datzenmike Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Most 4 cylinder ones tend to be around 29 lbs. (trucks at least) I have a 280zx (larger six cylinder) and it was 21 lbs, The L28 has more rotational mass than a 4 cylinder. I think I have a 240mm in 29 and 21 lbs. A larger mass spins smoother with less vibration. A lighter flywheel may free up a couple of hp but like a header, no one will notice or care. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Most 4 cylinder ones tend to be around 29 lbs. (trucks at least) I have a 280zx (larger six cylinder) and it was 21 lbs, The L28 has more rotational mass than a 4 cylinder. I think I have a 240mm in 29 and 21 lbs. A larger mass spins smoother with less vibration. A lighter flywheel may free up a couple of hp but like a header, no one will notice or care. Ahhhh alright thanks Mike Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 So on the gl-4 synthetic. What would be a good weight to use? I was thinking of using the purple stuff. I just remember in autoshop something about it being better. But I might try the cheaper gl-4 baxters has it in stock on the shelves. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 All GL-4 oils must meet a minimum standard so cheaper is fine. Same with all engine oils. Synthetic oil is 'thinner' than it's regular oil counterpart, I believe. Still does the same job but better. Check out this friction modifier from GM.... http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=27676 Hell I paid about $11 at liter for my semi-synthetic blend. Might try this. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted January 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 New and old rear seals. Blue is the old one. And then some of the royal purple gear oil Still seems like my clutch/throwout bearing is shot but havnt driven it around since I drained and refilled it. Quote Link to comment
Dat(lucky ol)Sun Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 when we did the clutch on my 81 4x4, i believe we justr loosened the mounts on the front diff, and with it "loose', it moved enuff out of the way to do the clutch. Of course we didnt have flywheel issues...but there's a thought. Ed Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 when we did the clutch on my 81 4x4, i believe we justr loosened the mounts on the front diff, and with it "loose', it moved enuff out of the way to do the clutch. Of course we didnt have flywheel issues...but there's a thought. EdI think its my cltuch/throwout bearing. Not to sure on the flywheel. I thought loosening the front mounts would make more room I just didnt try it. Did you pull the cv axles as well? Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 You'll need to remove the CV's. Get a 12mm box end wrench to break them loose. Then remove the bolts with a T50 bit and a quarter inch ratcheting wrench. Fastest way I've figured how to do it. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 If you have an engine hoist, I find it faster and easier to pull my engine than to drop the transmission to do the clutch. I find the front end disassembly to be a nightmare and pulling the engine to merely be annoying. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 If you have an engine hoist, I find it faster and easier to pull my engine than to drop the transmission to do the clutch. I find the front end disassembly to be a nightmare and pulling the engine to merely be annoying.It seems pulling the motor is the easiest way from what I have read. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 So the transmission will not drop down between the torsion bars? :confused: 1 Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 So the transmission will not drop down between the torsion bars? :confused:Not with the front diff in the way. I had the tranny crossmember and all that out of the way as well. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Wow, what a pain, I thought all that stuff was to the side a little. Can't you just move the transmission back and work on the clutch/TO bearing, I do it all the time on my work truck, as I cannot drop the transmission without removing the clutch cover/disc and the transmission mount on the 521 cross member, there just isn't enough room. I will admit it is a pain though, getting the disc alignment tool in and out of that area is a pain with the transmission there, I slide back the transmission, then I use a strap going across the torsion bars to hold the front of the trans. up there, but I believe that the 4X4 torsion bars are lower, so maybe a 2X4 across the torsion bars would hold it up there so you can turn the flywheel to get to the clutch cover bolts. Not with the front diff in the way. I had the tranny crossmember and all that out of the way as well. 1 Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Wow, what a pain, I thought all that stuff was to the side a little. Can't you just move the transmission back and work on the clutch/TO bearing, I do it all the time on my work truck, as I cannot drop the transmission without removing the clutch cover/disc and the transmission mount on the 521 cross member, there just isn't enough room. I will admit it is a pain though, getting the disc alignment tool in and out of that area is a pain with the transmission there, I slide back the transmission, then I use a strap going across the torsion bars to hold the front of the trans. up there, but I believe that the 4X4 torsion bars are lower, so maybe a 2X4 across the torsion bars would hold it up there so you can turn the flywheel to get to the clutch cover bolts. Thats how I managed to do it last time. Pulled the shift lever out rotated and lifted it over part of the frame. It was rather tight. Had to feed and out each part in onto the transmission nipple. Then back onto the flywheel and bolted down. Its do able buy reallu tedious to do along with putting the transmission/motor back together. 