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1971 Datsun 510 VG33e


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Hello all,


I'm posting some current pictures of my 510 as Jason has been asking me to post some pics of the car. Feel free to ask me any questions in regards to the car as pretty much everything is done. The car works really well and have been pleased with it for the last summer as it took awhile to sort out the last 10%.


Engine is a 2004 Xterra VG33e with Stage 3 Nismo cams, 60mm throttle body, custom made equal length headers into a 3in ext.


It has a team thump racing engine kit and a custom made trans mount to fit the Ext.


Rear end- 2004 WRX Auto 4:11 ratio with custom CV's


z32 four wheel disk.


Evo 8 Recaro Seats


Thats just a start feel free to ask any questions





Hope you enjoy











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Lowering a 510 is very hard if you want to do it the right way. My car is about as low as I want it for street driving as the car squats a significant amount with the amount of torque. You will need to clearance where the drive axle travel to lower the car any more also. IF you plan on running the stock axles you will have a significant vibration from the U joints binding also if you to lower your car without more modification. You as a driver need to set your car up for the type of driving that you prefer. I prefer the cars handling over the stance for this car.


Another consideration is the clearence for the ext. on speed bumps and what other stuff.


Also I'm using a 17 inch wheel which gives me a overall heigth that is higher then

a low profile 15 inch.


The car is pretty low in all considerations of driving and suspension setup.


hope I answered your question.



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Very nice car! I remember it from Canby :D What is done to the front suspension? In the engine bay photo it looks like the stock top hats are pushed in a bit.. What else has been done to the front suspension? What alignment do you run? I'm always curious to find out what specs other people enjoy :D

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So the front suspension is 200sx front struts with 1" bump stops and 5 way adj. inserts. It has heim joints on the lower control arms and top camber plats that are rubber isolated. The TC rods are machined down for more caster and still needs a little more. A 1" front sway bar to help the sway. Thats pretty much it and it works pretty well. It is nothing special.


The torque numbers are kind of in the air as I have not made it to a dyno yet and I'm using the 200sx intake and have very free flowing headers that will mover the torque to a more usable position and have a HP increase at the top end. The seat of pants feel is very strong. :D


The cams defiantly make it have a lump in idle but I think I have some more tuning. I have not had any problems with the ECU or management system but I also think that is where more power is to be had. I will have a better idea after it has been on the dyno.


I pretty much have no time as I'm working crazy hours to get my roadster off to paint. I will try to get a some pictures up and loaded of the roadster in the next few weeks.


Hope this answers your questions

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  • 2 weeks later...
That would mean two resonators and two mufflers and nowhere to put them, especially on a low 510. Noisier in the cabin, potential to get exhaust funes into the cabin more likely, exhaust grime on the side of a nice white paintjob...


good point good point i would still run the duels :D but you make good points thanks for clearing it up

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Rear Brakes are z32 calipers modified from a 200sx bracket and rotor as they are

non vented as I didnt want the weight. I put some machined spacers inside the piston so I could use the rotor. The down fall to my setup is no ebrake and alot of work.


The rear end is a r160 out of a 2004 WRX auto with 4:11 gears. The cv's are a custom set up as they use a combinations of Subaru and Nissan parts and custom machined axles and is very labor intensive. But they seem to work really well.


The picture of the rear end is very old and is the old ext system using a 200sx manifold and 2.5 inch. Now I have a 3 individual tubes into a slip on burns collector that goes to 2.25 and then into the Y pipe and to 3 inch. It is a pain to package and is really hard to get quiet but really flows well. 3inch is way beyond what is need for the HP out put.


As for the engine positionis is close but not crazy close as the heater valves

are a challenge. If I would do it again I would move it back about a inch to make it crazy close.


Headlights are 745 BMW DOT housings that have been modified with clear glass and use a g35 HID buld and ballast. Work amazing


Thanks Eric

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Headlights are 745 BMW DOT housings that have been modified with clear glass and use a g35 HID buld and ballast. Work amazing


Thanks Eric


Im still lost in the world of headlights... do you think if you had time you could post a kind of walk through build about it? did you just break some 6" glass ones and glue it all back together around them?

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The headlights are like I said a 745 BMW headlight taken apart. I then proceed with striping the lens off which is not easy. Heat helps. Hot glass burns! I then bought a clear glass lens off ebay. The way the shoulder is on the new lenses fit poorly so you will have to play with clearances as the reflector part is to tall to fit under the new glass lens. This takes some time and is very frustrating. I then had to modify the bulb by grinding it down and make a retaining to fit the the inside the housing. You might also have to hog out where the bulb sits in housing to make it auto center. After that all you have to do is make a mount to hold the ballast from getting wet and close to the headlight. I decided on right next to the radiator. You will have to modify the headlight buckets also and figure out a way to adjust the headlight.


They are a ton of work and a lot of money. Now if you don't go to a HID you dont need to change the lens or modify the bulb and housings. Then you will use a standard H4 bulb with the projector and they work well. You will still need to modify the buckets and make them adjust but that is it.


I know it is hard to understand my info as I really can't document well. I in no way did it the only way to so if you really want a set you should buy a set of used set of ballast and bulbs and the housings and start playing with the parts. The housings are very delicate so be care full.


Hope I answered you questions.



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