Jump to content

My 720 Resto


720inOlyWa

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 535
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Much better idea!

I had planned to fabricate an aluminum one myself, if a clean stock one didn’t present itself. The NOS replacements are ridiculously priced, for what you get and a few visits to the jy tells you that it will be a temporary relationship at best, so why not use a piece of aluminum and two replaceable rods instead? Damn, I am inspired to whip out a new aluminum top plate for my battery hold down today! Kind of frivolous, but at least it is warm in the shop. It has to be painted with a good insulating paint, to guard against shorts.

 

The rods are two different lengths, I believe. Cut some 1/4 x 20 threads into some medium steel rod, bend the end over- boom, you’re done.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I have what you need, I have an extra with the same clip arrangement, it might not be as nice as the rest of yours though.

DSCN3497.JPG

 

DSCN3504.JPG

 

DSCN3501.JPGIn the Past when ive had the plastic center tabs break off -ive cleaned the wheel center & cap  well & used clear silicone rtv  to affix them on . just use some tape to secure the cap to wheel till the stuff dries!!

Link to comment

DELO 400 15 /30

The steel battery hold down assemblies just go away in no time, seems to me. I was hoping that my aluminum replacement, sort of like the one Guam made, would last a little longer. I worked on the Fudgecicle this weekend, resisting the allure of the ‘new’ project sitting just 30 feet away. Despite horrific weather, I got a lot done. She spent most of the weekend up on the ramps. Fair warning: tomorrow morning, I am going to nab the black carpet out of the King Cab in the jy. Might was well keep the Mo rollin’ and that would be a trade up, for sure.

 

I am sure happy with the switch to the Delo 400 15/320 oil. It seems like the machine likes it better, too. Everything is quieter, not that means all that much I suppose. I had a little issue where the marginal guides were letting a little oil fall into the #4 cylinder overnight so that it would load that cylinder up a little when I first cranked it in the morning. (At least this was my hypothesis) Once it cranked through once, it is cleared out and cranks normally, starts normally. That was with Pennsoil 10/40. With the Delo 400, it doesn’t seem to do that at all anymore. Maybe it is too viscous to slip past the worn #4 guide. And maybe I am just wishful thinkin’.

 

In any case, the valves are quieter, everything seems less clanky. Do you notice this, too? Is it a fools comfort? (Of course it is.)

Link to comment

Delo 400 is 15/40, but maybe the reason it sounds quieter is it is fresh oil.

One other thing it has that older oil used to have is ZDDP, maybe that could make the difference, that I do not know, but I do know that it is better to use Delo 400 15/40 to break a fresh engine in because it has more ZDDP.

Link to comment

Hey, just letting you know I did got the console on Thursday. I've just been super busy and haven't had time to install it.  :thumbup:

 

I'm doing my oil change too soon and wondering if I should try this Delo 400. Sounds like it's better.

 

I bent my aluminum bracket by hand and just clamped it to a table. lol One thing though it I broke one side bending it too much so just a heads up. haha

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Geeze, wayno. And I just passed my medicare dimentia test too. I had to go out to the garbage and look at the jug again, to be sure. I could have sworn it said...  Anyway, ‘fresh oil’ is a new concept for me. That is to say, I’ve never heard it make things quieter before. Maybe the viscosity is enough different that it does that, I dunno.

 

I finally cut the hole for the stock air cleaner conversion today. Damn, it took a while too. Once I get it attached to the air cleaner body, I will post some pics. My hope is that I can route some warm air into the intake, making it a little less cold blooded on cold mornings.

Link to comment

I want to do the air cleaner mod, but I don't think it'll work with my Holley Weber clone. I suppose I'll just have to get a proper Weber one day. 

 

If the Holley is working fine, "it ain't broke don't fix it!"

 

you will have to make a different cutout for the air cleaner other than that I do not see why you can not do the air cleaner mod to the holley.

 

Sorry OlyinWa for the thread jack!

