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610 wagon rear shocks


david lo pan

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Take another look at your goon set up. You could put 24" blocks in it and your shocks still wouldn't need shortening. Only the differential is moving up not the lower mount for the shock absorber.

 

I lowered my 710 goon about that amount and it upsets the drive shaft angles. This will cause vibration. Annoying droning vibration and eventual wear of the U joints. If you notice this it can be adjusted out.

 

Set the car rear wheels on blocks. The car doesn't have to be level but it does have to be down and riding on the wheels. Remove the driveshaft. Put a straight edge vertically across the transmission output and measure the angle to a vertical reference. Or place a compass on the transmission and a string with washer for a plumb bob and read the angle. You can also buy a tool that measures drive line angles. Now do the same on the differential flange. These two angles must be the same to cancel any vibration. What I did was place 1/8" shims on the back side of the lowering blocks and the leaf springs. This would rotate the differential up at the back, and the flange on the differential downward at the front and corrected and matched the two angles. The difference was nothing short of amazing!

 

I thought it was just increasing tire noise or out of balance. One other thing, check your driveshaft of under coating over spray. The people and shops that do this are idiots. Mine was covered on one side and I noticed it when putting in my 5 speed.

 

710driveshaft001Large-1.jpg

 

710driveshaft004Large.jpg

 

This couldn't have been good for the balance.

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What I did was place 1/8" shims on the back side of the lowering blocks and the leaf springs. This would rotate the differential up at the back, and the flange on the differential downward at the front and corrected and matched the two angles.

Did you put the shims between the block and axle, or between the leaf springs and the block?? ... Jacob says I should put them on top of the blocks

 

I bought 2 degree axle wedges .. which are 1/4" thick on the thick side .. to go with my 3" lowering blocks, and a flipped leaf spring

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Did you put the shims between the block and axle, or between the leaf springs and the block?? ... Jacob says I should put them on top of the blocks

 

I bought 2 degree axle wedges .. which are 1/4" thick on the thick side .. to go with my 3" lowering blocks, and a flipped leaf spring

On top of the blocks because you dont want the blocks tilted from the springs. Think about when you bolt it together. Axle on top, then shim, then block, then leaf. All you did there was rotate the axle and the U-bolts will function properly. If you flip the block and shim to have Axle, block, shim, leaf, you will be swinging the block and axle forward, and the U-bolts will not tighten properly on the bottom plate (squarely).

 

Again, whether lift or lower, shim between axle and block, tall end of shim to rear.

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In both cases when adding a wedge shim, the axle will be rotated inside the loosened U bolts, with the front of the differential swinging downward the same amount weather the shim is above or below the block. The U bolts won't know the difference as they are round and tightening onto a rounded surface. The U bolts will be in exactly the same place on the axle tube and exactly the same position on the bottom plate regardless of the wedge position. No different.

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In both cases when adding a wedge shim, the axle will be rotated inside the loosened U bolts, with the front of the differential swinging downward the same amount weather the shim is above or below the block. The U bolts won't know the difference as they are round and tightening onto a rounded surface. The U bolts will be in exactly the same place on the axle tube and exactly the same position on the bottom plate regardless of the wedge position. No different.

Um there is some difference... You are neglecting the other thing shims do, besides rotate the axle. They also move the axle forward, relative to the car/leafs. Now does the axle move more forward with shim under or over block? Under block! When under the block, the shim is no longer rotating just the axle, but the block as well, which in turn moves the axle more forward.

 

So lets think about it another way, remove the axle/shims/blocks out of the picture. Slide the u-bolts around the leafs and through the bottom plates. Place the nuts on the u-bolts. Now pull up on the u-bolts and make the nuts rest flat against the plate, take note how the nuts have to be equal distance up the threads and that the u-bolt needs to be perpendicular to the leafs/lower plate. I would say this angle is the safest for bolting things together. So now with shims, you have moved the axle forward, which in turn will make the u-bolts not perpendicular to the leafs/lower plate, and therefore not ideal. So since moving the axle forward is unavoidable with shims, lets pick the lesser of two evils and go with shim between axle and block as that moves the axle the least forward keeping the u-bolts the most perpendicular to the leafs/lower plate.

 

Now I recognize how much the axle moves forward is both a small amount, and changes based on angle of shim and if placed under the block, how tall the block is. But considering I have seen blocks and shims ejected from a vehicle (4wd truck), I would want to take the safest and strongest route.

 

Please dont say there is no difference when there is.

 

And to exacerbate the issue, here is a picture with what is about a 45 degree shim (yes not realistic, but makes the point) in both scenarios.

 

Untitled-1.jpg

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