datzenmike Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Middle is the thrust bearing. It's a different shape than the others. Try pushing the crank forward and back. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Had a long day yesterday so I didn't get anything else done, I'll have the bottom end apart tonight with pictures. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Keep all rod and crank caps in order. Posting this for my reference, the caps are numbered from front to back with arrows pointing to the front of the engine. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 I take sandwich baggies and label them like "main cap 1" and put the cap and its hardware in that. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 I take sandwich baggies and label them like "main cap 1" and put the cap and its hardware in that. Got that covered already :D 1 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 I'm sure you got a good deal from Al, BUT, looking at the inside of this block scares me. I wouldn't trust it. Personally, I would find a different KA and start with that. Keep your stuff for parts that are broke, worn out or just missing. You may find that your crank is in perfect condition and your other is toast. Either way, you talking about a complete rebuild at this pioint. Any reputable machinist should try like hell to get you out of THAT block. It's only worth it's weight in scrap. It is super cheap, like $50 to have a machinist inspect all your parts for worthiness. They will inspect the journals on your crank, the diameter of the big and small ends of the rods as well as the taper in the cyliders. And of coarse, the size of all mentioned. A block really should be tested for any cracks. It would suck to build an engine only to find out when you first start it that there is a crack in your water jacket. GAME OVER! 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 As Jester said I would source another block. Save the pistons and all the other parts. If you use that block and the epoxy patch falls out going down the hi-way you would most likely loose the engine do to oil loss. Rhino how is Al doing? 2 Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 As said ,,, in the pictures the journals "look" in great shape,,, but man that rust scale should scare you... i does me. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 I got all the pistons out but left to take advantage of the harbor freight sale so I didn't get any pictures. They're in pretty decent shape from what I can tell, but the 3rd pistons rod cap was really hard to get off and I noticed it has a small nick in it right next to one of the bolt holes and the hole is slightly misshapen. All of the crank journals look good, the middle cap with the thrust bearing had a few small marks in it but nothing in the crank itself. He is getting me a new block as soon as he can, but it just depends on when another one comes around his buddy's yard. He's good, still trying to organize all of his Datsun parts spread wildly around his shop during the Canby build haha 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 Here's the pistons, #1 is on the right. Decided I'd do more work to parts I'll for sure be using Intake ports all looked the same, pretty good Exhaust ports were all the same, valves were pretty dirty Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Got the wheels, I have to get some new rubber before I actually put them on because they're way too wide and a little too tall, but I lined them up and got a pretty good shot of what it'll look like 1 Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 You live in the Blair witch projects?? 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Pretty much, it's the street right between the crack head streets. I have a crack head lady that rakes my entire parking area in exchange for some buds. Half way through she always starts cussing at the rake and throws it on the ground multiple times, but hey, my walk is always clean! 3 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 Well unfortunately I won't be getting a ka anymore because of the yard miscommunicating to Al they had another. On another note I've been thinking about selling my 720 to get a 620 or 521. I was looking through Craigslist a bit and texted Draker to see if he had any leads and he reminded me Al had another 620 and 521 shell. So long story short I will be getting a white 521 with an l18 and will still have my 720 as my daily driver! I'll start a build thread once it's in my hands. 3 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 Keep both! 2 Datsuns are worth having to work two jobs if necessary! LOL Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 Yeah I plan on driving the 720 until the 521 is solid enough to drive, then I may sell my 720 to my neighbor. I have another car so I have the backup I need :) 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Replaced the plugs and wires today and it runs much smoother All the plugs were about the same, pretty gunked up, couldn't get a better picture in the dark Engine bay is dirty as hell but maybe the new plugs and wires will motivate me I plan on doing the intake and exhaust manifold gasket pretty soon, and I'm thinking about doing the head gasket but I haven't had any problems that would indicate it being necessary so I'll probably hold off for now. I was also listening closely to the noise it's always made that me and a few others concluded to be timing chain noise, but I realized it's loudest in the middle on the exhaust side of the head. I haven't checked valve clearances but it sounds like it could be valve noise. I'm just curious what could be making that noise but not affect performance at all? If the timing chain was making a lot of noise would it affect performance? 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 No, not really. Weird that the noise seems louder on the exhaust side.. maybe the chain guide on that side is broken. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Does it make sense for the noise to go away at higher rpms with a timing chain issue? 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Yeah, higher oil pressure on the tensioner. I bet it doesn't go away completely if you listen close or with a stethoscope. I'm battling a similar issue with my L20. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Yeah it never fully goes away, but it's definitely much quiter when I'm accelerating then comes back a little more once I keep it consistent. A timing set is in the near future anyway, so it'll get a bunch of new stuff soon here. Once the 521 block goes to the machine shop I will do some work on this so it stays reliable for me. I've been lazy and still haven't made my driveshaft spacer, although I did get the metal for it! 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 I'm going to order a timing set and get that taken care of. It'll be my first time chaining timing gear, so I've got some questions. When disassembling the ka I had for a bit, the timing cover took off little pieces of the head gasket that were very thin, so should I just go ahead and do a head gasket as well in case that happens? The ka had been sitting outside with water all over in it and my z24 is actually in pretty good shape, but I'm fairly certain it hasn't had a head gasket, the records I do have don't show one. Since I'm doing all the timing components I don't need to block the chain for any reason, right? The ka timing components were all broken and some of it was in the pan so it was really loose when I took it apart. I plan on doing the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets as I know there's a slight exhaust leak and it'll make doing the head gasket easier, if I need to do it. Are there any other things anyone would suggest I do while I have it apart this much? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 Can't read the boxes but there are two heat ranges used on the Z series engines. The plug closest the exhaust valve is colder. Use BPR5ES on the exhaust side. BPR6ES on the intake The Nissan instruction for preventing the head gasket failure is to re-torque the head bolts every tune up. It's easy, just be sure the engine is cold. Loosen one plug at a time and tighten it to 60 ft lbs. Then move to the next bolt, loosen then tighten to 60- ft lbs. You can do in any order you like but always one bolt loose at a time! It's common for engine noise to lessen as it revs up. Does the oil need changing? Are you using 15 W 40 Delo 400 or Rotella T? Adjust the valve clearance!!! 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 Can't read the boxes but there are two heat ranges used on the Z series engines. The plug closest the exhaust valve is colder. Use BPR5ES on the exhaust side. BPR6ES on the intake The Nissan instruction for preventing the head gasket failure is to re-torque the head bolts every tune up. It's easy, just be sure the engine is cold. Loosen one plug at a time and tighten it to 60 ft lbs. Then move to the next bolt, loosen then tighten to 60- ft lbs. You can do in any order you like but always one bolt loose at a time! It's common for engine noise to lessen as it revs up. Does the oil need changing? Are you using 15 W 40 Delo 400 or Rotella T? Adjust the valve clearance!!! I made sure the guy at the auto parts store marked each box intake or exhaust so I didn't mix it up. I retorqued all the head bolts to 60ft/lbs last time I changed the valve cover gasket. The oil has been changed multiple times in the last year with delo 400 and the noise never got any quieter, although I do need to adjust the valves still... I'm off sick today so I'll go out and do it if I start feeling better. I know there's a hot or cold adjustment, but it's better to do hot right? 1 Quote Link to comment
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