Link to comment

No problem- you are right. Once the obvious hole is cut out of the bottom on the stock air cleaner, you have all kinds of room to adjust / fit it to your carb.  Just something about the air cleaner setup on the Weber that looks cheesy and grossly imperfect to me. I don’t care for the lack of cold start thinking there, so I am hoping to get some of that back by adding back the foil hose to the exhaust baffle heater plate thingie down there, which is so often missing. Seems to me that there is a good reason why the intake air was designed to flow across the top of the engine from the exhaust side. I think that I could fit the stock air cleaner to pretty much any carb, just the way I am doing it with this one. More pics to follow,

 

TESTINGWITHAFILTER_zps6ddf155c.jpg

DeepPurple_zpsa00498a3.jpg

Link to comment

The Holley is a water choke, and is from a '73 vega, The shaft hole (not sure what else to call it) is worn out of round and leaks a bit. It runs alright, but the idle can be erratic, probably fluctuates (+-)200RPM depending on the breeze. 

Is it a shaft hole or is it the plastic bushing that ships with rebuild kits?

 

Here is a fix for that if the shafts are worn measure them and call Peirce Manifolds to order new shafts for your carb.  Throw a kit in it while you are at it.  Explain what you have Weber parts will interchange on most Weber parts.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Dellorto-Solex-Carburetor-Throttle-Shaft-Bearings-VW-Alfa-Fiat-Porsche-/160736508037?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256ca47885&vxp=mtr

 

$%28KGrHqJHJC4E8fYl4,hBBPOchPelGQ~~60_57

 

Years ago Weber and Holley manufactured to many of the water choke carbs and had a surplus of them.  So they took the surplus and changed them form water choke to electric choke and sold them at a reduced price.  These carbs were sold with the "A" stamp still on them.  Used to see a lot of them a few years back.  Saw one one a Mazda truck in a wrecking yard a few weeks back.

Link to comment

Big Thanks on Thanksgiving!

I just wanted to post a note of thanks to all of my Ratsun compares- especially all of you who have helped me get my trucks together. Wayno, Mike, Guam, Charlie, Banana, Four, JoeCool- to everyone who knew the answer or had the part I needed- many thanks to each and all of you. I hope you are enjoying a good one today. and, oh yeah, Go Hawks!

 

Sure, it is Thanksgiving. And sure, I am making the dinner here for about a dozen people. That doesn’t mean I can’t make time to replace my clutch pedal rubber! Done, and done. Gotta make it better, every day, in some small way

  • Like 1
Link to comment

No problem- you are right. Once the obvious hole is cut out of the bottom on the stock air cleaner, you have all kinds of room to adjust / fit it to your carb.  Just something about the air cleaner setup on the Weber that looks cheesy and grossly imperfect to me. I don’t care for the lack of cold start thinking there, so I am hoping to get some of that back by adding back the foil hose to the exhaust baffle heater plate thingie down there, which is so often missing. Seems to me that there is a good reason why the intake air was designed to flow across the top of the engine from the exhaust side. I think that I could fit the stock air cleaner to pretty much any carb, just the way I am doing it with this one. More pics to follow,

 

I didn't like how the little filter supplied with the Weber looks either, let alone the stupid little clips that fall off, so I bought an adapter from Redline and did THIS:

 

294406D2-8C75-441F-81FF-A4B6F1EB3447_zps

  • Like 2
Link to comment

Nice looking engine room! Your Edelbrock air cleaner has much more cool factor than the little stock Weber air cleaner, for sure. But it still doesn’t address the need to mix in a little warm air as soon as possible on those cold start mornings, like today. My 720 isn’t terribly cold blooded, but warming it up takes a while and I was hoping that the stock air cleaner would speed things up a little. And while driving around on a winter day, the Weber is sucking in only cold air from the intake side of the engine.

