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datsunfreak

Project Doolittle, '68 2000

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Pretty snazzy.   :thumbup:  

 

Can't take my windshield off though...   :rofl:

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Yes you can, but not with a wrench.....

As my Pappy used to say, "If it can't be done with a chainsaw and a mini grinder, it can't be done."

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Yes you can, but not with a wrench...

 

There is that option...   :rofl:

 

1970_Datsun_2000_Roadster_SCCA_Solor_Rac

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It would be fun, but it looks a bit like 10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound bag. Kinda kills the whole "simplicity" of the car, right?

 

I saw this today, and it got me curious...

 

20141113_120913.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Ever seen an H20 in a Roadster? Monster OHV two liter. Apparently being based on the R16 engine means it bolts right into the car too...

 

Only rated at 99hp, but at 122ft.lb of torque, it sounds like quite the stump puller...

 

 

The H20 is a common forklift motor.

 

http://www.wholesaleforkliftparts.com/category_s/92.htm

 

 

If you do an 'L' series motor, I do believe the cam cover will hit the hood.

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If you do an 'L' series motor, I do believe the cam cover will hit the hood.

 

Only if you don't notch the crossmember for oil pump clearance to get it down at the proper height.   ;)

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H20 is a great option for the Roadster.  Shifty has one in his car, Scraps, with a set of 40mm Mikuni's on it and she is a little monster.  The only complaint is that the head can't keep up with the carbs.  That will be fixed with a fresh R16 head that has had some port work done and a bigger set of valves.  A cheaper way to get a stoker motor than building one from scratch.  There are pages of info on this over on 311s.org..

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There are pages of info on this over on 311s.org..

 

Been reading all of them for weeks now. No closer to a decision...   :rofl:

 

Except I sort of have a hard time putting a pushrod motor in the car knowing it started life as an OHC...   ^_^

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An overhead cam motor created by replacing the R1600 cam shaft with a jack shaft, adding another timing chain and fitting an OHC head to what is still basically a R1600 engine block with a bigger front timing chain cover.

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Then an L-series is a step up then?   ;)

 Not necesarily. The roadster 2 liter engine with the NISMO cam and twin Delortos [or Mikunis] if carefully assembled and tuned has been "rumored" to develop 150 Horse Power. NISMO could not claim that number without jeopardizing the class within which the roadster 2 liter engine madified to factory authorized configuration were rated. Some wild claims of 165 Horsepower should be taken with a grain of salt [with or without a Margarita].
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The U20 has 1.75" intake ports and 1.75" intake valves, coupled with 46mm SUs, 135hp and a 7000 rpm redline - stock - it is way beyond an L series. A properly sorted H20 with some head work and 46mm SUs would have a good amount of grunt more so then an L series imho. If you have an R16, all you need is the H20 crank and rods, trim the piston skirts and your good to go 122lbs of torque! Plus you don't have to butcher up the frame.

 

http://www.earlydatsun.com/datsunsr31167.html

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The U20 has 1.75" intake ports and 1.75" intake valves, coupled with 46mm SUs, 135hp and a 7000 rpm redline - stock - it is way beyond an L series. A properly sorted H20 with some head work and 46mm SUs would have a good amount of grunt more so then an L series imho. If you have an R16, all you need is the H20 crank and rods, trim the piston skirts and your good to go 122lbs of torque! Plus you don't have to butcher up the frame.

 

http://www.earlydatsun.com/datsunsr31167.html

And thanks to the roadster crowd you can get up to 40 thousands oversized pistons to add to the fun [and horsepower].

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  Not necesarily. The roadster 2 liter engine with the NISMO cam and twin Delortos [or Mikunis] if carefully assembled and tuned has been "rumored" to develop 150 Horse Power.

 

The U20 has 1.75" intake ports and 1.75" intake valves, coupled with 46mm SUs, 135hp and a 7000 rpm redline - stock - it is way beyond an L series.

 

It was meant as more of a joke, fellas.  ^_^

 

But thanks for the info.   :thumbup:

 

If you have an R16...

 

Unfortunately, I do not. All I have is a giant pile of L-series stuff.   B)

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ASS HOLE !

 

You ever going to tell me why you said this?  Or what I said to warrant it?   :rofl:

 

Been looking longingly at this car all week. I think it's getting close to time to do some actual work. We shall see...    B)

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Well, the plot thickens. Someone made me a somewhat ridiculous offer on my 510 today (which was next in line to be built), so as soon as the 1200 is roadworthy I will be diving into this car head first. Stay tuned.  B)

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Another project has fallen by the wayside, so some of those parts will soon be finding their way into this one...

 

 

16x8 Watanabe RS-8s. Two had perfect lips (left) two had scratches on the lips (right)...

 

20150805_194005.jpg

 

 

Disassemble time. Faces washed and sent off to be powdercoated...

 

20150805_203417.jpg

 

 

Now to sand, polish, and re-clearcoat the two scratched barrels...

 

20150805_203754.jpg

 

 

Also wanting to get an early 510 valve cover powdercoated to match the wheels...

 

20150806_133655.jpg

 

 

 

Decided to remove the wiring loom hump...

 

20150806_140007.jpg

 

 

 

 

Still trying to decide between using my L18 (slow but easy) and using a KA24E (fast but more difficult) I found for a good price. 

 

If it's the L18, I also recently picked up a longtail dogleg 5spd trans...

 

20150706_173126.jpg  20150706_173115.jpg

 

 

Going to try and test fit the L18 soon and see what it needs to get in there...

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I vote KA :)

 

I already knew your vote...    ^_^

 

It is tempting, as it could be quite a bit faster. :thumbup:

 

But I also have a 210 project that the KA would slot into nicely as well, so...

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