ariascarlos1990 Posted September 23, 2008 Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 ok my buddy just bought a '77 King cab and we can seem to get pressure to the pedal. we just installed a new master cylinder, flushed the lines, and adjusted the shoes on all the drums. it will have pressure if you pump them about 10 times but, then you let go and try to push again and it goes straight to the floor. :confused: im wondering if its the booster? Any little tips will help Thanks. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted September 23, 2008 Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 Booster would behave as if it wasn't there if it isn't working. Just sounds like you have a lot of air in the lines or master still. Quote Link to comment
Bugeye Posted September 23, 2008 Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 bench bleed the master and try again Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted September 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 will do. ill let you know on updates. Quote Link to comment
mike Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 dude, check your original posting about your buddys KC, I just went through the same thing with mine. I explained how to bleed them. Make sure you start with the two bleeder screws on the side of the MC... never mind, Ill blatantly repost. That one has the deluxe badges on the fenders... Mine has (had) them too. Does anybody know what was deluxe about them? Extra chrome tape on the interior or something? As far as the brakes go, bleed the master cylinder bleeders first if its been sitting. I pulled mine out of a field where it had been sitting for I dont know how long, I went around the wheel cylinders quite a few times and it kept feeling like the peddle was building pressure and then it would just drop to the floor. Bled the brake cylinder first and went around the brakes a couple more times and the brakes work fine other than the booster being shot... Start from pass rear, then to drivers rear, then go to the load proportioning valve thing (it should have three bleeders on it) go from back to front. then pass side front to drivers side front. Bleed the two on the master cylinder again and just repeat the process until you have brakes. You might already know this stuff but knowing this would have saved me a bunch of time and a lot of cussing. Quote Link to comment
mike Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 Also another thing, I thought my brakes were FAWKED... I went and bought all the parts to redo them (MC, front and rear wheel cylinders, shoes) When I went to take off the old MC I noticed the two little bleeder screws on the side. I bled those and my pedal issues all went away, wheel cylinders were good, and even the damn shoes had more than enough left to keep me happy. So I returned all the brake shit and bought a shitload of semiflat black Krylon... It stops now and looks a hell of a lot cooler. Good luck man. Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 could it be because of excessive brake pad wear? i think it should still have pressure though. idk? Quote Link to comment
mike Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 checklist... -check all hoses, brake lines, and connections to make sure they are all dry -pull drums, make sure wheel cylinders are all dry and not leaking... check pads at same time (DONT STEP ON THE BRAKES WITH DRUMS OFF!!!!!) If theyre bad buy new ones, they are cheap. only replace one side at a time, use the other side as a template. If everything is dry and in good shape put the drum back on. Use the search tool on here to find the proper adjusting technique. -Clean any and all areas wet with brake fluid with brake cleaner, dont skimp, clean the piss out of them... -Go through and bleed them again. There should be 9 bleeders that you need to bleed every time you go around. If youre only getting air out of one of them bleed them all anyways. Start with the bleeder screws on the MC they are right below the fluid reservoirs, if youre getting air out of them keep bleeding them till you stop getting air. then start with the farthest point from the master cyl(passenger rear, drivers rear, load sensing valve (back, middle, then front... this should be on the inner passenger side frame rail just behind the passenger seat) passenger fron and ending with drivers front, cleed the MC again just to make sure that there is no more air in the system. Another thing, make sure that whoever is pumping the brakes does not let off the pedal while the bleeder is open. Also whoever is at the bleeding end, close it as soon as you arent getting air. You shouldnt have it open for more than a second. If youre getting pressure you will be able to hear the brakes actuating inside the wheel drums One last thing that was already mentioned, if you havent bench bled the MC, or if you dont know if you did it right bench bleed it again. If you have air at the MC you are just going to push it through the entire system. Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted September 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 try'd it. still nothing...... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 When bleeding the master cylinder must NOT be allowed to run dry. If it does .... start all over again. Be sure all drum brakes are adjusted first before bleeding. Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted September 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 we always fill the fluid holders and we adjusted the shoes all the way out. until they had some contact with the drum. Quote Link to comment
mike Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 can you hear the brakes working and does anything at all come out when you turn the bleeder? Could you have a defective MC out of the box? Did your old one look clean after you took the reservoirs off and did you already return it for a core? Quote Link to comment
mike Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 Try cracking open ALL of the bleeders at the same time and making sure that the fluid reservoirs stay full. Have someone watch the reservoir and see if any bubbles come out and ensure that it stays full. Do this for about 5-10 minutes, rock the truck like youre checking the shocks to try and shake any air bubbles loose. If youre getting a solid stream of fluid without air coming out of the MC bleeders leave them closed. DO NOT PUMP THE BRAKES and DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIRS GO DRY!!!! This shouldnt make as big of a mess as youd expect and should get some air out of the system. If the fluid level is dropping and no bubbles are coming up close all the bleeders and try bleeding them in order again. Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted September 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 fluid comes out and seems to be in working order. The only thing left on the check list is the brake booster. and everybody keeps saying its not. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 The booster has no connection to the hydraulic lines. It provides assist to make it easier to press down on the pedal. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 I still think master isn't bled properly. The booster has a solid connection to the master when you press on it and simply uses vacuum to help push when you press the pedal. If the booster is shot it will simply act like you don't have one, like I said in my first post. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 we always fill the fluid holders and we adjusted the shoes all the way out. until they had some contact with the drum. Adjusting the shoes out until they have some contact with the drums is not a good enough process. Maybe describe better, exactly what was done?? For diagnostic purposes, Adjust all four wheels untill the wheel will not turn in either direction. Now bleed the brakes. Let us know what happens. Few more steps after this, so dont go driving yet. Let us know. Jason Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 could it be because of excessive brake pad wear? i think it should still have pressure though. idk? This statement concerns me. How about a pic? Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted September 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 will get pics later today. have to buy battery's Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 ok never got battery's..lol I guess he just gave up on his brakes and is gonna roll with no pressure..:confused: anyways hope he figures it out. Later. Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted October 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 I guess he said if anybody wants to do what ever it takes to fix his brakes, they can have all the a/c stuff off his truck. :rollseyes: Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 Is he buying any parts? We are just the labor source? Maybe i should ask where this truck is located.. Portland area? Jason Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted October 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 He doesn't have the money for the parts thats why he is kinda like trading the setup for parts/labor on his brakes and is willing to give the a/c stuff away for some help...lol We've tryed everything and can't seem to get them to have pressure and was kinda hopping for some ratsun member to give us a hand. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 when you guys bleed the brakes is the truck level? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 Time to take a good look at the 'NEW' master cylinder. They doo sell bad ones you know. Quote Link to comment
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