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What's the fastest you've ever gone in a 510?


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New cars have a very different sense of speed.  I've done 150 in my dad's Mazdaspeed 3 and 135+ in the 510 racing against the MS3.  150 in the 3 is so smooth and quiet, feels like you're doing 65?  120 in teh 510 feels like fuggin WARP SPEED.  I have a couple good videos I wish I could post on the internet.... lol

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Tires have come a long way in 40+ years. My new '76 B had nylon tires about 3.5" wide? When they were worn I replaced with B70/R13s (I think B70 but radial for sure) What a difference radials make for grip.... and this was late '70s.

 

Brakes are brakes once you lock them up but today brakes last longer and can absorb more punishment. Cars are also heavier today so they are correspondingly larger with vented rotors. Older cars with today's better grip tires will do much better with a brake upgrade to go with them. You can tax the older brakes when performance braking today. 

 

Suspensions back then were a bit soft to allow for the stiffer nylon tires. Radials are much more compliant and a corresponding stiffening of the suspension is in order. The tires are actually much of the road absorbing suspension.

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nice :) go lz23 man I wish I did. My lz22 is nice but I wish I went all out and threw in the monstee

I like the 2200 myself. But for the sake of argument, some people call it a 2150. The long rod, 89mm bore, L20B crank really are the smoothest combination I have ever built. I don't like the vibrations of the 2300. If properly tuned, a 220 can run up to 8500 RPM and make 210 HP on pump gas. But that combination runs into the $5K range (complete from oil pan to carbs and intake).

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Adding the splitter makes a HUGE difference, I put one on my car this year and its amazing the difference at speed.

A spook is on the mental list of things for down the road. I need to get my front end straightened out; a new valance at the least, if it'll fit with my core support tweaked.

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what about diesel oil for its anti foaming agents? what causes the vibrations in a 2300 that a 2200 doesnt have?

Anti foaming???

 

The 2300 uses a long stroke Z22 crank and the 2200 uses a short stroke L20B/Z20 crank. The L20B crank is also fully counterweighted wheras the Z22 crank is not. Also the rod length is a concern. 2200 uses 6" rods. The 2300 rods are shorter, unless you opt to have a custom set of pistons made to use the 6" rod.

 

The torque curve on a 2200 is much more conducive to the type of driving most Datsun owners are used to.

 

I have built plenty of 2300's and I do like them, but given the choice, it's 2200 every time.

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yes anti foaming. Diesel engine have vibrations that a gasoline engines do not have so if you were to put oil for a  gasoline engine into a diesel engine, once hot the oil will start to foam up  do to the vibrations and fuck your oil pressure. you will watch your oil pressure gauge drop then come up and drop again. I also only run diesel coolant in my motor do to it having more additives to protect against cavitation.

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Just a heads up on coolant "cavitation" and the difference in causes for diesel and gas engines. This used to confuse the shit out of me until I found it means different things to different motors.

 

For diesel guys this happens at the wall of the cylinder where the high pressures of combustion actually make the cylinder wall flex. The vibration causes bubble voids in the coolant in this specific area. No coolant contact on the cylinder and it overheats frying that side of the piston. I know, weird.

 

Us gas guys might know cavitation as a high revving motor over driving the water pump causing bubbles to condense and form on the paddles of the water pump making it less efficient at a time of highest need. 

 

I feel better now I got that off my chech.

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Cavitation is where the propeller is moving faster than the liquid can stay in contact with it. This drop in pressure is pretty much a vacuum and the water 'boils' and a void is formed. Just like the upper surface of a jet wing forming a fog an sharp turns. The problem is that when this void closes or implodes, it causes an extremely strong shock wave that will chew away or erode any metal. (over time)

 

There is no cure for it except reducing propeller speed, decreasing the angle of the blade or running more blades at slower speeds. I suppose reducing the viscosity of the water by thinning it? if antifreeze does thin the water? Generally cavitation is not a problem in car engines. It's only when revved way above the intended design that it may come into play. Then a larger pulley could be used to reduce the speed of the pump.

 

Oil foaming isn't a problem in car engines either. Well not at under 6K. If you are running 8500 RPMs you would probably be running a dry sump, windage tray and or maybe a deeper pan to lower the level away from the crank.

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Usually its a Z22 with an L head for a 2200

 

Using an L20B crank, 152.5mm long rods and KA24E pistons with 2mm shaved off the top rim around the dish would give you true flattop 89mm pistons that would fit an over bore L20B or Z22 block. The resultant displacement would be 2138cc (hardly a 2200) with 11.16 compression using an open chamber L head.

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I'm just trying to figure out how to make my L20 better than what it would be if I got it put back together than how it was. If I can spend the same, maybe a little more, I'd like to make it bigger. Like I said, I can't find a Z22 short block near me, so I'm looking for other alternatives.

 

How it was:

 

L20 bored .060"

L28 sized pistons with 2cc pop-up (Nissan Part Number: 12010-P8615)

Stock rods (I'm guessing)

U67 head

Mild cam (don't know the specs. Has red and white stripe near the end)

44mm Mikunis

Electronic ignition with MSD

Nissan comp oil pan

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Any Z24 engines from later 720 and the early D21 Hardbody??? Use L20B engine mounts and weld and extend the L20B timing cover 3/4" taller, Add two timing chain links, use current oil pan and pick up tube and your U67 head/intake/exhaust on a modified Z24/L20B head gasket. 2.4 liters displacement, way higher compression, better breathing. Should make LOTS more torque and will basically be an L24B. Can't beat a 20% displacement increase. 

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There is no cure for it except reducing propeller speed, decreasing the angle of the blade or running more blades at slower speeds. I suppose reducing the viscosity of the water by thinning it? if antifreeze does thin the water? Generally cavitation is not a problem in car engines. It's only when revved way above the intended design that it may come into play. Then a larger pulley could be used to reduce the speed of the pump.

 

In diesel coolant there is an additive that coats its self to the metal to prevent bubbles from sticking

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 Generally cavitation is not a problem in car engines. It's only when revved way above the intended design that it may come into play. Then a larger pulley could be used to reduce the speed of the pump.

 

Smaller main, aka Underdrive pulley is SOP if you go beyond stock redline.

 

goingunder-1.jpg

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Usually its a Z22 with an L head for a 2200

 

Using an L20B crank, 152.5mm long rods and KA24E pistons with 2mm shaved off the top rim around the dish would give you true flattop 89mm pistons that would fit an over bore L20B or Z22 block. The resultant displacement would be 2138cc (hardly a 2200) with 11.16 compression using an open chamber L head.

That is what we call a 2200. I mentioned earlier that some refer to it as a 2150.

 

A 2300 is a 89mm bore Z22 crank.

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yes anti foaming. Diesel engine have vibrations that a gasoline engines do not have so if you were to put oil for a  gasoline engine into a diesel engine, once hot the oil will start to foam up  do to the vibrations and fuck your oil pressure. you will watch your oil pressure gauge drop then come up and drop again. I also only run diesel coolant in my motor do to it having more additives to protect against cavitation.

I didn't mean to imply that the vibrations are that bad. The 2300 just has a harmonic inherent vibration that does not suit me. A 2200 sings a sweet tune by comparison.

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