Jump to content

71 510 wagon Rear End Help


DatsunSwag22

Recommended Posts

i just got this wagon and the old owner changed the rear end and it pushes the back rims out passed the body which i don't like.  i would like to know what in it. I'm join SR swap in the wagon. i want to get some type of coil overs or something that will Hold up Good wit Torque. I'm a drive that like to Punch it a lot.

i even thought about IRS rear end wit Coilover but haven't seen anyone do it. not sure what to do. 

What is some options do i have for rear End???

Link to comment
  • Replies 26
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm sorry, but I have to call bull shit on that one. You can't put 3" blocks in ANYTHING  and not have it be lower when your done.

Look for an article by Icehouse on his wagon that he put a IRS from a 510 in a wagon. Pretty well documented and done right here on Ratsun. I'll see if I can find it for you.

Link to comment

i just got this wagon and the old owner changed the rear end and it pushes the back rims out passed the body which i don't like.  i would like to know what in it. I'm join SR swap in the wagon. i want to get some type of coil overs or something that will Hold up Good wit Torque. I'm a drive that like to Punch it a lot.

i even thought about IRS rear end wit Coilover but haven't seen anyone do it. not sure what to do. 

What is some options do i have for rear End???

 

You'd better post a picture of this wagon because your signature picture is a sedan and very confusing.

 

IRS is not the best for straight ahead acceleration, leaf springs are. IRS is marginally better for overall handling with or without an SR. Coils will not 'hold up' any better than leaf springs. The IRS swap has been done in a wagon but monstrous amount of work for dubious results. Just because something can be done doesn't make it a good idea.  

 

 

The rims are 15x5. Stock z rims. I put 3in blocks n the rear end didn't even drop

 

Again pictures would help. Drop blocks will lower the car body so you've done it wrong or described it wrong so maybe the 'stock Z car rims' are wrong too.

 

Posting pictures?... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/691-how-to-post-pictures-and-keep-online-photo-albums/

Link to comment

Im wondering How you put 3inch blocks under the axle sna you get no movement.

 

You have airshocks or something?

 

 

If you can figure this one out I say don't do the SR conversion.

 

PS 3 inch blocks unless you rasie the roof of the drive line tunnel will just bang around and be really worse.  where this 3 inches go?

 

If you like to punch it a lot a mustang V8 are good for this.

 

We are not mind readesr by maybe the other owner put the axle under the spring instead of top.

Is this just another 510 axle.  truck axle???????????

4 lug 6 lug ect...?????????????

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Lowering blocks under the axle do not affect the shock absorber length.  They would have to be fully compressed to not allow the body any lower and this is impossible on the stock shock, very unlikely even if others were substituted... besides if you were riding on bottomed out shocks you would KNOW IT.

Link to comment

Lowering blocks under the axle do not affect the shock absorber length.  They would have to be fully compressed to not allow the body any lower and this is impossible on the stock shock, very unlikely even if others were substituted... besides if you were riding on bottomed out shocks you would KNOW IT.

Ok I'll post some pics when I get home !!

Link to comment

Two things...

 

1/ Look above the rear end. Is the differential tight against the rubber bump stop? Doesn't look like it is but...

 

2/ unbolt the rear shocks from the differential. If these are from something else, this eliminates them as being bottomed out and holding the car up.

 

 

No that is not where the battery goes but as long as it is carefully done and the long cable well insulated from rubbing then it's fine. It moves weight both lower and to the rear making the car even more 50/50.

 

 

BTW looks like some leaves were removed in an attempt to lower. This is ill advised for another two reasons.

 

1/  It lowers the spring rate. This means on dips in the road the suspension travels further with less spring to support it. On an already lowered car this is insane. If anything, you should stiffen or add a leaf.

 

2/  The stock leaf stack resists side to side movement of the differential and the whole rear end during hard cornering. The tires will move outward on one side and in on the other possible rubbing the body and certainly upsetting the handling.

Link to comment

Two things...

 

1/ Look above the rear end. Is the differential tight against the rubber bump stop? Doesn't look like it is but...

 

2/ unbolt the rear shocks from the differential. If these are from something else, this eliminates them as being bottomed out and holding the car up.

 

 

No that is not where the battery goes but as long as it is carefully done and the long cable well insulated from rubbing then it's fine. It moves weight both lower and to the rear making the car even more 50/50

 

 

1. no the rubber isn't touching. 

 

2. see thats what i was thinking if the shocks was just hold the car up just never thought Old shocks would do so. 

 

3. i walked the whole wire looks all new. but just wasn't sure if that was where it went. but i guess ill leave it there. 

 

 

do you know any good rear ends that fit in the Datsun wagons? 

Link to comment

Starters draw hundreds of amps when cranking.

 

I would run the positive cable through a garden hose for extra chaffing resistance and secure it at regular intervals INSIDE the car. Exiting only near the starter. You can also isolate the battery by using a ford solenoid and a dash switch.

Link to comment

Why are those ubolts so splayed out?  Also, might want to cut off the excess so they don't hit road bumps/debris as easily.

 

The positive battery cable should be fused within a foot of the battery, unless you want it to become a giant toaster wire in a crash.

 

i dont kno what you mean by Splayed out? yea i know i should cut them but if i have to add more to make it lower i don't want to have to buy more U bolts. 

 

Never knew u can Fuse a Battery. since it is way holds the Volts. i would think wit or without the Fuse it would Be a Toaster. 

Link to comment

Starters draw hundreds of amps when cranking.

 

I would run the positive cable through a garden hose for extra chaffing resistance and secure it at regular intervals INSIDE the car. Exiting only near the starter. You can also isolate the battery by using a ford solenoid and a dash switch.

throught a garden hose, never thought of that.

 

i was thinking of putting Foam around the battery and around the Metal Ends. ?? 

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.