Eriks Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 Hi, I,m about to mount 280zx struts w/coilovers on my 510. I bought a set of camber plates to adjust the camber angle. However I also see that this adjustment can also be done with adjustable control arms. Which way is best - adjusting with camber plates or control arms? Would there be any good reason to have both camber plates and adjustable control arms? Appreciate your views on this, thanks. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 With both you can cheat wheel width a little . But I run both because with an adjustable heim jointed control arm you can run more then 3 degrees of caster with out destroying your lower control arm bushing 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Camber plates don't move the rim much, just rotates the top in and the bottom out to correct positive camber and out at the top and in at the bottom for negative camber. This rotation is around the fixed outer control arm ball joint. The LCA on the other hand, moves the rim outward on an upward arc centered on the strut top hat to correct positive camber and inward and down to correct a negative camber... like swinging on a swing. It moves the rim a lot more than a camber plate will so correcting positive risks hitting the fender and negative the inner fender well. In addition, LCAs also have the tension rods and sway bar mounts on them. What happens when the LCA widens where these mount to them? Quote Link to comment
Eriks Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Good replies, good points, thanks. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 O I forgot to mention you need adjustable TC rods to move the wheel in and out. you can also pick up adjustable heim jointed links for the saw bar Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Unless you get the good (or build) adjustable control arms you have to remove the arm, adjust and bolt it back together. A real pain in the ass. Being able to adjust on the car is far better. Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Both have their advantages. The FutoFab Adjustable LCA's have an inner rod end and with our adjustable TC Rods you can likely gain more caster and/or camber than you would ever need (or want) for a street car. Also, FutoFab's LCA's & TC Rods are both fully adjustable without having to be removed from the car. Loosen the jam nuts, rotate the coupler/adjuster until caster/camber is where you want it, lock down the jam nuts, check/adjust the toe and you are pretty much ready to go. Note #1: When using adjustable LCA/TC Rods the caster & camber settings should be adjusted first, then the toe set. Changing camber with adjustable LCA's will effect toe far more dramatically than making adjustments with camber plates. Note #2: Always double check all settings. When you change one setting check the others, adjust as needed and go back and verify the first settings are still where you want them to be. Remember each link in a suspension is coupled to the others. Make a big adjustment to one, chances are the others will need to be tweaked as well. Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Surprised this hasn't been said yet, but heim joints transfer a lot more NVH into the car and makes the driving experience... less pleasant? In a street car, hardly worth it. I track my 510 and still have rubber control arm bushings. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.