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Snake pit - rhino built


Rhino13

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IMG_20150307_104459289_zpszovlsla0.jpg

 

That is the plug for the choke heater relay. Without it connected or if the alternator not charging your choke will never shut off and your carb will be on fast idle.

 

The fuel pump relay is in the background.

 

 

 

Post a picture of the wire hanging from the alternator.

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Ok good to know on the relay. Here's the wire, it's got black covering on it, and you can't see the red down by the post, but you can see the rubber housing for the post is all ripped and that wire goes nowhere. Only the two white ones connected together.

IMG_20150307_131524654_zpsoqyhi2fp.jpg

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The insulated post is the alt. output terminal. Those two White wires go to it. Or should go to it. If there is a cut off Red wire to it, I don't think this is even the correct alternator, but may still work. Another thing is the two wire (White & Green) plug looks to have an adapter that the engine harness hooks into.

 

You can remove that black covered wire... you don't ever want it touching something else down there.

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The red wire was part of the same boot as the white ones. It's an A/C model if that's maybe it? Took the red wire off, checked all connections and still the same. It seems like the fuel pump might be getting stuck on too high almost. I figured that might be it because of the fact that's it's hard wired to the solenoid on the back of the carb instead of into the relay.

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The relay was problematic and expensive to replace. All you have to do is connect the fuel pump to a new power supply. The relay was just a safety precaution in the event of an accident and fire. Engine stops... no oil pressure and no alt. charge= no power from the relay.

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Alright well that makes sense then, definitely just bypassed the relay. So does that point toward fuel pump? All other connections are solid and have the points cleaned. I'm just still confused why the battery light would have been coming on.

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Update

Cold started it and it ran perfect, then as it got warm it started idling higher. Fully warm it was back up to at least 1500rpms (no tach yet). Seems like a vacuum leak, I'm just really confused why all of the other things would have happened leading up to the high idle.

A vacuum leak wouldn't cause it to sputter on the highway would it? Or cause an electrical issue? I'm only asking because I've never heard of it causing anything more than high idle or stalling.

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Got it figured out.

IMG_20150309_161456368_zps6adfl6dn.jpg

 

The choke actuator (not sure of specific name) broke so the butterfly plate was rattling around at lower rpms (when slowing down) and causing the choke relay to think it was turning on and off over and over. And then stuck closed on idle so it was always choked. Forgot to take a picture, but I zip tied it to that little actuator so it's stuck open and never choked. I'll just have to manually warm it up until I get one, but I'm back on the road!

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Well it turned out it needed a new pump, so I went forth with it and a filter. I didn't think it would leak gas, but threw the old redneck vice grips on and got to work....then forgot to take pictures until the end.

20150309_203039_zps3n7978ea.jpg

 

I couldn't figure out a way to mount the pump inside the guard without the fuel line being too close to the ground so tomorrow when I've got more light I'll put in a bracket to extent it up and set it up above the guard.

20150309_211434_zpsxdmtphbv.jpg

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So, long story short, when I bought the truck the guy told me the odometer moved if you hit a big bump or even turned hard enough. I've daily driven it for a month now and it's worked totally normal, no moving on bumps or turns. He told me, and on the title, it has 145,000 miles but the odometer reads 505xxx.

IMG_20150311_194856907_zpskuza7dxa.jpg

 

I noticed this window sticker the other day.

IMG_20150311_194906225_zpstfqhiwif.jpg

 

Don't know how I didn't notice it, or if it's all accurate, but bravo little truck if so! It's absolutely been rebuilt if that's accurate because it runs perfect other than a little valve clatter in the first cylinder when the engine is still cold.

I think ~25,000 miles since 2008 seems pretty logical since this was mostly used as an extra truck by the previous owner.

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It is good for another 500,000! LOL Replace the speedometer if it bothers you.

Oh I could really care less. If I get a new cluster with a tach and clock I might even swap it in to keep it with the truck.

