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Rhino13

Snake pit - rhino built

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Some marriage advice. Figurwe out what will fit and what will work on your truck NOW. This will avoid the problem of you falling in love with some bling rim that doesn't work and you trying to modify the truck to make it fit. I see this all the time and it never ends well. Marry within your species

Haha I like your analogy. Thanks for the tip though, and not to worry this is something I've already considered. Denkmark boy is helping me find some wheels and his "Road Dog" 720 has a similar setup to what I'm looking for. A little bit wider for the profile and a bigger rim so a flat doesn't tear my undercarriage apart.

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Dang that truck looks better !  Now you just need to give that thing a good bath and wax .  :poke:

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Well I did the entire cab last night and had to finish with a headlamp, and woke up to a layer of frost. So here's before waxing:

IMG_20150228_174232296_zpsncadlawt.jpg

 

I'll post finished when the bed is done.

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Looks really good man!

 

Motivating me to get mine looking that good!

 

 

So you have 205's on all four?

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Looks really good man!

 

Motivating me to get mine looking that good!

 

 

So you have 205's on all four?

Thanks man! It's coming along, still needs a few things...

Right now the rear is 205 front is 195. Later this week I'm getting a set of Weld Racing 16" wheels. They're either 205 or 215, I'll let you know when I grab them.

If you look up where I posted the lowering process I put pictures of where it sits on the tires. I can pm you some when I throw the new wheels on to give you a idea.

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And waxed!

IMG_20150303_104955403_HDR_zpsmpsfqs5o.j

 

New wheels and tires later this week, and I need to put a clear coat on that fender and the valance. Also really need to replace that big bushing that holds the bearing where the drive shaft splits. I know some of it is wheel vibration because of all the tires being out of balance, but I can feel it shake when I go into 5th around 60mph.

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Got the new wheels on!

IMG_20150305_141415887_HDR_zpsanb78suk.j

 

They are 225/60r16 and they just BARELY don't rub. Denmark boy rolled the back fenders quite a bit then I kept going a bit more. Still want to do the front and more on the back but it's not rubbing so I called it a day. My rear springs are really worn out, so I'm considering just keeping the fenders where I have them and getting a new (used) set off of one that still sits right.

 

Also removed the Nissan logo on the console to find that Nissan was just clipped over Datsun! I cut it out to install gauges though. Gave both pieces a good fresh coat of black. The part that holds the gauges was tan. Can someone help me out with the location of the plug for the batt/oil gauges? I've located all the plugs visible to me with blue tape and none of them are the right size/shape.

IMG_20150306_240126221_zpsopyhsow4.jpg

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That looks really good.... What size are the wheels all around 16x?

Thank you! I'm really glad with how it's turning out. Yeah they're 16's on 225 tires. Not sure on the backspacing, I can measure if you're curious.

 

 

More pictures!

Here's where the rear sits completely maxed out with weight. If you can't tell, that's about a half inch of clearance.

IMG_20150306_093811398_zpsmhw9qf63.jpg

 

Also got the console back together with gauges and it looks pretty sweet, although I need help on the location of the plug for them.

IMG_20150306_093729318_HDR_zpspo063sg1.j

 

Getting a crack free dash soon, new corner running lights, and a few other small things. Does anyone have any tips for what to do with the empty space when removing the bumper on 83 and up trucks?

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See the plug in the center of the photo next to the blue tape, that is the gauge plug, it's right against the firewall.

DSCN4216.JPG

You also need the pigtail that you can see in the photo below hanging from the plug, it has two plugs  on the gauge end.

DSCN4214.JPG

Did you get the sensor you need to make the oil pressure gauge work?

The sensor is the thing just above the oil filter in this photo below that has the rubber piece on the end of it with the yellow wire coming out of it, it is a bitch to get in and out of there, plus you need to find the plug in the engine bay harness, this is all kinda a pain unless you have the intake manifold off, although you might be able to do it from the bottom with the oil filter removed.

DSCN0768.JPG

Here is a better photo of the sensor on a diesel engine I had.

DSCN0784.JPG

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Thanks for the pictures wayno. I do have the pigtail but not the sensor. I will keep an eye out for one.

I'm assuming it's behind the heater core?

 

So as of yesterday whenever I hit the brakes there's a little sound like wires arcing from the passenger side firewall, and the battery light flickers. Any ideas on what could be happening?

