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My "barnfind" Datsun 1600 pickup!


Spiff

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On step forward and to steps back...

 

Got some z22 engine mounts today which I bought of eBay after waiting for ages for some guy who in the end didn't come through...

Got them fitted but now the 4wd oil sump fouls the torsion bar, it also prevents the engine from leaning over enough so that the driver side mount fits properly.

So now I need to get a 2wd oil pan, or I suppose I could cut and shut the 4wd oil sump if I can't get a hold of one...

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  • 4 months later...
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Thread revival time, and project revival time... Been a freackin cold 4months since last update so nothing has been done. I sourced a 2wd sump pan, but then the oil strainer didn't fit so I had to shorten it. Finally when everything on the engine was in place, time to test the transmission and of course its not a bolt on solution, the front driveshaft was to long, and the crossmember didn't reach the fram rails when mounted to the transmission. So now I've sourced correct driveshaft(it was actually cheaper to buy one of ebay than shortening the one i have..) and a correct transmission crossmember. 

To save on shipping to I had them shipped by sea so they won't be here untill early april. So I've started to finish up the rest of the build. Tidying up and relocating the electrics...

 

Adding efi and fuel pump relays, relocating coil and resistor and moving the distributor wiring.

 

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adding the AFM wiring and relocating the harness from the top of the radiator support to the bottom for a tidier look.

 

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Adding wiring for the electric fans, afm, coil and resistor in place.

 

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new tape on the wiring and washer tank back in place, you can just spot the dropping resistor for the injectors "underneath" it. 

 

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So the project is finally on its way again...

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Well at least datsun/nissan was good enough to make interchangeable parts for you, otherwise you'de have to fabricate this stuff

 

Are ;you sure that relay location is good? Those things aren't really waterproof and the water splashes into that opening thru the hood.

I've opened those plastic relays before and they're all rusted up. Perhaps a little metal cover over the top?

 

This is how i do projects. A little at a time. Good progress given where you live. I hate wrenching when its really cold. Hurts like hell

when a wrench slips and you smash some knuckles.

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Yeah, it's like Lego building nissans, it's just that when everything has to be sourced from the US it all of a sudden takes alot of time for something that was gonna be a weekend project.

 

The relays might be mounted further back, on the inner fender, underneath that "ledge" so hopefully water isn't gonna be a problem. But on the bluebird they where actually mounted like this

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  • 2 months later...

long time ago since update, been having some issues, and alot of other stuff to deal with so haven't gotten around to updating this.

 

Basically, I got the Z24E in the truck, tried to fire it up and it ran like crap. A couple of injectors where clogged so I swapped them all, then it got fuel but spark was an issue so I ordered new plugs and it ran somewhat ok but the plugs would foul. I thought it was carbon fouling untill I started to see one wet plug and a lot of smoke from the engine....

Then all hell broke loose when the flywheel bolts broke loose. I was sure the engine was dead, but "luckily" the engine is solid. But we took it out and fitted the Z20E I had so thats what its running now, while I build a proper Z24. Speaking of which, I got a hold of my old Z24 build so I now have a Z24 block with forged pistons, a rebuilt and ported head with cam and I'm gonna get a copper head gasket so that engine hopefully can take some boost :D

But back to the current engine, it's running ok, I have fitted a pertronix ignitor kit and flamethrower coil. I've fitted a tomei adjustable fpr since the stock one died, I have fitted a wideband lambda sensor so I can see what what the A/F is like and because it was running a little lean I adjusted the AFM a little bit to give it some more fuel, good improvement in accelleration.

 

I've also fitted the dropspindles and D21 brakes, they're definately better than stock but I need bigger master cylinder I think because pedal feel is pretty soft, is the D21 master cylinder bolt in? 

 

I'll try and get some more and better pictures someday, of the engine and all  

 

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Lowered 2.5" but still a way to go  :rofl:

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  • 1 month later...

Lowered it some more, put the gemtop on.

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Engine pics.

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I've also been doing some work on my spare manifold, this is the upper plenum with an rb25det throttlebody. Since it opens the opposite way I had to do some trickery to get the stock throttlewire to fit. So I flipped the "wireholder", cut it and rewelded it so it didn't end up to far out.

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So that's gonna be fun. I've also ordered a topmount log manifold for a ka24e to use on my z24 along with a ka24de cometic mls headgasket, which will be modified to fit.

So full specs on that engine will be:

Wiseco forged pistons

Cometic head gasket

Arp head bolts

Ported head with cam

Topmount stock rb25det turbo

Z20E intake manifold with rb25det throttlebody and portmatched to the z24 head.