 

I don’t really know if it will make any huge difference, but my interest in adding the stock air cleaner back really comes from the desire to use the stock heat shield on the exhaust header to good effect, despite the carb replacement. The stock air cleaner has a vacuum activated flap arrangement that is, no doubt, open only when the engine is cold. I am simply going to drill the flap out to some degree and bypass all of that, so that there is some warm air going in all the time. If that creates any problems on a hot summer day, I will simply disconnect the tube during the summer months. I nabbed an exhaust header heat shield the other day (my truck didn’t have one) so I am pretty close to hooking it all back up again. Today being a free day, I should get something done.

Link to comment

It has been Spokane cold here for a few days, but that hasn’t kept the shark from feeding on the carcass. No, no, no. The Law of Nature says you eat while food is there, hungry or full, because it may not be there tomorrow. So I relegate my parts picking on the ’86 720 King Cab ST down on Row 25 in the Tumwater Pick-a-Part to what is realistic in the ‘heat of the day’. Yesterday, we peaked at about 36 degrees, just warm enough for me to pull the entire floor carpet out of the carcass intact. It has very little wear and- the best part- it is black. No, wait- the best part is that it was 15 bucks, the second best part is that it is black, etc. With a good shampooing, I think I can return it to well over 90%.

 

I am guessing that all the cinnamon brown 720 trucks all came with a harvest gold carpet, which is repellent (to me) even when fresh and new. Mine has all sorts of shabby black stains, of course, and fairly heavy wear. It looks a bit Aberdeen, if you know what I mean. And then there is one other consideration that perhaps you are uniquely qualified to understand; after owning a 76 Datsun truck in Harvest Gold, I never want to own anything in Harvest Gold (or Avocado, for that matter) ever again. Lord have mercy! Now today, I enjoy seeing one, because I loved that old truck. But I hated owning that color. Just me, I suppose.

 

So in the ‘heat’ of the day today, I am going to remove all the interior (sinchy and fun) check the floor pan situation, and fit my ‘new’ black ST carpets. How satisfying is that? Oh, you bet I will post pics!

  • Like 1
Link to comment

It took all evening and four passes with the steam cleaner just to revive my ‘new’ black carpets. It took most of today to dry them out, ready for the install.

CLEANCARPETS_zps65b52244.jpg

 

And it didn’t take Madge five minutes to spot a good place to start shedding!

 

MADGErsquoSCARPETING_zpsa3f10e35.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment

So it is time to strip out the interior and replace the carpets. Here are three shots demonstrating why this carpeting had to go. Not such a sweet interior after all, huh? The clean black carpets will be a real improvement.

 

SEATSOUTDRIVERSSIDE_zpsbfd568ef.jpg

 

SEATSOUTCARPET_zps919aee68.jpg

 

Not a very pretty sight. Plenty of old water stains, fading, ugly color, etc, etc. But the worst news came when I probed the passenger side floor mat to discover a lake!

 

LAKE_zpsc8a2860b.jpg

 

I am used to 1949 Plymouths, so when I saw this, my heart sank. With an old Plym, if you find a swamp in the carpet, you can bet there are NO floorboards left on that side of the car and the rails are toast. This truck has so few rust issues anyway that I never thought to lift the rug to see how- or if- the pan itself had fared over the decade. More to the point, where was all of this water coming from?!?

 

I was so relieved to find that, despite the lake, there is only surface rust on the floorboards. Nothing that a little elbow grease, Por 15, and fiberglass matting won’t handle with ease. And look at those rails- clean as a whistle! Whew!

 

BAREFLOORBOTHSIDES_zps88cb0454.jpg

 

It stil begs the question- where does all the water come in? It is water, not coolant. The floorboards are dry up near the firewall. It looks to me like it is either leaking at the rear window seal, then flowing forward along the rails, or it is seeping in around the pillar, near the kick panel. I can find no evidence that the windshield is leaking.

 

Any thoughts? Maybe I should just use this opportunity to close it up while inside and have someone give it the rain test with a garden hose while I look for leaks with a flashlight. For the record, I went over to my 4x4 720 and checked and it too is damp on the passenger side carpet. Not a swamp, like this one was, but damp. Anyone solved this problem before?

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.