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Feels like autumn.


DatMo

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240 is too hot. Your car don't need elect fans. I don't have those on mine and runs fine. Tstat is 160, stock fan and radiator. When it gets like 90 or so here in the bay area, my 510 at traffic would register about 170 degrees.

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240 is too hot. Your car don't need elect fans. I don't have those on mine and runs fine. Tstat is 160, stock fan and radiator. When it gets like 90 or so here in the bay area, my 510 at traffic would register about 170 degrees.

I had a clutch fan and it had the same ordeal as well as it being locked so I just went to electric. Quieter more spacious in the engine bay. something's wrong here. Maybe I need a new thermostat.
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  • 3 weeks later...

So the car keeps shutting down after 20 or so minutes of driving. I'm just done with the headache so I'm taking it to Sylvester if any of you know him. It's getting fuel and spark. Timing is good. Carbs are rebuilt good etc. it's not over heating. Not sure at this point so just gonna let him handle it.

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That's very strange.

I figured maybe something got in my carbs but I cleaned em out? My only thought is that the floats in the carbs are bad because the car will start back up after a few hours of sitting? But even then I figured the float would of settled quicker? I don't understand! And yes, I've also made sure that I have gas etc.
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Are you running an electric fuel pump?

No I'm running a stock 510 pump and I replaced it. It is getting fuel.

It seems that Sylvestor may fall through and I asked for s receipt for his work. Just something small hand written and he freaked out which scares me. I'm looking for a local mechanic to the Torrance area. And not left coast datsun because chuck is almost a prick in his work. Said he put 11 hours into my car which is ridiculous for almost nothing to have been done.

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So I was able to find the issue. Weirdly enough, it seemed that the fuel lines were clogged from the point after my filter before my pump but what's weird is when i checked if the pump was shooting fuel into some bucket that was to go into the carbs, it was shooting fuel. I'm assuming that the lines had a ton of gas in them or something to shoot fuel in them. I replaced all the rubber lines into an external gas tank and it worked. It was a really weird situation. I also took off my valve cover and noticed that I'm running rich but it seems my idle is okay? I adjusted my carbs to be set at 3 on air flow meter and it idles at about 1000. I'm not sure if its running super rich on the throttle but I need to find a solution. I'm in the process of replacing all my hard-lines. I'm not sure which fuel line it is so i figured id do them all. I flushed my tank at least 15 times prior so I'm super surprised it clogged somewhere in there. 

 

Also, my temp gauge is fluctuating with my throttle which doesnt make sense? I've bought two new sensors. The gauge does go to max hot when it's grounded as well so the gauge works. And also, if anyone else has a speedhut fuel psi gauge, does anyone have the issue where its not reading anything?

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Got the car running. It turned out to be that one of my two fuel filters was actually broken within the filter and wouldn't allow pass to run through.

 

Are there two gaskets for the differential? Isn't there the case and also the insulator gasket?

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Its a suck job.  Heavy rubber mallet indeed.  Knock back and forth, side to side.  As soon as you get a gap to open, put a screw driver in there, and hit from the other side.

 

Just keep working it, and opening up the gap.  Took me at least an hour.

 

You could slide hammer the flange, but it will be rough on the bearing.

 

Remember... have fun!  Do it in a Datsun, YAYYYYYYYY...fart.

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Axles are out, I've been hammering and me and some friends were going damn hard at it and nothing. I can't even get gal. I don't wanna slide hammer the flange because the bearing. I've already got both axles out. I even torched it to expand some room but nothing. Losing my shit here.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update, I ended up getting it off after torching it for 30 minutes or so and it became red hot and there was a small fire but I was able to pull it out from the flange point which wasn't hot.

I replaced the gasket but now the diff is still leaking. I moved to Newport so the car is back home. The point it's leaking from seems to be the point where the driveshaft connects to the flange. This makes me believe I may have overfilled it? I wasn't aware that there was even a gasket at the flange point?

 

I'm also going to buy an Air oil separator but I'm having issues figuring out what size hose the pcv is on the valve cover?

 

My brakes also froze up recently but I changed the wheel cylinder and I'm going to adjust my pushrod a little bit out? Figured it was too much pressure?

 

The car is also acting super weird, I'm pretty sure it's the carburetors and I really don't understand dellortos well. It's running rich it seems but then on throttle, it seems like it's not getting fuel or it's sucking in a ton of air?

 

Also, I had an idea to use a sound bar as speakers in the car because it's Bluetooth etc. it seems to be a good idea because i can post it in the back of the car and it's perfect for hangouts?

 

Last issue is my headlights. They'll randomly turn off but if I take the fuse out and put it back in, it works fine. Can anybody explain this?

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Leaking from drive shaft you have a bad seal.

 

Carb issue is common with the big side drafts really rich at idle but lean at wot, it's just too much carb for the engine.

I'll look into the flange on the diff to fix that leak as soon as possible then.

 

As far as the carbs, how do I fix that?

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