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comparing new clutch to old clutch


lynchfourtwenty

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Looks to me like you needed a new clutch :D

 

The new one looks to be a bit more performance oriented than the origional. As long as it's the same dimensionally (friction surfaces and bolt locations), you should be good to go.

 

To get flywheels off, I use a flat bar about 1" x 6" long with a hole in one end for a pressure plate (PP) bolt. Bolt it to the fly wheel at a PP bolt hole, use another PP bolt at the next postion to hold the plate in position (sticking out fron the flywheel). Stick a tranny bolt back in the block and rotate the motor until the plate is locked between the tranny bolt and the second PP bolt. Break the flywheel bolts loose.

You can use the same method to torque the flywheel bolts back down after resurfacing.

 

Hope that makes sense.

 

...and you can use a wrench in place of the flat bar, but I have broken a wrench or 2 that way. :P

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i think i get the idea redeye.. i was actually thinkin.. hmm how can i wedge this bastard in place.. haha..

 

ya know i was thinkin this new clutch is alot tougher then the old one.. everything seems thicker and beefier.. all bolt holes line up.. the clutch discs are the same size around.. oh i went an fiddled with my old TB an that thing spins like a skateboard wheel.. sounds like one too.. wonder what my pilot bushing is gonna look like i havent takin it out yet.. this clutch has got to be old as hell.. between me an the p.o beatin on it, im suprised i didnt have to replace it sooner.. no wonder my truck lost its pull in the higher rpm range.. engine would rev out but didnt seem like it was pullin.. altho it was still mildy quick.. i cant wait to get this tranny in.. its has a slight closer ratio in 1st an 2nd an with a good clutch it should pull nice..

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Soap. Search 'hydraulic method' for a bit more info if what's below doesn't make sense.

 

Smash some bar soap in the hole. Use your clutch alignment tool in the hole and hit it with a rubber mallet to smash the soap in some more. Pack more soap in there, hit the alignment tool and hammer. Eventually the soap will push out the bushing. Scrape out the soap install your new bushing.

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more like a hydrolic jack. i have heard of using bearing grease (vw trick) but then cleaning it up is kindof a pain. also the wrench method fvor pulling the flywheel is the cost effective way. but use a heavy wrench. soemthing with a lifetime warranty. that way if it breaks take it back and get a new one.

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more like a hydrolic jack. i have heard of using bearing grease (vw trick) but then cleaning it up is kindof a pain. also the wrench method fvor pulling the flywheel is the cost effective way. but use a heavy wrench. soemthing with a lifetime warranty. that way if it breaks take it back and get a new one.

 

cool man always nice to know different methods.. i dont think my craftsmen wrench will brake.. an if it does i will GET A NEW ON MUAHAHAHA

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ya a $5 valve cover gasket is cheaper for sure.. thanks mike! this new clutch looks alot stronger then the old one... i like how on the box it says not to exceed vehicles rated rpms, an its not a performance clutch an any performance driving could cause it to explode an could cause injury or death lol

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It's harder to do in a 2wd truck, but in a 4x4 with transfer case here's something to watch out for...

 

You climb a hill but don't make it to the top and begin backing down. You leave in first gear and just put the clutch in and slowly roll back down to try again. The hill isn't too steep or rough and you let the truck roll back at maybe 20MPH. What's wrong with this???

 

You are still in first gear which is, (in my truck) 3.592 ratio

You are in low range which has a 2 to 1 ratio.

The rear end ratio is 4.375

 

@20 MPH your 27 inch tall P215/70R15 tires are turning almost 3.4 times per second or 249 times per minute. No big deal you say, I can easily do 60MPH or 3 times that without problems. True but think about this... because of the differential ratio your drive shaft is turning 4.375 times faster or 1,089 RPMs. No big deal still. The transfer case has a 2:1 ratio in low gear so your tranny output is turning 2,179 RPMs. Now the biggie! First gear is a 3.592 ratio, and because you are in gear the clutch disc is being turned by the back wheels to the tune of over 7,800 RPMs.

 

This is at only 20 MPH!

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Another idea I got from beebani is to take the 4 speed tranny that nobody wants anyways and cut the input shaft off of it then ya got a tool to beat on to get the pilot bushing out. then gut the trans of steel and scrap the case and score most your money back for the price of the clutch in clean aluminum!

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2eDeYe;83194']Soap. Search 'hydraulic method' for a bit more info if what's below doesn't make sense.

 

Smash some bar soap in the hole. Use your clutch alignment tool in the hole and hit it with a rubber mallet to smash the soap in some more. Pack more soap in there' date=' hit the alignment tool and hammer. Eventually the soap will push out the bushing. Scrape out the soap install your new bushing.[/quote']

 

 

Same idea as what i have always used, but i always used grease. makes a damn mess. Like the soap idea. And Dont even think about beating on the clutch alignment tool if it is plastic. My method is to fine the largest bolt that will fit into the bushing. I think that it is 9/16" bolt, then i wrap the end of the threads with electrical tape for an even tighter fit/seal, then beat on the head of the bolt.

 

Jason

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mike thats a good point on the rpms for the clutch.. i didnt know that.. glad i do tho!

 

so what if you get a bolt that will kinda sorta thread into the bushing maybe u could jus yank it out?? i will have to find something to use that wont damage anything.. cause my tools plastic :(

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