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Nasty ass lz23 v2


scooter

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Not sure if the tranny cooler would flow enough oil. Too much restriction, and the filter by-pass on the block will begin to open.

 

Here's the ford cooler I was talking about,

 

IMG_1407_zpscecbfi0m.jpg

 

Picked this up for $30 brand new off eBay.. Unfortunately, on my 620 it gets the filter a little to close to the frame rail, so I'll either need to use a shorter filter or 90* adapter....

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  • 1 year later...

UPDATE:

 

The car now has a 71c in it, and a ford 8.8 in the rear.

 

Ive been hitting it with the 75 shot with great results. Been doing pulls with a friends subaru sti, that has a built motor in it on 20psi..

 

On the bottle it pulls away from the subaru.. Haha.

 

I really need to get this thing on the dyno

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I cut a rad open once to see what the auto trans 'cooler' looked like. Get ready for this.... It was just a metal pipe just like the hard lines from the transmission. About 6 or 8" long...... that's it. A few inches of pipe surrounded by hot rad coolant. No fins, no back and forth coils.... just 6" of pipe. ANYTHING would be better.

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Theres drag races in osoyoos near the end of september, i now have slapper bars on the car and a 2 step rev limiter so it should launch excellent, aiming for an 8 flat in the 1/8th.

 

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Yes that battery starts it, no its not staying like that.. Dont ask...

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The top line is the cell vent, the fuel lines are underneath.

 

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At least 600 pounds lighter.

 

I sold the h165 to some guy with a raced out 1200 in Kelowna. Had 3.88's in it.

 

I didn't launch it hard cause I thought it would break.

 

It has a Ford 8.8 out of a 92 Ranger, posi, 3.73, I turned the axle flanges down so I could use s13 rear disks and then I used s12 front calipers on them for the rear.

 

The tranny is a 280z front case with a D21 back half. Driveshaft is a shortened fox body one piece with 1310 style heavy duty u joints.

 

The rear shock mounts were moved outwards and pro shocks were installed, the worn out rubber shackle bushings are now aluminum and and I used a chevy 4x4 poly leaf bushing for the front mount with larger bolts up there.

 

The sliders in between the leafs were toast so I put in two layers of crazy carpet material between each spring.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well. No dyno yet, but I took it to the 1/8th mile drags and mustered up a 9.24 at 78 mph with the 75 shot. I have a video but it's on facebook.

 

I need to put the slicks on next time cause the 205 wide toyo ra1's aren't enough tire and my 60 foot times suck. On slicks I should be into the eights, and the last track day of the year is comming so I might bump it up to 100. Yeehaw!

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  • 2 years later...

Ah  it is so fun reviving old threads. I never ended up dynoing this thing and this fall I took it apart as it was time to have a look. For an update the car has run down to an 8.2 on the 100 jets with shit track prep. Also the tranny started to have issues on the 1-2 shift. This 8.2 run had mashing gears on the 1-2 shift for about a second and was crunchy going 2-3. time to take that caitlyn jenner apart..

Below i will be posting "Nasty ass lz23 the refresh" 

whats new this year? stay tuned to find out. Im currently waiting on photobucket so i can post this bukkake of engine and transmission porn. were passing the sevens' this year and going for a high 6. gonna get kicked off the track for going too fast... thats the goal anyway..

 

 

 

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so the start of all this madness happened in the fall with this:

IMG_0233_zpspqsghuhi.jpg

someone got a little agressive with the timing.... 125hp shot of nitrous

For fear that i really mashed it up, out it came. Along with the tranny. Unfortunatly i dont have pictures of the broken pieces but what happened is the brass pad came off the 1-2 shift fork and broke the tip of the fork off = shitty shifting. This was just a junkyard d21 trans to begin with so no suprise.

IMG_0344_zpsigsqkoyb.jpg

here is the leftover guts from the trans rebuild. So what I ended up doing is buying an OK S13 tranny for the guts. I ended up using all the gears out of it and the shift forks. To make this work I had to completely dissassemble the cluster to remove the s13 tailshaft so i could use the D21 one. It was re-assembled with an ebay synchro and bearing kit and should be good to go. One gain this got me was double cone synchros, which the d21 trans did not have. I also have a better overdrive now, I believe it will be stronger as well as the teeth are much thicker than the D21 ones. 

IMG_0342_zpszgqs2oj0.jpg

Ta Da!

back to the motor madness...

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it got a little toasty in the center, otherwise it doesnt look too bad other than the melted plugs.... no evidence of metal bouncing around.

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It was juuust starting to blow the head gasket in the center. if i hit this again with the 125 shot i think it would have been puking coolant. this thing ran fine and didnt have any signs of a blown head gasket.

IMG_0278_zpswb5qpbic.jpg

Pistons and cylinders look great! im very satisfied with this considering it ran 4 years with no air filters on it.

After taking apart the head, i found that the exhaust guides were annhilated. Off to the machine shop for the head. I actually got them to knock the guides out and took it back so i could hog it out more, while parts arrived. In the previous incarnation I left a fair bit of meat in the exhaust port and ive learned quite a bit since doing this one 4 years ago.

So this is what it looks like now.

