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Ant-dat

Ant-Dat's 71 N510

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if i'm correct, lowish compression and free revving engine, The L13/14 rev much nicer than say a L18/20B

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I have built some wild Lseries engines and out of the L16, L18, and L20B's I would say hands down the best sounding and most powerful fun on the street was the L16 with a mild cam, 1mm overbore, early truck exhaust mani, matchbox dizzy, Cannon intake, and Weber 32/36.

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Interesting nl320what, Stupidly a few years ago i sold my L18 and scrapped a low mileage L16  :(


i have a few things still to decide for the L20B, 

1 is the down pipe, do i make it extra long runner and join then say under the foot well, or keep them sorted more like the factory one. I do plan on using a stainless exhaust system either 2 or 2.25mm

2 you mentioned match box dizzy, Is this the one with the little box on the side of the dizzy?

 

I have stripped cleaned the factory L20B one still with points at the moment but was thinking of fitting acu spark or power spark kit. I have one of these in my N12 cherry and it works great. However i have been reading about these matchbox dizzy and i think i may have one (if it is as i describe) I imported it from Australia and i think it came from a series 2 910

 

whats  the thoughts?

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9 hours ago, Ant-dat said:

 

 

 

 

27 minutes ago, Ant-dat said:

Interesting nl320what, Stupidly a few years ago i sold my L18 and scrapped a low mileage L16  :(


i have a few things still to decide for the L20B, 

1 is the down pipe, do i make it extra long runner and join then say under the foot well, or keep them sorted more like the factory one. I do plan on using a stainless exhaust system either 2 or 2.25mm

2 you mentioned match box dizzy, Is this the one with the little box on the side of the dizzy?

 

I have stripped cleaned the factory L20B one still with points at the moment but was thinking of fitting acu spark or power spark kit. I have one of these in my N12 cherry and it works great. However i have been reading about these matchbox dizzy and i think i may have one (if it is as i describe) I imported it from Australia and i think it came from a series 2 910

 

whats  the thoughts?

 

If L20B, use the L16 (likely used on the L14 too) cast iron 'header' that is 4 into two with the down pipe joining the two into one. The stock down pipes only go about 6" before joining. I put an L16 exhaust manifold on my U67 equipped L20B but had no down pipe for it. One of our members gave me a flange that fit the manifold and I modified a 240sx twin down pipe to fit it. These extend much farther and join under your feet. I measures roughly from the exhaust valve to the join to a single pipe and was around 32".

 

Do the long separated pipes do anything? Beats me but it was $10 for the 240zx pipes at a scrap yard and it sounds pretty good.

 

 

 

 

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They are still somewhat plentiful, but I would say keep costs down running an Lseries on a budget.  

 

The fun is when swapping in a L/Z24 or KA24, all of which came in the 80's Datsun trucks and near bolt in and drive away with some fab work.

 

The complete stock manifold is pretty good with a 4-2-1 down pipe that exits under the floor board and it flows well.

 

Yup, the early matchbox is ok the side of dizzy and the later one has a black box remote to stop heat soak.

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If EI distributor be sure to get the matching coil. A points coil with ballast will only give you a breakerless ignition. If you want higher output you need the EI coil to go with it. Don't use a points coil.... it will overheat.

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Hi datzenmike

 

No i was saying i have kept the L14 and have a u67 head should i wish to try a turbo option later. The L14 i have has a 210 head and is all still in one peice.

The L20B i have a ported and polished new old stock A87 head, The header is from a L18T which i guess is the same as a L16, I wish i still had the L20B one but got lost somewhere down the line ?

 

I did the same with my C32 increased the runners to just under the left hand foot well as i felt it was way to short with the 6 cylinder. It did make a bit of a difference it allowed the engine to rev more free.

 

Nl320what, 

I'll grab some pictures of the dizzy i have. Would you say this should be the one i use?

 

Edited by Ant-dat

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Just now, datzenmike said:

If EI distributor be sure to get the matching coil. A points coil with ballast will only give you a breakerless ignition. If you want higher output you need the EI coil to go with it. Don't use a points coil.... it will overheat.

