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Some rust above and below pedal box area, above is because of heat shield / sound deader on engine side traps moisture. Be glad if you don't have it.

 

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Rust gone

 

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All better now

 

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Rust cut out on passenger side

 

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offending piece

 

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All better, also widened the tunnel on the passenger side while I was at it

 

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So I have been pretending I know how to build a motor, well not really it had great compression but still freshen it a bit, surfaced head, lapped the valves, replaced valve seals, front and rear main seals, better cam, header, and a Weber carb. So it's time to put the valve cover back on and it just to ugly, lots of mounting nubs, ribs, raised lettering plus the usual fresh air port and PCV valve location. So here's my experiment, I'll wait to see how it works before calling it a good idea.

 

I want to be able to draw fresh air into to engine with out having a port in the valve cover for a hose to the air filter or a breather so the oil filler cap is going to become my breather for fresh air being drawn into the engine

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It will stick down where minimal oil is being thrown around and as long as I don't have to much blow by it should only have air entering the engine until shut down

 

So to draw air out of the engine I built a baffle in the back of the head using the same screen out of the baffle the factory had in the valve cover, I wrapped it around a vent tube and inclosed it with a larger tube  to limited oil being drawn in, then ported it out the side of the head. The PVC will be run inline in the hose to the intake.

 

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And the clean looking valve cover after some welding and grinding

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Happy to find a set of 4x100 staggered Libre copies from CSI (Carrol Shelby International). What I found on Wiki: American Racing sold the Libre molds to Shelby, who marketed the Libre under their own name. Some 13" Libres have raised lettering on one spoke reading "SCCA", indicating wheels that were specially made for SCCA's Spec Racer program.

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In my backwards neck of the woods we called the American Racing 200s "Coke Bottles" but it does seem the rest of the world called them "Daisies". Hey we were pretty homophobic back then and the only Daisy we'd let on our cars was girls wearing Daisy Dukes cut offs.

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Mine, its a square but fairly unmolested and not too much rust. Currently under the knife to remove all emissions from the M10, add in a Sanden A/C instead of the York. Also have a problem as a bolt broke in the timing cover back to the block (water pump). Not sure how to get it out without taking off the timing cover :(

 

Also changing the bumpers to early's and getting new wheels instead of the Bayer's. Won't be slammed though.

 

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Mine, its a square but fairly unmolested and not too much rust. Currently under the knife to remove all emissions from the M10, add in a Sanden A/C instead of the York. Also have a problem as a bolt broke in the timing cover back to the block (water pump). Not sure how to get it out without taking off the timing cover :(

 

Also changing the bumpers to early's and getting new wheels instead of the Bayer's. Won't be slammed though.

 

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Hey man, whats the offset of your current wheels? I can't run any higher of an offset than +15 due to it hitting my control arms on my e21 :/

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The front crossmember on these has the steering box and idler mounted on it so moving it around doesn't affect your steering geometry. There is an extension on the bottom of the uni-body subframe that the crossmember mounts to and by removing this you raise the crossmember by 1.75 inches.

 

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So you will have this

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instead of this

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The car is being built to run with the front low so lots of fab work ahead. Will this affect hood clearance - yes, will this effect trans tunnel clearance - yes, will this effect steering column alignment - yes. Like I said lots more fab work ahead.

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So is the idea to move it to better maintain LCA alignment when running it very low? 

That and to run a soft spring and not slam the pan and crossmember. I expect to have to try lots of different combos of snubbers. Hopping to have the first 1.5 or so of travel be pretty soft and use progress snubbers to firm up gently. It's diffinitely an experiment as the only 02's I see with a good stance are rock hard or air up to get around well

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That and to run a soft spring and not slam the pan and crossmember.

 

I like this plan.  :thumbup:

 

I've had a few low-ish cars with a good ride, never a very low one. Would love to have that at some point...

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Grandpa always said when you're standing in the engine compartment working on things

 

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You should have a big hole in your firewall to set your tools so they wont get knocked on the floor

 

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Thanks

 

What I lack in skill I make up for in labor. I can usually make a two hour job turn out decent if i spend a whole weekend doing it

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The original engine compartment sheet metal you see is only 20 gauge. The new strut tower is 1/8" metal and is welded into the factory sub structure that is underneath the 20 gauge and is stamped out of 1/8 also. So what you see from the top isn't where most the strength comes from so I ground those welds down smooth. The rest will get seam sealed.

 

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