1 Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Well it finally bit the dust today. Best I can come up with is the throwout bearing fell off the fork? Not to sure the fork is just hanging. I will take some pictures tomorrow before I start taking it apart. Only $111 dollars for the kit. Maybe I'll score a collar with it. Maybe not but itd be cool. New fork probably just so I can get rid of the old one and not have the adjustable pushrod. 1 Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 So pulled the primary driveline and it started pouring gear oil out even though I replaced the seal. My question is I have two different driveline flange yokes one is long and the other is short Iv had the long one in and it seems to leak a little gear oil on the front driveline all the time. I do not have a picture of the short one as it is in the transmission stopping the gear oil from coming out while the long one is out. I do have a picture of the long one Whats the difference between the 2 and which would be better? Should have it apart tomorrow before work hopefully the old one out so I can compare it to the new one maybe leave with the new one and some nuts and bolts for my drivelines grade 8 allen bolts with some nuts. Really planning on using the small driveline end. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 It's normal for the oil to come out when the drive shaft is removed. The seal only seals around the spline, if removed there is a big hole. There is no difference between long or short spline and how well they seal. If one leaks, perhaps it has a worn area on it. Try the shorter one but replace the transmission seal again they are only $3. Be sure to grease the seal or the spline before installing so it doesn't start up dry. 1 Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 It's normal for the oil to come out when the drive shaft is removed. The seal only seals around the spline, if removed there is a big hole. There is no difference between long or short spline and how well they seal. If one leaks, perhaps it has a worn area on it. Try the shorter one but replace the transmission seal again they are only $3. Be sure to grease the seal or the spline before installing so it doesn't start up dry. If it doesnt make a difference then maybe Ill just stick with the one already on and I dont have to replace the ujoint. I just really wanted to know if it would make a difference or not if anything Ill pick up another quart of gear oil and top the tranny off after I Get it all back together. Kinda scared to open it up throwout bearing fork is just hanging I can move it all over the place like its not attached. I think I might have to get a new one of those as well. Hopefully the flywheel isnt damaged and maybe I can get it warrantied depending on how/what broke. But if that bearing came off good year is gunna owe me some money. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 The fork clips to the release bearing collar and as long as the fork is also cipped to the pivot ball on the trans it shouldn't come apart. If the slave and push rod is removed the fork could be pried forward of the pivot ball.... then it wouldn't take much to un-clip from the collar. If you remove the slave and the clutch arm boot, you may be able to see in the boot hole and clip the fork to the collar and then push it back on the pivot ball. Flash light and long screwdriver will help. I haven't checked but likely the clutch fork may even fit out the boot hole? Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 The fork clips to the release bearing collar and as long as the fork is also cipped to the pivot ball on the trans it shouldn't come apart. If the slave and push rod is removed the fork could be pried forward of the pivot ball.... then it wouldn't take much to un-clip from the collar. If you remove the slave and the clutch arm boot, you may be able to see in the boot hole and clip the fork to the collar and then push it back on the pivot ball. Flash light and long screwdriver will help. I haven't checked but likely the clutch fork may even fit out the boot hole? I do not have a boot but it rattles all over the place and does not want to come all the way out. I was having clutch issues to begin with lots of slipping and not working properly. Also heard alot of sounds coming from the transmission/flywheel area figured the flywheel could use a lookin at as well. New clutch is at the parts store waiting for Friday. Doing it all from underneath the truck so Ill probably put a write up for it once I get done and take lots of pictures. Right now my primary and front drivelines are out and 1 bolt from the transmission is out. Just the starter tranny mount and the other 3 bolts and its time to finesse the tranny out of my way to pull everything out and put everything back in. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 So got it apart working on uploading the pics... final conclusion clutch is good throwout bearing is shredded and the transmission is good and dead... soo transmission shopping it is. Woohooo! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 How do you know the transmission is dead? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 How do you know the transmission is dead? This. Quote Link to comment
Thisolddatsun Posted February 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 This. How do you know the transmission is dead? Sorry took me awhile to post. Found a newer one for 400 bad motor and 2wd but I have a good motor bad tranny. Rebuild a motor and a tranny why not. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 That will be a problem, looks like it was used after it fell apart, it needs a new cover, fork, collar, and input shaft assembly, it will be easier to find another transmission. Quote Link to comment
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