Rhino13 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Just curious, why unbolt exhaust only if you have a header? Thanks for the info, it looks like those bottles will be added to a shelf to sit. What's funny is a couple buddies of mine who claim to be "professional" BMW mechanics (they chop cars from the 80's to build drift cars), and they said to never use it because it could break away carbon holding the head gasket together. Which always lead me to ask, "then why the hell wouldn't you do a rebuild and get rid of build up altogether?" But again, these guys are Pros...ha ha 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 I've owned a couple cars that I was afraid to seafoam because I was sure that shite in the motor is what held the motor together :-) but there was no way I was spending the money to fix it. So I drove it and ignored it 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 It was great to meet you yesterday at the work party for the Canby truck . The next generation of datsun lovers is alive and growing ! P.S. you have to take pictures of it dented also , it's a lot more fun for us to see how far it's comes . Cause you know it's all about us & Pics :poke: I'll take pictures today. I want to drop it asap since I'm getting that new front end tomorrow. I'm going to do 3" blocks, I'm not too worried about being able to carry huge loads with this truck. Maybe once I stock up a few more ha ha Charlie, I totally get it from the standpoint of just not messing with something that's not broken. But I like to clean everything up as best I can :) 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Adjust your brakes before installing the lowering blocks. 3 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Can you explain? Wasn't aware of that. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Can you explain? Wasn't aware of that. It's a lot harder to access the adjustment hole once the lowering blocks are in, not impossible, just harder to do the adjustment. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 It's a lot harder to access the adjustment hole once the lowering blocks are in, not impossible, just harder to do the adjustment. So there's no adjustment that needs to be done for the lowering, you guys are saying that I should adjust them before so they are good? Sorry if something is going over my head. 1 Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 wait......720's aren't self adj? thought they were by then...... 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Also picked these up this evening. Last pair at autozone! I'm going to do my best to post up exterior pictures tomorrow BEFORE I clean it or lower it. Denmarkboy told me the importance of the full build photos even from dirty to clean today, so I'll get on it. 3 Quote Link to comment
petercscherer Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Yeah, ya learn quick that Ratsun members love Oics!!! ~Peter 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Yes I think after 1984 720 brakes are self adjusting. You ad 30 years of rust, dirt, and brake debris and yes maybe they will self adjust. I have never depended on self adjusting brakes. Great theory but I rely on me adjusting them and then when I need the brakes to work properly they do. Another point to consider is in 30 years how many people might have taken the brakes apart. Now how many of these people were actually able to put the brakes back together correctly and have them function properly. How many used vehicles have you seen extra parts behind the seat. in the bed, or in the glove box. These were put there by the conscientious people that could not get them put together correctly. The other people throw the parts away! The reason I said adjust the brakes before installing the blocks is like Wayno said it is difficult to adjust them after installing the blocks. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 The reason I said adjust the brakes before installing the blocks is like Wayno said it is difficult to adjust them after installing the blocks. I got that part of it. My question is do I need to adjust them because I am lowering my truck? (Functionality-wise) or simply because it is a pain in the ass to do it with the blocks on? I feel like I'm honoring my newbie title right now... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 He was just suggesting you adjust them when it is easy to do. I would not trust the automatic adjusting system to work in any vehicle, they just get so dirty and rusty inside the drum that they cannot move under normal circumstances like when you hit the brake going backwards, as that is when the brakes self adjust, when was the last time you hit the brakes going backwards with any authority, never??? 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I think I met you kind of.. at the work party. I think and your friend took off as I got there in the white tacoma. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Thanks for the clarification wayno. I'll definitely do the adjustment in the morning before I install the blocks. Interesting how you "self adjust" them going backwards, I've definitely never slammed the brakes in reverse. I did lock them up a few times and skid to a stop a few times right after I got it ha ha. They're really nice brakes actually! But I'd rather adjust them and have the self assurance they're good to go. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I think I met you kind of.. at the work party. I think and your friend took off as I got there in the white tacoma. Yeah I remember seeing you. The giveaway truck is looking so killer! My truck will also look much different (better) next time you hopefully see it! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 The adjuster is a ratchet mechanism. When the travel of the shoes is above the next notch on the star wheel the adjustor bares on it and it is turned ever so slightly and shoe travel is reduced. I remember 60s cars were supposidly adjusted by backing up but unless the shoe travel is farther in reverse than forward it shouldn't matter. Shoe travel is shoe travel, the shoes don't know forward from reverse, they only know out and in from the wheel cylinder and the return springs. The self adjusters were introduced in '82.5 on the 720. A friend showed me the coke bottle full of water trick back in the '60s on his 283. He uncapped the headers and the crap blew all over the driveway where you could see it. . 