't really a good way to route things that avoid it. There is however a lot more clearance than I would have expected and I should be able to keep a decent air gap between everything and the pipes on either side. This is getting way way ahead of the project though, and the engine that might actually see turbos will sit in the bay a bit differently so clearance is subject to change. 2 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted January 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 Well ended up throwing out my back and haven't gotten back to the car yet. Finally went and picked up a hoist from a buddy yesterday so maybe the engine will come out this week. In the meantime I have been working on some lighter duty projects. Chief among those being getting the bead roller setup for one man operation. Hazard fraught atv winch. Cut off the end off the spool and ordered a Lovejoy coupler to attach it to the bead roller. Then I made myself a PBR PWM PSU. Early in this thread I made mention of how much I like beer boxes for templates. Still do. 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted January 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 Now the motor is actually attached. Just need to build a box to hold the power supply and it'll be good to go. Also tested to make sure the power supply and pulse width modulator actually work to power the motor and controls the speed and direction. 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 (edited) The power supply/pulse width modulator box is taking shape, this time without beer boxes. Edited January 16, 2019 by UnderControl 1 Quote Link to comment
Aibast Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 I like what you did with that tool. Now you don't need 3 arms to operate that thing. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 Schematics for PSU? Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted January 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 (edited) Electric conversion is pretty much required for one person operation on these and as it happens there are a million different builds out there to go off of. I picked the simplest/cheapest to work from and add my own spin to. No schematic as such on the psu, it is a standard off the shelf chinesium 20A AC/DC switching psu feeding a similar quality pwm. I'm using standard computer style power cords for power in and to my makeshift foot pedal. At the moment the pedal is just a momentary switch that goes between the psu and pwm, if I find it too cumbersome to adjust speed by the dial I'll switch it out for a foot controlled potentiometer. Edited January 17, 2019 by UnderControl 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted January 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2019 Better part of 2 hours later and I've created two holes for things. Only two more just like it and a bunch of standard round holes and this project will be a paint job away from being done. 2 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted January 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2019 Transformer blew around the corner from home, so I was without power for the first bit garaging so I turned my attention back to the car since I didn't need electric for that. All that was left to get the engine out was to drop the drive shaft, disconnect the shift linkage and undo the mounts. After getting the engine out and pondering a bit I got back to the box. All the holes are drilled/cut, with the exception of the 4 to mount the power ports. Now just need to weld it to the motor bracket, paint it and finally mount the PSU in it. 1 Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted January 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2019 Not a significant update, but the box is done short of final assembly. Quote Link to comment
UnderControl Posted January 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2019 Then there was an electric bead roller. Only piece of scrap I had to play with. Powered right through the existing bends, and based on previous tests it should do all that I need of it. I haven't yet added any additional bracing, but based on my tests I'm not sure it will be needed for my purposes. If I find flex is a problem I'll add bracing later. 3 Quote Link to comment
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