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UnderControl

Idle hands: assorted projects

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With the 620 in a state of relative completion it is time to get back to working on my Mustang aka other lifelong project.  For those that didn't see my intro/build thread...

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The plan was fairly simple, some new motor mounts, patch a hole in my crossover pipe for the turbo, and rework the intercooler piping a bit.  To give you an idea of how well I am sticking to that plan here is a pic of my new "motor mounts"

 

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In fairness it did come with poly mounts.

 

So far I have removed all of the front suspension, minus the sway bar. I have removed the exhaust after the turbo and the intercooler piping pre-intercooler.

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Since I spend more time on this forum now than the various mustang forums I am a member of I'll be posting progress here.

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Got some more work done today. Turbo and all of the hotside piping are out.  I had forgotten how much of a pain in the ass that crossover pipe is to get in and out of there.  I'm looking forward to seeing how much easier it will be with the new kmember.

 

obligatory oics

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And just to give you an idea of just how far off course I've gone from my original plan...

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Not everything on the list is really within the scope of this project, just things that came to mind, and some of it is just standard maintenance.

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Almost everything that needs to come off is off now.  Hoping to actually get the kmember dropped and swapped this weekend.  Got the headers and studs pulled and started trying to figure out where to re-relocate my oil filter.

 

More potato pics

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Out with the old and in with the new.

 

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Now just a million or so other things to get done.

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Headers are cleaned and wrapped.

 

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No pictures, but I have also started removing the bushings from the front control arms...1 down 3 more giant pain in the asses to go.

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Finally putting things back together, although only about half way through the list.

 

I have patched the crossover pipe and just need to wrap it before throwing it back on.

 

Headers are back in, bushings are all removed, ball joints, strut mounts and oil filter relocation adapter replaced.

 

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While I was at it I painted the control arms a hammered black to somewhat match the new kmember and I gave the coilovers a decent clean.  Also not pictured, I have removed the fender liners and cleaned behind them and painted the exposed areas so they blend in.  Struts are back on the car as well and I will hopefully have the new bushings mounted and the control arms back on by the weekend so I can start getting the exhaust piping and turbo back in and start planning out the new intercooler piping and figure out where to re-relocate the oil filter to.

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Control arms and spindles are back in, so crossing things off the list.  Also added to the list, opting to go ahead and replace the oil pan gasket while I have everything out of the way.  After that turbo piping will start going back in...as soon as it is rewrapped or gets a new coat of silicon.

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Starting to look like a little more than half a car again.

Brakes are back on and the crossover pipe is re-wrapped.  I ended up removing the sway bar so I could have enough room to use my soft persuader when getting the control arms back in, so now I'm in the process of cleaning it up for some new paint.

I'm going to go ahead and replace the oil pan gasket before pipes start going back in.

 

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Crossover pipe is back in, and I had forgotten how much of a PITA it was.  Clearance is marginally improved with the new k-member though, so where previously the driver's side pipe was resting on the rear lower control arm mount there is now a mm or two gap.

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Since my last update, but not pictured I have also finished painting my sway bar, reworked the lower radiator hose to eliminate some kinking, I made an EGR block-off plate and I have thoroughly cleaned the underside of the car.  I'm hoping to have the rest of the exhaust piping and the turbo back in this weekend so that starting early next week I can start reworking my intercooler piping. 

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yep, that's a turbo.

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Also got my oil filter re-relocated, required since the new turbo pushed the down pipe over just enough to come in contact with it.

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Luckily I was able to just rotate it up and out of the way so I didn't have to drill/tap any new holes or worry about getting new oil lines.

 

I got my vacuum distribution block installed as well. Got pretty lucky with this piece, the mounting holes happened to line up perfectly with a couple of mounting points on the intake manifold that I wasn't using. Even the supplied hardware was the right size. I did have to shave some off the back of the block to clear the intake runners.

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Got the swaybar mounted back up and the tierods reattached to the spindles.

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Got a bit more accomplished this morning.

 

Oil lines are run to the filter, O2 sensors are back in and intercooler piping is ready to go minus a couple of flanges which I will need to get welded on.

 

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I wanted to smooth out the air flow a bit headed to the throttle body, so out with the 90 and in with the 0.

 

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Went from 3" to 2.5" between the turbo and the intercooler, mostly because I could, but partly for more clearance under the radiator mount.

 

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Hoses errywhere.

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Got the various holes and slots cut out of the intercooler pipes and dropped them off at the welder to have the flanges attached.  Endlinks are re-installed and adjusted and I got the k-member brace installed.

 

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Suspension is all torqued so that portion of the project is finally finished.  Now just need to run some vacuum lines, mount up my catch can and pipes when I get them back and I'll be done under the hood as well.

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Back from the long weekend and back to work. Picked up my intercooler pipes from the welder and started getting them installed last night.  

 

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Decided to go ahead and give the maf pipe some extra thermal protection. Internet reviews be like "glue fails over time", challenge accepted.

 

In a serendipitous turn of events the shop I had weld the flanges happened to have some 4" scrap pipe laying around that is damn near perfect for my intake.

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Also got my new breather can mounted to the firewall, now just waiting on the hose to show up.