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Thanks for the pictures wayno. I do have the pigtail but not the sensor. I will keep an eye out for one.

I'm assuming it's behind the heater core?

 

So as of yesterday whenever I hit the brakes there's a little sound like wires arcing from the passenger side firewall, and the battery light flickers. Any ideas on what could be happening?

It's kinda behind the tube going from the heater core to the blower motor, if you know what your feeling for, you might be able to get it connected to the pigtail, but no one has succeeded yet and posted about it.

The sensor has to be removed with a wrench, if you try to twist it off with your hand, it will just ruin it. 

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Are the sensors interchangeable between z24 and z22? And do they go in same spot? I know of an 81 with the gauges, top end of the engine is gone but it's been covered. I might snag the remainder so I can stash it away for an LZ23 build and have the sensor for my current truck.

 

Any ideas on my electrical issue when braking? The only thing I can think of is we hammered in the wheel wells a bit on both sides, but mostly just to fold down all the sharp edges.

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I just grab any sensor that is easy to get to when I need one, if the truck has the gauges, I suspect it is the same sensor on any year.

When you snag the sensor, look real close at the harness and where the plug is, as you need to find that plug in your harness, I would not grab any sensor that has a connection that looks like anything other than a "T" unless it is the same year of vehicle that you have.

 

I don't know the napZ harness very well, I just used my first one in the last couple months in one of my builds, I don't think I will use another one again, there is a lot of crap on them that I have no idea why it is even there, I have no idea why your brake light comes on, I just had a thought though, check the level of the fluid in your brake reservoir.

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I'll keep that in mind when I go grab it. I can see what you mean in the picture you posted of one unplugged.

 

It's the battery light that flickers and when I just drove it, it seemed like it may have even been when I slow down, not braking. But I really don't know, it's hard to tell. I looked at the connections that are all tucked in there and none of them look burned or even dirty at all.

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I don't know why I thought I seen brake light, you said the battery light(I just reread the first inquiry), I have no idea about your battery light, Dmike and others know more about that stuff than I do, I would check the fusible links first, that is the black plug coming off the battery in the photo below, that plug has caused me a lot of headaches.

DSCN3998.JPG

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Thanks again for all the info wayno, I'm going to check it out in the morning because unfortunately my fuel pump is crapping out. It's been rattling quite a bit lately and was bogging really bad on the highway. Everyone has told me to try filters first, but either way the pump rattles and has sounded like it was chugging rather than flowing...

I'm looking at it right when I wake up, so I'll post results if no one has any other ideas on the electrical issue previously mentioned.

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I believe there is a fuel relay by the glove box/kick panel, it's black I think.

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Would the fuel pump relay cause the battery light to flicker when it clicked?

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I have no idea, I have a weber on my engine, that relay has been removed, and the pump runs full time now.

Would the fuel pump relay cause the battery light to flicker when it clicked?

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Would the fuel pump relay cause the battery light to flicker when it clicked?

 

What came first the chicken? or the egg?

 

One of the requirements for the fuel pump relay to be ON... is that the alternator is charging. Seems like if the alternator light is flickering then the relay may just be following it.

 

The charge lamp has battery on one side and alternator output on the other. Both will be close to 12 volts so there is no current flow through the lamp. If the alternator fails to produce a charge, current will flow from the battery through the alternator to ground and the lamp will light.

 

I would look for a loose wire on the alternator, maybe the plastic plug on the back? Another is the Black? fusible link near the positive terminal of the battery. 

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Fusible link is fine, terminals are fine. However, I came across a few things...

First off, there is a red wire on the back of the alternator that is cut and just hanging. There's a different wire connecting the fuel pump to a little relay looking thing that clips onto the throttle cable holder. Definitely put on by someone with a 15amp fuse in the middle.

IMG_20150307_104243370_HDR_zpssaxlv4xi.j

 

After that I realized on the plug for the fuel pump relay was missing one of the wires, or at least seemed to be...not sure if it's supposed to.

IMG_20150307_104459289_zpszovlsla0.jpg

 

And here's the relay for side by side reference.

IMG_20150307_104514488_HDR_zpsz3ptvg5z.j

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Drove it and now the clicking is gone, so the battery light isn't coming on. But now it's idling at 2000 rpms... Tried adjusting the mixture screw and it did nothing until I had it completely closed. I'm stumped. Didn't touch any vacuum lines, and only unplugged one thing at a time to clean.

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