 

So I have the choke relay unplugged and the choke butterfly zip tied open because of the little vacuum actuator being busted. Really need to replace that. Previous to it breaking there were no problems, as soon as it broke there was a clicking in the choke relay and the battery light would flicker at lower rpms. With choke relay unplugged and plate zip tied open the battery light is constantly flickering or just always on, mostly at lower rpms but still a flicker here and there while driving. I've heard your battery light is connected to a diode inside the alternator and it can cause current to flow backwards if it fails. Can someone confirm and/or explain more about this? Electrical is not my strong point.

 

Id post a picture but I think all of you have seen a battery light lit...

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Low output from the alternator causes the Red charge light to come on or flicker. Additionally the choke relay needs alternator charge in order to work properly. A poorly charging alternator will cause the choke relay to buzz or chatter.

 

DO NOT replace your alternator until sure it can't be fixed. They are worth over $300 at the dealer and a $50 AutoZone is worth exactly that or usually less. Your Nissan alternator is 5X better than any rebuilt or Chinese junk. Try to fix and keep it or get a used one from a wrecking yard.

 

Low charge rate...

 

Loose belt.

Idle too low

Dirty battery terminals.

Brushes worn out (you used to be able to buy new brushes for about $7) 

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Thanks Mike, I didn't realize the stock alternator is that much better. I'll check around and see if I can find some new brushes and clean all connections to it and the battery. I'll take a picture when I do it tomorrow, but my positive lead on the battery has 3 elbows and has way more length than it should. Also someone used a bike seat clamp... So I'm going to assume that's it for right now.

 

Belts are good and idle is damn near perfect.

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Low output f

 

DO NOT replace your alternator until sure it can't be fixed. They are worth over $300 at the dealer and a $50 AutoZone is worth exactly that or usually less. Your Nissan alternator is 5X better than any rebuilt or Chinese junk. Try to fix and keep it or get a used one from a wrecking yard.

 

 

 

 

true , the last 50 amp i got from autozone it had a 45.00 core charge , I paid it ,  but kept the old one and put it on the shelf .

 

 

 

Belts are good and idle is damn near perfect.

 

are you still workin on the choke ? I might have a piece for you to fix it. you can look threw the pile Saturday . If your still coming by this weekend . 

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I got it set at a good idle, but I would like to fix that little vacuum actuator if you've got one.

I almost want to fork out the money for a new temporary alternator so I can (hopefully) rebuild mine.

 

I'll be there with the heater core in hand!

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Well I have the idle set, new battery terminals, all points cleaned, belts tightened although my power steering pump pulley is a tiny bit bent, almost unnoticeable but makes a little noise. Also have some lifter noise in cylinder one so I'm going to pull the valve cover and adjust them. Hopefully there's no damage...

I'm going to get a new alternator for now and keep the original as a spare until I get around to it. The lights are pretty dim when running, the charge light has gotten brighter, and it causes major static in the speakers.

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I'll need to use that torque wrench, I can help you with yours though since I've done quite a few now. You have to put a new gasket on the valve cover if you have it off to adjust valves/tighten head bolts. My O'Reillys has one in stock so I need to grab it and the alternator. Truck will be solid.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a new alternator a few days ago and it fixed the charging light problem. I'm not sure what the name of it is, but the little wire that comes with the alternator connected to a little diode at one end, was broken on my stock one. I would've just fixed that up and kept using it, but it sounds like there's loose change inside it, so I'm thinking it'll need to be taken apart.

 

Once I get the budget I want to start buying parts for an engine build. Not necessarily for this truck, but plans always change so who knows. I'm really interested in the LZ engines and I'm curious on what my best option would be for a first time build. I want something with more power than a stock z24, but also something I can build on a fairly tight budget.

I've heard the lz22 is the easiest and mostly bolt together, but I've also heard it's not much more than the stock z24 in hp rating.

I'm willing to pay for something to get machined as long as it's worth the power I'll be getting. Any info is greatly appreciated!

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There was a rusty corner in my bed, so this evening I stripped it down to bare metal and sprayed it with a few coats of black to stop the rust, until I do whatever paint I decide to. Also decided to give one of the removable inner bed sides a few coats as well.

My landlord shut off the internet, so I'll post up pics when I get a chance.

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