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Nearly wrapped up under the hood, just waiting on a coupler, a few clamps and the hoses for the catch can.  Vacuum lines are all run, strut brace is installed and I got my turbo a blanket.  I've got the rest of the exhaust in so I could make some new hangers, but it will have to come back out for welding.  I also finally got around to replacing my busted e-brake cables so for the first time in 7 years or so I'll actually have an ebrake.

 

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So very nearly there.  Exhaust is fully back in, intake is made all the various hoses and lines are run, fluids and filters are changed.  AT this point the thing that is holding me up is a freaking o-ring that still hasn't arrived, starting to seem like it is on the slow boat from China.  I also have a few wires to fix, but as it happens I forgot my soldering iron at my mothers house a couple of hours away...I'll be there next weekend so the wires will wait.  Until then I plan to occupy myself by actually making an airbox instead of just having the filter chilling in the corner of a hot box.

 

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Got to love beer boxes, they make such good templates.

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Car is back on the ground, washed and test driven.  I also replaced the axle tube vent (fitting with a cap crimped over it) with my old catch can, so no more gear oil all over the axle.  Now just some busy work until I can get a tune scheduled.

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How about a little update.  Been driving the car around a bit, working on getting the old gas out and make sure it all stays together.  Will be scheduling the tune in the next couple of days.

 

Got around to fixing some rock chips turned rust spots on the roof, but at the time the only top coat color I had was white (I don't always plan ahead).  Rather than roll around with funny square white spots I opted to dip the roof.

 

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The picture does it too much justice.

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Finally made it in for a tune! I'm happy with the results, for now anyway.  It came it at 363/401 rwhp/rwtq up 30hp and 10tq from the previous turbo on the same amount of boost.  Power comes on sooner and makes a much smoother line on the graph. 

 

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You sure got alot of work done on that thing over the winter!

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Well after destroying one clutch I put in one that would actually hold the torque and was quickly reminded why I went with the last clutch in the first place. 

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So now two transmissions and a whole driving seasons later I'm upgrading.

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Old T5 on the right new to me TR3650 on the left.

 

Of course that doesn't exactly bolt right in.

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Several pain in the ass hours later.

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Hope to have the drive shaft dropped off to get shortened later this week and be back to driving this thing in the next couple.

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There be trannies in here, datzenmike surely isn't far away....

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This kind of thread pisses me off.....

I'm jealous ! 

Guys with the modern pony cars can buy tube subframes.

I can't :(

 

No wonder I hate mustangs.

(and why I take great pleasure picking on them late Friday nights)

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wouldn't two smaller turbos spood better and move more air than one big one? And I didn't see bypass valve or a blowoff to vent the overpressure. I have always used bypass valves as they don't lead to overly rich mixtures when venting overpressure.

 

One thing that I liked about the Volvo 480 turbo I had was a turbo cooling. The coolant line going into the turbo had a temperature controlled electric waterpump that kept the cooland running when you shut down the engine. So the oil didn't cook in the bearings of the turbo and you didn't have a need to cool down the turbo before turning the engine off.

 

Still nice stang  - I don't get you guys over there obsessing about chevy vs ford. They both make same kind of cars.

 

PS. If you have a chance to change out polts that hold stuff together and get water on them use new hotcalvanized of stainless ones. I have repairing my friends Ford, as most of the bolts are rusted shut. Volvo had all the undercarrige bolts hotcalvanized or stainless. And aftes 15 years in this salty stuff all the bolts come loose easy.

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wouldn't two smaller turbos spood better and move more air than one big one? And I didn't see bypass valve or a blowoff to vent the overpressure. I have always used bypass valves as they don't lead to overly rich mixtures when venting overpressure.

 

One thing that I liked about the Volvo 480 turbo I had was a turbo cooling. The coolant line going into the turbo had a temperature controlled electric waterpump that kept the cooland running when you shut down the engine. So the oil didn't cook in the bearings of the turbo and you didn't have a need to cool down the turbo before turning the engine off.

 

Still nice stang  - I don't get you guys over there obsessing about chevy vs ford. They both make same kind of cars.

 

PS. If you have a chance to change out polts that hold stuff together and get water on them use new hotcalvanized of stainless ones. I have repairing my friends Ford, as most of the bolts are rusted shut. Volvo had all the undercarrige bolts hotcalvanized or stainless. And aftes 15 years in this salty stuff all the bolts come loose easy.

 

I've got a 50mm BOV in there about 6" after the turbo, just can't see it in the pictures.  While twins would be nice and have been done once on one of these engines, no one actually makes a twin kit, in fact no one makes any other kit than this one for the engine. At any rate I have all of my boost right around 3k rpm and this turbo is capable of moving a lot more air than the engine can handle.  I like the idea of the electric water pump for the turbo, but on most modern ball bearing turbos it isn't as much of a concern as it once was.  Pretty much the only factory bolts left under the car are the strut/shock bolts.

 

This kind of thread pisses me off.....

I'm jealous ! 

Guys with the modern pony cars can buy tube subframes.

I can't :(

 

No wonder I hate mustangs.

(and why I take great pleasure picking on them late Friday nights)

 

This ain't no straight line car and don't make nearly enough power to be competitive with any fast cars.

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Well, color me a sad panda. Driveshaft shop won't shorten aluminum shafts. So now I get to try and find a place that will or buy a new one. 

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