Charlie69 Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 Rhino The rule of thumb I have always used in the past for lowering the rear of a vehicle is: 1" Drop = 1/4" spacer under the carrier bearing 2" Drop = 1/2" 3" Drop = 3/4" 4" Drop = 1" This in no means is set in stone just what has worked for me in the past. As Mike said and pictured the angle of the drive line must be the same on both ends for optimum vibration free movement. Rhino try the 1" tubing you have for the spacer as the formulas above is also depend on outside diameter of tire. 3 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 Thanks Charlie! Got the motor on the stand and partially taken apart, but I need to find something to block the chain so I can take the head off. Never done it before so any input is appreciated. Also have a few questions about the motor. Now to go through it in pictures, the engine in its home for a while Manifold pretty much stripped down Intake removed Exhaust removed Pretty clean water passage The oil pump shaft has a gouge in it, will that mess with anything? This bolt was in the bottom of the timing cover when I pulled the oil pump, does it go somewhere under the cover or was it dropped through the top from somewhere else? I mocked up the L series distributor Looks pretty good under the valve cover after wiping it down a little Now this is my biggest concern, to me it looks like a patch in the block... I was only planning on putting new gaskets in it but it looks like I'm going to have to pull the bottom end apart and possibly look for a new block. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 Welding cast would be tough.. but not impossible. Are you sure someone didn't just try to clean it? I would pull the oil pan and see what's doin from the inside out. Also regarding the chain block.. if you're pulling the head and presumably the pan.. I wouldn't worry about blocking the chain to much. If you plan on reusing the timing components, put it at TDC on the compression stroke and mark the chain on the crank and cam sprockets. But these motors have been known to have timing chain noise issues.. so I would at least replace the timing chain guides if they don't look like they are brand new already. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 It's a really hard epoxy from what I can tell. I will pull the pan tomorrow and see what's going on in there. I am going to get a timing set for it, it's worn out. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 It's a really hard epoxy from what I can tell. I will pull the pan tomorrow and see what's going on in there. I am going to get a timing set for it, it's worn out. Then I wouldn't worry about blocking the chain at all. Pull the oil pan, pull the timing cover, pull the chain, pull the head. Regarding the block, if it is epoxy.. or something then get a spare block. That just sounds like trouble.. If the epoxy expands/contracts at different rates.. which is likely, it could leak. However.... maybe from the inside it's okay. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 That funky bolt you pulled out of the oil pan is a bolt on the timing assembly. It goes under the timing cover. You will likely have to get some timing components as well. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 More updates, I'll post pictures later. I decided to take everything off tonight to look into that apoxy spot from the inside and its all the way through. It's not a very big spot but it's still a hole. Also that bolt for the timing assembly has smooth threads and the threads are pretty much gone in the block. Looks like I'll be getting a new block... I've heard you can use a z24 block, z22 crank, ka24e pistons and head to make a pretty good motor. What are the differences in the heads of a ka and z24? 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 Here's the inside of the block where the apoxy is Threads on timing assembly bolt pretty much gone The hole is should fit into, threads are pretty much gone from there too. The internals look alright from the bottom, top of the pistons look alright aside from a bunch of carbon buildup And one last picture of the head after I sprayed it down with degreaser a bit 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 Well.. looks like you've got some good parts there. I don't think sourcing a blown KA will be hard to do. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 I mean.. for the block. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Epoxy lines up with rod cap. May have replacement crank and rod. These engine are select fit bearings and such from the maker. Probably has bearing size stamped on crank throw. That's fine if it was assembled properly but seeing timing chain parts in the pan scares me. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Epoxy lines up with rod cap. May have replacement crank and rod. These engine are select fit bearings and such from the maker. Probably has bearing size stamped on crank throw. That's fine if it was assembled properly but seeing timing chain parts in the pan scares me.Are to saying it'd be fine to run it with the apoxy? It is right in line with the first cylinders rod. The timing chain parts were in the bottom of the timing cover, just that one bolt was sitting there and the tensioner arm had dropped down a bit so it wasn't lined up with the tensioner, the pan is clean other than the water/oil mix from being left outside. I got the head taken apart a bit and there's a few small surface rust areas on the cam, nothing that looks like it would affect anything. Rocker arms and shafts are in good shape. Haven't pulled the springs and valves yet, but from what I can tell they're all in perfectly fine shape. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Can't think of anything else that would hole the block than a rod. I assume it was running when pulled so the epoxy is sealing the hole. I wouldn't race it but you can run it. The dirty valve train is lack of proper oil and filter changes. That would indicate disregard for keeping the oil topped up leading to a thrown rod? At work, must go... 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 I'm not sure if it was running when pulled, but it had definitely been run with the apoxy on it. I don't plan on racing it, so I probably will throw it together that way I can run it until I find another complete motor to actually build. Good point, it was definitely not maintained correctly, the entire inside is caked in build up. I'm going to pull the bottom end apart tonight to make sure nothing it wrong, it spins smooth with no noise but I actually already pulled the crank bearing caps so I can't really turn back now haha. Thanks for the info datzenmike, makes me feel better that it's not scrap. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 You could plasti-gauge it and see what the clearances are. Post some pictures of the crank journals. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Keep all rod and crank caps in order. 2 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 As well as which hole the pistons came out of, and the direction they were facing. LOTS OF PICTURES. Not only for us, but for you too. They will help with reassembly. 2 Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Here's the inside of the block where the apoxy is Threads on timing assembly bolt pretty much gone The hole is should fit into, threads are pretty much gone from there too. The internals look alright from the bottom, top of the pistons look alright aside from a bunch of carbon buildup Looks like engines that have sat in or were full of water at one point ,, to me. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Are to saying it'd be fine to run it with the apoxy? It is right in line with the first cylinders rod. The timing chain parts were in the bottom of the timing cover, just that one bolt was sitting there and the tensioner arm had dropped down a bit so it wasn't lined up with the tensioner, the pan is clean other than the water/oil mix from being left outside. I got the head taken apart a bit and there's a few small surface rust areas on the cam, nothing that looks like it would affect anything. Rocker arms and shafts are in good shape. Haven't pulled the springs and valves yet, but from what I can tell they're all in perfectly fine shape. 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Nailed it 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 As well as which hole the pistons came out of, and the direction they were facing. LOTS OF PICTURES. Not only for us, but for you too. They will help with reassembly. As long as the pistons stay on the rods you're ok, they and their matching rod caps are numbered. Pistons have a dot or punch mark on the outer top edge to the front of the engine. 3 Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Nailed it I got caught skimming text that time.. :blush: i do better with less words :D 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Aint no one got time for words 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 i do better with less words :D I can't get the middle bearing cap off the crank so I haven't removed any of the rod caps yet. I cleaned up the head a bit earlier though 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Those look pretty decent. 1 Quote Link to comment
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