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Snake pit - rhino built


Rhino13

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Damn that looks great! Don't you think Al is busy enough! LOL

Thanks Charlie! This was on some "down time" haha, I feel lucky to live so close to a Datsaholic.

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The Z24 is 50K overdue for a blown head gasket. Time to re-torque the head bolts. Start with a cold engine, loosen one bolt and immediately tighten to 60 ft lbs then move to the next bolt. One at a time loose and in any order you like. This is recommended by Nissan at every tune up. This will refresh the clamping force on the gasket and prevent it blowing out. The Z24 is well know for doing this.

 

 

 

Putting this back here for my reference because I plan on doing my valve cover and re-torquing the head bolts. I figured since I'm in there I might as well adjust my valves. I did my first 720 with a z22, but that was 3 years ago and I don't remember the order. I think the sticker with the valve lash is still there, but might as well include that too if anyone knows.

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Can't stress this enough... head bolt re-torque is on a COLD engine.

In that case the valves will just have to wait. They don't make any noise, I just figured I'd check on them while I'm in there.

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Ryan..have a shabby haynes manual u can have. found this manual @ the stvinnies car lot @ hw99(cheap).pics crappy, where is my flatbed scanner?

 

P1050719.jpgP1050722.jpgP1050726.jpgP1050727.jpg

That would be excellent! I'll bring something in return for you.

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In that case the valves will just have to wait. They don't make any noise, I just figured I'd check on them while I'm in there.

 

Do valves after head torque after warming engine or head torque after cool down from doing valves.

 

If you have everything ready for setting the valves and use Harlow's posted info you should only have to rotate the engine once to get all of them done before the engine cools off too much.

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Do valves after head torque after warming engine or head torque after cool down from doing valves.

 

If you have everything ready for setting the valves and use Harlow's posted info you should only have to rotate the engine once to get all of them done before the engine cools off too much.

Thanks, my common sense went out the door for a minute there.

Is there a torque rating for the valve cover bolts? I've always done them a little past snug on other engines and been fine, but why not stick to the specifics if I can.

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Thanks, my common sense went out the door for a minute there.

Is there a torque rating for the valve cover bolts? I've always done them a little past snug on other engines and been fine, but why not stick to the specifics if I can.

I use my 3/8 Snap-on stubby wratchet & palm it. A three year old can overtighten those screws! Too tight....distorts mating flange/displaces gasket.

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Retorqued the head bolts, did the valve cover gasket and an oil change. When I was loosening the head bolts they all cracked loose pretty hard, especially the back left one. Got them all to 60 ft lbs though and filled it with Delo. Still have some noise up front, gotta figure what it is.

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Edit: GotChya covered on the oic front^^.

 

Rhino decided to change his oil, and valve cover gasket. As well as re torque the head bolts today. I took the photos and cleaned some shit/held stuff.

 

Valve cover bolts being removed.20150603_184736_HDR_zpsxyjwz1mu.jpg

.20150603_184722_HDR_zps8xin3uhz.jpg

The bolts.20150603_184716_HDR_zps10ueokp7.jpg

 

Draining the oil (it was dark as fuck)20150603_185447_zpsyw99ub9k.jpg

 

Popped the cover off.

20150603_185717_zps9vs36odd.jpg

 

To reveal.... Everything SUPER clean!

20150603_185743_zpswhdjubls.jpg

 

Valve cover cleaned up a bit while rhino cleaned the mating surface on the head of rtv and dirt.20150603_200826_zps8vgsmzsu.jpg

 

Rhino giving the head bolts a re-torque. (60ft lbs)20150603_201708_zpswav26wdj.jpg

 

Is it normal for the head bolts to make a loud "snap" when breaking them free before re-torque? A decent bang to get them loose.

 

Replacing the valve cover with a new gasket.20150603_202621_zpsectu9qxh.jpg

 

And filling it back up with Delo-400 oil (15w40) ~4.25 quarts.

20150603_203037_zpszfigztik.jpg

 

Thats all for now. im doing all the same stuff on my truck tomorrow, including clutch, brake, and diff fluids.

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The snap when breaking loose is normal.

 

Re-torque that head once a year. This is the factory recommendation to keep the head gasket from blowing. The original owner may have done this for the time he owned it but the secondhand owner probably just drove it like most. Later owners tend to just drive them and get their money out of a vehicle. When the gasket blows they can't fix or don't want to spend anything on it and scrap or give away. It's really a shame.

 

BTW... nice clean engine inside. 

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That's my philosophy too. First owner = factory maintenance, second owner = maybe some garage maint, third and beyond = all bets are off.

 

Be sure to pull the radiator cap when doing a retorque so pressurized coolant doesn't ruin the seal on the head gasket. And never retorque hot.

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That's my philosophy too. First owner = factory amintenance, second owner = maybe some garage maint, third and beyond = all bets are off.

 

Be sure to pull the radiator cap when doing a retorque so pressurized coolant doesn't ruin the seal on the head gasket. And never retorque hot.

Totally didn't think to depressurize the radiator, hopefully there's no damage to the head gasket. The engine was cold and there's no sign of water in the new oil.

 

 

Thanks datzenmike! If this thing really does have the 500k that the odometer reads, the previous owners had to do some amount of work. But you guys both got it spot on about the last owner, he did nothing besides let his dogs ruin the seats and make it smell like wet dog, oh and somehow hit a camp trailer going 5mph... Demolished the camper, bent the core support back, put a new radiator in and called it good.

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Got fluids changed and u joints done. My truck is ready for Canby!!! I won't get it on before then, but I picked up a Weber 32/36 from Harlow today. Need to rebuild it and get some clips but otherwise it's solid, thanks again Harlow! Does anyone know if you can buy new butterfly's and the shafts that hold them in? I want to remove the bigger one on bottom because it barely moves, so it needs a good cleaning, but I know those small screw's break easy so I figured I'd just replace them.

IMG_20150607_213754325_zpsmxqjdqj8.jpg

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Ended up taking the carb apart last night and I got the butterfly's and their shafts out without damage! However, the choke plates were stuck open with a small piece of zip tie because the connector on the end of the shaft is broken off, so it's disconnected from the choke. So what I'm asking is, can I remove the choke and choke butterfly's without any issues? My choke is broken on my stock carb so I'm already used to using my foot as the choke.

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Rad pressure, if any, shouldn't affect this as only one bolt at a time is loosened and then tightened.

Shouldn't in theory, but it can. I've witnessed it.

 

Besides, it's a good idea to minimize all potential problems when doing any job. That's why Home Depot closes of a whole aisle when pulling something off the shelf.

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I've got some carb dip if you want to soak that thing for a few hours and get it nice and clean.

I'm borrowing Brohemius' later today, it'll get a nice long bath. Thank you for the offer though, it's much appreciated!

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Since you have the throttle shaft out already, might be a good time to install throttle shaft bearings. The shaft rides on the carb body and over time the body gets worn and causes vacuum leaks and shaft wobble and other issues. The bearings fix or prevent that issue because the bear the load. The carb body is cast for them and they even come installed on some race versions of the carbs.

 

Here's a link to them if you're interested.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5949

 

YouTube also has a couple install videos that discuss the benefits of them.

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