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 So technically, assuming they are still working (for the sake of my knowledge), every time I go forward from reverse or vise versa, they adjust themselves? When I saw you said it was ratcheting I pulled out a memory of completely taking apart the rear end on an 89 Ranger I had. It was a huge pain in the ass and I highly discourage anyone from those trucks. There's no fill cap/hole for the rear axle and rear diff. I guess Ford assumed once it's done you trash the vehicle? I talked to my dad last night about the water trick and he's done it in a Z car he used to have. So I trashed the idea of getting new rims and tires because my cash flow is limited. So I've been exploring my options, and I'm going to keep it stock mostly. I'm painting the rim itself black, and leaving the cap and beauty ring gray. I want to get 1-2" wheel spacers so they are closer to flush with the side of the truck. Does anyone have experience with wheel spacers? Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 More progress on the truck! Got it lowered about 2 1/2" up front and went with 3" in the rear. Rides about an inch above the bump stop but it's smooth and feels great driving around, setting aside the fact that I have to dodge every little divet in the road. Starting the day off Rallye status U bolts off all dirty All cleaned up Blocks in place, sorry for the out of focus Rear profile Front profile, painting the wheels black but keeping the beauty ring and center cap original. Also going to 205's all around, these 195's up front are too small. So one of the nuts was hard to thread on to one of the ends on a u bolt. I got it on about half an inch before I would've had to torque on it and ruin the threads. Limped it to work a few blocks away with everything besides that one bolt done. After work limped it to autozone to replace it and the bolt locked itself. Eventually got it off with a breaker bar I luckily had but it took us almost two hours to get it all set and done in the parking lot... And the final product from earlier in the day when it was being limped around (it drove perfect but I didn't go over 30mph) getting new front end parts from denmarkboy sometime soon so it'll look complete! I also cleaned up some visors from denmarkboy, still need a bit of scrubbing but one paper towel with simple green does a lot. Thanks again for hooking it up! It's coming along! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 So technically, assuming they are still working (for the sake of my knowledge), every time I go forward from reverse or vise versa, they adjust themselves? Only when the shoe wears down. This increases the shoe travel enough that the adjuster travels past the star wheel. When the brakes are released the adjuster returns but catches the star wheel and turns it slightly which moves the shoe outward reducing the travel and restoring the brake setting. This attempt to adjust occurs every time you use your brakes not just backing up. I want to get 1-2" wheel spacers so they are closer to flush with the side of the truck. Does anyone have experience with wheel spacers? You would also need to replace the wheel studs with longer ones. That's 24 of them at $5 ? or more each plus the spacers. I would hold off on this. Eventually you will be replacing the tires with something wider and the rims can also be replaced with a different off set or back spacing that gets you more flush. Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 More progress on the truck! Got it lowered about 2 1/2" up front and went with 3" in the rear. Rides about an inch above the bump stop but it's smooth and feels great driving around, setting aside the fact that I have to dodge every little divet in the road. Starting the day off Rallye status U bolts off all dirty All cleaned up Blocks in place, sorry for the out of focus Rear profile Front profile, painting the wheels black but keeping the beauty ring and center cap original. Also going to 205's all around, these 195's up front are too small. So one of the nuts was hard to thread on to one of the ends on a u bolt. I got it on about half an inch before I would've had to torque on it and ruin the threads. Limped it to work a few blocks away with everything besides that one bolt done. After work limped it to autozone to replace it and the bolt locked itself. Eventually got it off with a breaker bar I luckily had but it took us almost two hours to get it all set and done in the parking lot... And the final product from earlier in the day when it was being limped around (it drove perfect but I didn't go over 30mph) getting new front end parts from denmarkboy sometime soon so it'll look complete! I also cleaned up some visors from denmarkboy, still need a bit of scrubbing but one paper towel with simple green does a lot. Thanks again for hooking it up! It's coming along! hell yes dude looking much better ! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Any lowering or raising will affect the front camber and toe alignment. The more you lower the more it changes. Toe isn't that noticable on dry pavement but it wears the ties fast and unevenly. I found my truck would turn normally into a corner (like a driveway) but then the wheel would almost turn in more by itself. On wet pavement if one wheel hit a puddle the truck would dart over to that side. Parked in the driveway if a crossed the street and lookd at, it the two front wheels were pointed right at me they were that far out. You seem kind of a hands on guy so take a look in my 710 goon build thread. I have a way to check/adjust the toe in. Takes some time but costs nothing. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Wheel spacers would require longer studs, wheel adapters have new studs in them and bolt to your old studs, the wheel bolts to the new studs. A basic set starts around $60 for two $100 for four 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 Not doing wheel spacers. Just waiting until I find a good deal on rims and tires. More work today... Front end torn down to be replaced Getting sexier by the minute Pretty damn good if you look at how rough the core support is I bought the truck 20 days ago for $800, threw $200 into parts and spent a few hours here and there with a HUGE help from denmarkboy. Thanks again! Before After 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 Not doing wheel spacers. Just waiting until I find a good deal on rims and tires. Some marriage advice. Figurwe out what will fit and what will work on your truck NOW. This will avoid the problem of you falling in love with some bling rim that doesn't work and you trying to modify the truck to make it fit. I see this all the time and it never ends well. Marry within your species 1 Quote Link to comment
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