IMG_0304_zpsl7yjfdpp.jpg

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ive laid back the chamber a little bit more on the spark plug side to try and help flow, and around the outer edges of the valve even more. Ive certainly lost compression doing this but thats okay.. maybe i'll be able to get by on 94 on the street now. 

another thing that was attacked fiercely with the die grinder is the intake... stock cannon intakes are cast with wee runners in them, and have a machined bevel in the throats to match a 45mm carb. they are kinda horrendous if your trying to make good power. so.....

IMG_0310_zpsq3ihnbcb.jpg

this is a massive improvement and now has a proper taper from 45mm to the head ports (40mm??) I also had slugs welded on for the nitrous nozzles so theres more than a thread and a half holding them in now. they also sit alot higher in the port now, and may make the engine run a little better when not on the juice.

IMG_0319_zpsrq6h7nl1.jpg

 

More to come 🙂

 

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  • 3 months later...
  • scooter changed the title to Nasty ass lz23 v2
On 6/28/2019 at 5:55 AM, datzenmike said:

IMG_0280_zps31mydj3z.jpg

 

Maybe time to O ring next time it's out?

 It has a kameari mls type gasket now, ran a whole bottle through with the 125 jets with no problems. Torquing the head studs felt alot more positive when it got to spec vs the composite one. 

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  • 1 month later...

ive been lazy AF and i need to put some more pics up. I have a pile of pics from assembling the motor that im just going to spam below.

Here is the head in all its glory, went with brass guides this time. The water ports above the exhaust seem to help. i approve of this mod and got this idea from the L6 guys.

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I cheated the geometry a little bit and im seeing .560 lift out of the .530 lift z-196 isky cam now... and the CWC core hasnt died yet..

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i re-used the ferrea valves as they looked good and ground up just fine.

I changed from stock rods to pauter rods this time, as i have good pistons and didnt want to buy new ones. this was a piece of mind purchase more than anything but they are a shitload lighter than the stockers.. over 200 grams per rod! they are L20b length keep your rod ratio comments the fuck away from this thread 😄 😄

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I put a www.crank-scrapers.com crank scraper in it. its okay.. this is my lazy ass attempt to improve oil control as its a hell of alot cheaper than a comp pan. it was bolt in other than i had to drill the holes bigger to go over the bottom end stud nuts as i didnt like the idea of sandwiching this between the cap and nut head as its just sheet metal. so far so good. oh and the dipstick hole as this is cut for a z22 bottom end.

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Previously I was using a chevy alternator and chevy lower pulley on the front of the damper and a chebby water pump pulley. i killed 2 chebby alternators then i realized they were probably spinning 20000rpm so now i went to this crazy underdriven setup.. which works really well exept the alternator shuts off below 1000 rpm.

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here is the shorty together. pistons stuck out of the hole a shitload so im using the 1.5mm kameari MLS gasket. i ditched the stock flywheel and its now rockin a GRW lightweight RB25 flywheel with theyre centering ring. its a good setup and now ive gone from a 225mm clutch to a 240mm clutch. I lost 12 pounds off the flywheel doing this. the downside to this is I bought an exedy pro kit rock auto special 300zx turbo clutch and the pressure plate is heavy as shit. so I might have trimmed a couple pounds off the rear but its not much lighter due to the heavy ass pressure plate. It has enough grip but i desire something lighter.

70CFC2A2-174C-4272-9C64-8E55BA6609AC_zps

 

 

 

well I have a couple bottles through it now with the 125 jets with no melted plugs and an in-tact head gasket. time to up the spray some more. I bought a 15 pound bottle cause it doesnt last as long now as the last time around i ran out of juice in the finals 😞

 

pretty much dead consistant 8.00 runs at thunder mountain which is at 4100 feet. Before next time out I have a few mods, I have a set of 4.10 gears and an exhaust dump to install, As well as bigger nitrous solenoids. right now its around 5000 rpm going through the traps in the 1/8th in 3rd, going to 4.10's will up it another 1000. the car is also hooking up like a BOSS as im getting 1.5 second 60 foots.

 

I repainted the engine bay and painted the valve cover, this isnt the most recent pic as ive powdercoated a bunch of brackets and the brake resivoir lids.

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should I try and stuff three kits on this thing?

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  • 3 months later...

more mods!

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ensured the intakes ported out properly, turns out i had it hourglass shaped. now you can drop a 1.5" flapwheel right through it!!

 

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2nd nitrous kit is getting added to the bottom of the intake.. yes it fits.. barely...

 

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if you didnt notice, the carb flange is opened up further too, cause theres a set of 50's about to arrive!

 

And finally,

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no more locked ignition! this is a ploy to increase average horsepower and be able to have a proper ignition map.

lets get some 7.00 second et's comming!

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, WAGON JON said:

You ever dyno the thing before the big bang?

I havint but i will be this time, it didnt make a big bang it just melted the plugs and was  killing the HG. Ran a few bottles through it this year on the 125 jets with good results. With the intake hogged out even more as of above im starting with 150 jets this season. I want to do a dyno session to get the ignition map optimised instead of just running a locked dizzy.

 

it ran consistant 8.0 1/8th mile passes(5 speed) Its around 325 wheel on the spray right now.

 

1 hour ago, wayno said:

Quit using Photolame(PB), we cannot see your photos as they are blurred out, find another photo hosting site.

I know its fuckin brutal. Is there any you can reccomend? Also id have to edit all my old posts with new links ( is that even possible?)  fuckin photopuke

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