 

I got the coil with the dizzy :) from the same car

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looks like i got mixed up with a Dizzy from another one of my cars

Here is the one i got for the L4

dizzy001.JPG

dizzy002.JPG

dizzy003.JPG

dizzy004.JPG

dizzy005.JPG

 

Edited by Ant-dat

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No work tomorrow on 510 ? mate at paint shop called say parts on my Primera GT (US G20)  are in primer and require my work. So off to work on the GT tomorrow. Not sure if i'm ? or ☹️

 

I am looking forward to getting the GT back as it was on another place for nearly 2 years and wasn't touched ? It  modded pushing out 220HP from it;s SR20DEh and i have a VE in the side line for it ?

Edited by Ant-dat

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Wow, thats and Aussie L-Series E-distributor, they work well but need the control module like a 80's GM truck had.

 

You need the ICM: Bosch 9 222 067 021

 

The matchbox dizzy is Japanese and the electronic module is self contained in a black Matchbox looking part. Used ones run $100usd on ebay alot of time. They have the adjustable base too.

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so do you recommend i get the missing parts and use this? I also noticed i don;t have base plate
even if i need to start with the OME L20B one with points (i have a few OEM old stock points and condensors)

Edited by Ant-dat

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I have never used or install the Aussie Electronic type on my own engines, it is a pretty powerful system but those dont have an adjustable base.

 

The points dizzy work fine, its old school and works good for stock motors.

 

These are what I am used to with a Matchbox Dizzy Clickable Here, and Mike added the fact that you should use the electronic coil with it that you have.

 

 

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yep that's slimier system on my C32.
this kit came from the same car so dizzy and coil is matched

 

I may just stick with points to get it up and running and look to get missing parts or different system in time. Could a MSD control this system?

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There are tons of info on 510 cars with MSD Ignitions.

 

The Aussie and Matchbox ones have been ran on performance motors, no need to spend on the MSD unless you get a good deal, wont be needed unless you run NOS or 20lbs Boost.

 

If anything run the points to get it running and collect your parts you want to upgrade to is a great idea. 

 

I adjust the points with the Dizzy out of the car in my hand... adjust the screws till points stay closed as I turn it, then when the cam is on the points tab peak, I adjust the points with a small piece of paper folded over once and set the screws. then rotate by hand and check with a meter to make sure it fully seats and opens enough to break.

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Thats a clean down pipe, looks alot better made than the states ones I seen.

 

Little bit here and there adds up. Keep up the progress!

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Fresh paint looks so good, even if just primer!

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The work on the GT will soon  bee complete, It's now in colour and i just need to bolt it all back together. Once thats done i can turn my efforts back onto the 510 ?

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Managed a little more work on the 510 bay

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Now waiting on the next dry warm day to wet sand and put it in colour :)

Edited by Ant-dat
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Hopefully i can get an oil strainer to finish the engine so it can be fitted one paint is done

 

L20B0088.JPG

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little update, 

 

Please be kind, It's the first time i have mixed paint and used a spray gun.

510BW092.JPG
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I have to say for the first time i'm please with myself lol

 

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Last night i refitted the pedal box and stripped and repaired the steering box/column. Also found the brake booster i have has a damaged seal at the front so i will need to look at rebuilding that.

 

Hopefully get the steering box refitted tonight and start working out the brake line routes. 

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Looks fantastic! 
Where are you in Scotland? My sister moved to Edinburgh so I've been up there a bunch!

 

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On 7/13/2018 at 7:41 AM, datzenmike said:

 

 

 

 

If L20B, use the L16 (likely used on the L14 too) cast iron 'header' that is 4 into two with the down pipe joining the two into one. The stock down pipes only go about 6" before joining. I put an L16 exhaust manifold on my U67 equipped L20B but had no down pipe for it. One of our members gave me a flange that fit the manifold and I modified a 240sx twin down pipe to fit it. These extend much farther and join under your feet. I measures roughly from the exhaust valve to the join to a single pipe and was around 32".

 

Do the long separated pipes do anything? Beats me but it was $10 for the 240zx pipes at a scrap yard and it sounds pretty good.

 

 

 

 

 

This guy does a good series bout headers.  Not trying to thread jack, sorry.

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