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H20doctor

Datsun 610 engine Blowed up Take #2

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Well after driving my car and then coming home, the next day I started it and there was a bad knocking sound coming from the engine... so i shut it off immediately to prevent further damage to the engine..... I spent 3 hours on it today and tore it down... 

 

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So far i have not found the knocking culprit.... plugs look great.. head is good , all lash pads in tack and valves opening and close good.... Piston and cylinder walls look good... 

I am going to pull the block later this week, and as i suspect its going to be a crank issue, or crank bearing issue...

 But my major problem is the radiator is shot, and i cant find ANY TO REPLACE it with..

My only option is to use my new 620 truck radiator With a transmission cooler ( Hayden ) attached to the front of it .... A rebuild 610 radiator or re core is 300 to 500 Bucks.... Any radiator suggestions would be Helpful as im stuck in this area 

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Easier to take the head off with the manifolds. Take them off later when it's easy to get at.

 

Not exact but if a 510 rad would work there's a nifty article  in the Dime Quarterly for using an aluminum VW Rabbit rad.

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well its off , and i got rid of all that EGR crap too ... this head has the coolant water running through the head ? my L20 engine doesnt ... so Im going to have plug up the Intake manifold water lines because my new Block and Head dont have them 

 

 

Here is the transmission cooler i was told to use since my car is an automatic 

 

http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/tc-oc-1405?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=comparison_shopping&gclid=CLPR-t2z2r8CFVJefgod5a8ANQ

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The '74 610 should have an L20B but that has an L18 intake and exhaust on it at the least. Now it may have been swapped onto the L20B but I would check the engine by looking on the flat boss just behind the dipstick. I think it's an L18 engine for several reasons.

 

Check that head you just took off by looking on the bottom outside edge between the #1 and #2 spark plug. It should be a U67 but may be an A87 (which did have the water passages into the intake)

 

 

You do not need to plug up the water passages on the intake. Just drill two 1/4" holes in the new head, or keep and use that A87 head. Use the gasket as a template and run that L18 intake and the L18 cast iron header..

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Ithe only test I ran was my ear hearing a really bad engine knock, that was it.. Lol  :thumbup:

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The egine is original to the car.. L20b , U67 head

 

Would you check the block ID, please? It should be an L20B / U67 but some things have definitely been changed on it. Look behind the dipstick just below the head.

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? dont know why you have doubts but ok .... here is the pics , whats so strange if i may ask ?

 

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Im not a 610 expert , ive owned this car since 1986 when i bought it from the lynnwood nissan dealer for 800.00 .... 

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OK this picture shows the block vent coming out directly to the side just like the L16/18s do.

 

The U67 head normally does not have coolant ports on it that connect up to the intake yet this intake obviously does.

 

The exhaust manifold also looks like an L16/18 and nothing like the usual L20B ones.

 

 

This is one of the earliest L20Bs though so must be like that. This is the oddest L20B I have ever seen. Very unique.

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well maybe its a US model verses Canada ? ... But yes i am amazed to see the water ports there also ....i agree the vent tube is very different than my 610 truck crank case vent tube... But since Im not using this block anymore , its going into the shed... the block im now throwing in it is a L20B block from a truck with No water Ports in the head ...

 The block went in to the shop today it will be ready in a week... I gave up on the radiator search, and im throwing in a 620 truck RAD instead with a trans cooler ... I have to make a braket to make it mount in as the truck Rad is 1 inch smaller on both sides... i got estimates on the recore for the car and it ran 300 to 500 dollars... screw that , no way  

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No it's probably just the way yours is.  I keep forgetting the L20B didn't all come out in '75, 610s are proof of that. I have a '74 710 and it was still an L18. The 610 jumped to the L20B sooner.

 

Tell me....the U67 head off of it has the coolant holes in it for the intake  ??? Never seen that before.

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well maybe its a US model verses Canada ? ... But yes i am amazed to see the water ports there also ....i agree the vent tube is very different than my 610 truck crank case vent tube... But since Im not using this block anymore , its going into the shed... the block im now throwing in it is a L20B block from a truck with No water Ports in the head ...

 The block went in to the shop today it will be ready in a week... I gave up on the radiator search, and im throwing in a 620 truck RAD instead with a trans cooler ... I have to make a braket to make it mount in as the truck Rad is 1 inch smaller on both sides... i got estimates on the recore for the car and it ran 300 to 500 dollars... screw that , no way  

For what it is worth, I bought a new 3-row aluminum radiator from Champion Radiator in Lake Elsinore, CA. I was running a '77 810 radiator in my 610 sedan when the radiator bit the dust. I took them the old radiator as a template and they custom made me one based on the old radiator - with automatic stubs at the bottom - for $310 out the door. I can attest, it is one of THE BEST investments I have ever made for my 610. The 810 radiator mounting is wider than the 610, but uses the entire core support opening for the radiator core, so you have to drill 4 new holes in the core support. A small price to pay for a major increase in cooling capacity and efficiency.

 

(BTW: Love your sedan!)

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Mike, that's the oddball 1974 L20B.  They're the only ones with the straight-out PCV, and the combination of coolant ports in the head with square exhausts.  However, they usually have the U60 head.

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Doug I remember you saying something about the early L20Bs before. NWDE?

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Probably here, actually.  Back in the NWDE days I didn't know of the early U60 L20Bs.  Now I know there were at least 4 block variants, and maybe more, with unique casting IDs.  Maybe even more than there were of head castings. 

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Well I got to work on the car today , I have had these car seat covers in storage since 1994 , i bought them from a guy on ebay from a place called East Coat Imports located In PA ... I was amazed at how nice they fit on the back seats, and they are really top quality ...  15259141211_28722ac9a1_c.jpg

 

 

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Any Ideas on how to fix my trim ? the plastic rivets have broken ... im wondering what other 610 owners have done ?

 

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thanks Micro , i was racking my brain on how this was going to be fixed..? seems Like a simple thing now.. I was going to JB weld small All thread to the trim and then take the door apart and screw it on from the inside with a Bolt >> HA HA HA HA HA , 

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Just a update... I'm still getting the engine bay detailed with por 15 , then I will be getting the new engine installed

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it would appear and I found a stuck frozen exhaust valve .... Why it seized ? no clue , i drove it for an hour ... came home , Next day .... engine noise .... So yes everything got tore down , the engine bay is empty , i am waiting for some warmer dry weather to paint the Bay... I have a fresh rebuilt Block , new pistons, rings , hot tanked , cleaned ready to go , with a New rebuilt U67 head... Port and Polished intake / exhaust... new webber to Boot also ....  

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