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Feels like autumn.


DatMo

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The clutch fan on the engine is very loud.

Sounds like a god damn jet engine. Anything to do about it?

The fan is almost louder than the car and all.

 

 

Edit: looks like I'll be getting an electric fan. Anyone recommend anything in specific that's quiet? I'm looking for one that's almost soundless lol. I've heard s-shaped is more quite. I was considering a spal. So thin they don't need to cut the water pump

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Is your fan clutch working correctly so the fan isn't spinning full engine speed? When a clutch fails and locks up, fans spinning 4500 rpm sound like a jet taking off.

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Is your fan clutch working correctly so the fan isn't spinning full engine speed? When a clutch fails and locks up, fans spinning 4500 rpm sound like a jet taking off.

It is locked. How would I unfreeze it?
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ROFL. Yup, you just need a new fan clutch. On an L series, that means new water pump.

Loll old guy I asked was telling me that I should stick the fan still and crank the engine. He owns two real Shelbys so I took him for credible. I like the idea of electric a lot better. I may just shave down the rod on there currently and get an electric.
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I hate that my choke is awkward on my carbs. Instead of pulling, they would need a push because the choke pull is towards the front of the car. Anyone run any universal chokes?

 

Edit: after doing more research, I may be leaning to just replace my water pump with an l16/18 water pump. Are those straight bolt on to l20. I have the l20 fan but is it compatible? If any of these were not, it would be easier to just get an electric fan

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Yes they bolt on. Need different fan though.

Yeah I'll just get a spal. The 10inch r0podoe has been running seems to be doing him just fine and it pulls 800cfm which I think is fine for the l series. Now to figure out the choke situation.

 

It seems to only be one fan that's really necessary with a stock l series. I've noticed a lot of people running two but that's almost over kill. I'd be running one 10 inch puller which is 100% efficiency according to spal.

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Make a lever that mounts forward of the carbs so when you pull the choke cable to the rear it pull the choke to the front.

 

Fulcrum point in the middle pull on the bottom and the top goes forward.

gotcha that makes plenty sense. Thanks man. I'll have to make a mount or something now.

 

With that being said, I can't find a spot that sells choker cables longer than 28inch. I figured I'd need plenty of length because of compensation of pulling forward.

 

 

Edit: picked up an extended universal dorman carb choke cable.

It's a single piece so I'm going to try running it through both carbs.

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You can go two routes, have the cable go around some kind of mandrel and turn back towards the firewall to pull the chokes forward.

 

Or you have the regular rear pull cable pull on linkage/lever that turns rear pull into front pull.

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I have the same problem. We are both using carbs original intended to be on the other side of the engine. 

 

My "fix" for now was to attach a piece of safety wire holding them together so I can just pull one, then crank it up from under the hood when it's too cold out. 

 

Need to come up with a more permanent solution some day. My shopmate just says to use the "Porsche choke". Which means pump the shit out of the throttle when starting it in cold weather...   :rofl:

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I have the same problem. We are both using carbs original intended to be on the other side of the engine.

 

My "fix" for now was to attach a piece of safety wire holding them together so I can just pull one, then crank it up from under the hood when it's too cold out.

 

Need to come up with a more permanent solution some day. My shopmate just says to use the "Porsche choke". Which means pump the shit out of the throttle when starting it in cold weather... :rofl:

That's because racecar, I've seen them do it with $500 circle track cars to $5 million vintage cars.
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You can go two routes, have the cable go around some kind of mandrel and turn back towards the firewall to pull the chokes forward.

 

Or you have the regular rear pull cable pull on linkage/lever that turns rear pull into front pull.

Of the two, I've decided to go the first route. I'll update this week to let you guys know how the new fan and choker worked out.

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I have the same problem. We are both using carbs original intended to be on the other side of the engine.

 

My "fix" for now was to attach a piece of safety wire holding them together so I can just pull one, then crank it up from under the hood when it's too cold out.

 

Need to come up with a more permanent solution some day. My shopmate just says to use the "Porsche choke". Which means pump the shit out of the throttle when starting it in cold weather... :rofl:

i live in California so I would say it's not exactly NECCESARY however I would much rather have one.
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I'm also gonna be cutting my shifter to see if I can make the throw a bit better.

 

Well first I purchased bushings that I'm gonna test out to see if there's improvement. I've also realized I could swap the rod so that the curved edge is closer to me for a shorter throw.

 

Now just to get some l mounts sorted for the choke as well as the linkage and I should be good to go!

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My boo boo linkage took a shit on me and the car is off the road now lol.

 

With that being said, my rear end flops around a lot. Is there anything to do that can fix that? I feel like it's almost too light.

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Flops around?

My dad drove behind me today and he said when there were bigger bumps in the road, the car was lighting a lot off the back which somewhat gave me oversteer. Any counters?
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