Datsun 280zx turbo injectors and Afm from a BMW 633

 

Looking forward to putting that in there!

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  • 4 weeks later...

More stuff! During my summer holiday I ran across this hoarder who had tons of old Nissan and datsuns scattered across his property... So I got a 5speed shiftknob, a steering wheel and a set of wheels, all from a y60 patrol. And I got a center console from a king cab, it's blue so I'll need to paint it but it's gonna be good.

 

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Also I got my ka turbo manifold

 

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It's gonna set the turbo about here

 

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And to get the sparkplug wires out of the way I bought new red ones

 

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Here's the valve cover I'm gonna put on:

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Pics of the whole setup, I did mess up and put the breather hose on the boost side of the turbo but I've plugged the hose and I'm venting to atmosphere for now until I get a catch tank.

Also the brakebooster fouled the downpipe so I had to get a smaller one so I'm running a n13 brake booster

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  • 3 weeks later...

Can you shorten the booster mount to bring it back closer to the firewall? You'd have to shorten the rod too. It looks like you have a little bit of room before the booster interferes with the clutch slave.

 

I've moved the whole clutch pedal and slave over to make clearance for larger boosters. Maybe you could move it over on this to get rid of that booster standoff altogether.

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Crawling around under my 720 dash, I sure feel like there is sufficient space to relocate the clutch master and then modify the pedal arm so the pedal is still in the stock position. That would provide enough space to mount the booster right to the firewall. I've been considering that job as part of a much larger project

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I'll be mounting the booster on the firewall, the only reason I haven't done it yet is that I don't have any brake pipe tools so I can't shorten and flare the brake pipes.

This N13 booster is about 7" so won't foul the clutch master. The stock booster is about 10-11".

Unless you plan on cutting out part of the inner fender you need a smaller booster if you plan on mounting it directly on the firewall, just look at how big the indent is on the fender in the stock position. With a N13 or B12 booster you'll get away with a few taps with a ballhammer

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  • 4 months later...

https://goo.gl/photos/y8Cx6HKvoiWDUy8J8

 

Still alive. Been running the turbo setup since October now. Ended up going back to the stock injectors since the zx turbo injectors was just too much. Running good though although I fear I might have ruined the spark plugs by running it too rich for too long.

I've invested in a megasquirt ecu though so will get that up and running during the spring/summer.

Right now I got more pressing issues needing to change the fuel tank and do some outstanding maintenance and also I was backed into by a truck so I need to change the hood and the whole front apron :-( not easy parts to come by over here

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Just to review, you're running a z24 with z18 turbo and manifold and z22 fuel injection?

 

No, its a complete Z20E with a ka24e turbo manifold(ebay spechulz) and a RB25DET turbo.

 

I did initially swap a Z24 in it with the Z20 fuel injection on it but the valve seals blew after a week of running so in went the Z20.

I do have a Z24 i'm rebuilding at the moment though with wiseco forged pistons and a cometic mls head gasket and ported head which will be swapped in sometime this coming summer. I'm gonna run 14psi of boost through the stock Z20E first and see if it copes  :rofl:

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  • 6 months later...

Alot has happened since last time I was here but most importantly, my car is now running full standalone with the ecu controlling both fuel and spark :)

For spark control I'm running a SR20DET cas with a diyautotune triggerwheel and four toyota yaris coils. The sr20cas sits on a custom designed pedestal in 3d printed nylon.

 

Video of it running :)

https://youtu.be/wrL6gWG7MFQ

 

And the pedestal itself:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BX2q2T3jRnR/

 

If you cant see my pictures try one of these fixes:

 

Chrome:

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj?hl=en

Firefox:

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/photobucket-embedded-fix/

 

And for more pics and stuff follow my instagram @sand_sjol :)

 

 

 

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  • 3 months later...
 

Been a few months i see, this has happened since last:

 

Struggled with my engine not running right before I was gonna dyno it, turned out the injectors where all sucking false air in by the injector o rings, so had to replace them and the number 2 injector got clogged.

 

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Went to get the ecu mapped:

 

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Ended up with 168hp at the wheels, estimated 201 at the crank and 270nm.

 

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Got a hold of a stock tacho from the US, sadly this was the shape it arrived in :(

Managed to glue it together and mount it but it doesn't work so I have a feeling something more is also broken...

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didn't get the "window" so had to make one out of 3mm plexiglass, heat gun and dremel

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I have also shortened the brake booster pedestal(roughly 10cm) in order to get even more clearance to the turbo. Now I can fit some heat shielding

 

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Also made a gauge panel in fusion 360 and had someone 3d print it.

PLX multigauge with wideband and innovate mtx-d oil temp/pressure gauge.

 

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