nad015 Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 It won't let me post anymore pics for some reason V91 heads are the same as u67, I don't think you got v91s in USA I think they were cast in Australia and used locally on 910 bluebirds. Rods are standard l20b, flywheel is a from an L6 engine and has a 225mm clutch plate. The flywheel hasn't been lightened. 3500rpm is just a guess I honestly can't remember exactly where the power band starts. I'll have a closer look next time I drive it. I'm going to fit a wideband, then when I get a chance it's going to datsun work shop here in Australia to get run on the dyno Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Then your pistons are really short? I honestly think you're losing out on torque and drivability at that point. Sure its a super stroker but your stroke to rod length ratio is not very good. I remember talking to Dave Rebello in the early stages of my build. He recommended against using a z22 crank with l20 rods for a performance engine. So you've taken that to an even more extreme level. Your lack of low end power very well may be because you're losing out on low end torque from that set up. This is obviously all my opinion. Quote Link to comment
nad015 Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Here's a link to super L20b stroker build. http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67240840-L23-Datto-stroker-build-(56k-LOL) He's using 87.5mm pistons mine are 87mm same bottom end other wise. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Im using 87.5mm rods too. Looked at the build. Most of everything is quite nice, though I don't agree with everything that was done. I just skimmed through it but it seemed like he didn't change the valve springs at all which is kind of a must if you're getting a more aggressive cam. Im sure it puts out plenty of power but I think my set up puts out close the the same amount and I bet will have more torque and more low end power. Mine is very similar to this super stroker build but instead of a z24 I use a z22 crank and z20e rods. And forged wiseco pistons. So I have a 4mm smaller stoke but my rods are about 7mm longer and I have fully floating pins. I will be very interested to know the difference on the dyno. Quote Link to comment
nad015 Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 I'm using Mitsubishi 4g64 pistons Bad rod/stroke ratio is why many in aus don't like the l20b strokers, the other reason is to get to 2.4L capacity you need to bore the L20b block to 89mm. If I was paying big bucks for an engine I definately would not go down the same path. My engine cost me very little to build, my carbs and manifold represent way over half of the whole engine package. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted October 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Im just playing with tuning mine now, this thing has ALOT more bottom end than i thought it would, the weber intake roar is AWESOME! I can feel mine fall off towards the top end, but i think its leaning out. Im just working on some details with the rest of the car now, doing the nitrous plumbing and fuel setup for that, and odds and ends to make this thing decently drivable again. I need to do some pulls with either a wideband, or put it on the dyno like i planned. This could get intresting if everyone runs their stuff on a dyno, see who has the best frankenstein. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Any video of this thing running? Would really like to hear it! Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Im at work right now but ill be home on the 12th, ill try and get a vid up on youtube. I upped the throats in the 45's to 40mm, and have jetted it via wideband and butt dyno, the car rips! Its actually quite livable to drive around town.. If you granny it, it doesnt care about puttin around at 2000rpm, but it definitley starts pulling hard around 3500 all the way up to 7000, it will keep pulling till 8000 but not as well and ud be better to shift. I think theres more left in this combo, needs bigger carbs and a better header, aka nissan comp instead of a shorty. Havint fed it the juice as its allready putting a hurt on alot of other cars, and i dont wanna kill the dogleg thats in it. Another observation is it seems that im going to have to put an oil cooler on it, the oil runs really hot and pressure drops with 10-30' but it likes 15-50. It doesnt like pump gas, but it seems to be real happy on avgas, when i do get around to hitting the button, its gonna have a tank full of c16. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Summertime you should be running 20/50. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted July 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 They didnt have joe gibbs 20-50 in stock, so i got the 15-50. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 Get a high volume oil pump from a KA24e or KA24DE D-21 Hardbody truck. The internal rotors are 13% longer and move more oil. At low speeds and idle this will boost the hot oil pressure. My tired L20B was at 17 PSI hot idle and just the oil pump change boosted this to 29. The higher volume doesn't affect the over all pressure as this is set by a spring load although you can shim it. A rule of thumb for max pressure is 10 PSI for every 1,000 RPM you expect to run at. 70 would be plenty. For oil run 15W40 Chevron Delo 400 or Shell RotellaT. Every year oil makers are reducing the amount of ZDDP in their formulas as it fouls catalytic converters and gets into the environment. Newer cars are all roller rocker cam and don't need the extra scuff protection of the high zinc levels. Unfortunately our 'old' engines have what is known as 'flat tappet' cams and DO need protection from metal scuffing. Oil makers clain that the lower levels are well within the protection limits and that maybe the old ZDDP level was too high to begin with. Well it's MY engine and I decide what right for it. Both these oils are 'light' diesel oils that still contain reasonably high levels of ZDDP in their formula. A 15W40 should cover the temperature range from below freezing to well over 100F. Invest in a larger rad. Use a shroud to increase fan efficiency. If clutch fan equipped be sure the clutch oil has not leaked out and the fan too loose. The plastic blades should be very firm to move by hand. A Z24 water pump has a larger internal pump cavity and impeller and move more water. You will also need to change the plastic fan blades as well as the earlier ones are smaller and don't fit it. 1 Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 A Z24 water pump has a larger internal pump cavity and impeller and move more water. You will also need to change the plastic fan blades as well as the earlier ones are smaller and don't fit it. Are you saying a Z24 water pump fits an L20 timing cover...? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 .... yes. L16/18/20B water pump... Z24 water pump. Note the taller impellers and deeper cavity they sit in. You will need to use the Z24 fan as the L series are smaller and won't fit. Not sure about the fan shroud. .......................................L20B..........................................................................................Z24 . 1 Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 Wow, I had no idea this was possible. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 Ok. So L block should definitely get Z24 water pump and KA oil pump. Any other excellent tidbits to go with these? Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 That Z-24 fan looks like a 240-Z fan. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted July 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 Intresting about the z24 waterpump mike.. Its got a melling m111 on it which is a long rotor ka pump, joe gibbs 15-50 is racing oil and has shitloads of zinc in it. Its even better than rotella or delo. It also has a mishimoto 240z rad jammed in it, with electric fans.. It doesnt run hot at all!! I cant use that z24 waterpump unless i can put a normal hub mount pulley on it, i have a one inch spacer behind the water pump pulley so the belts work with the ati super damper thats on it, which has a flat style chevy lower pulley on it. It needs an oil cooler, i can touch the block after a good run, but the oil filter is wayyyyyyyyy hotter. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 Oil runs up to 100 degrees hotter than the coolant. That a Z22 block? The 280zx turbo oil cooler plumbing will fit it. Don't think I'll use the cooler itself but will make one out of a larger air conditioner condenser. . Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted July 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 Yes it is a z22 block. 280zx's are hard to find around here, but ford adapters work, as ford filters work. So thats what im probibly doing, probibly gonna get a matching mishimoto oil cooler and hang it off the front of the car all filthy like, like what some other people have been doing I have that little pipe on my oil filter threads.. Any reason why i should take it off? Any reason why i should keep it? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 It has to come off the block so the adapter fits, but should be put on the adapter. Looks like it forces the dirty oil to the back of the filter. Guess it has a reason to be there, I find it's less fumbling around to line it up to screw the filter on Quote Link to comment
620Turbo4X4 Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 I like the Modine water to oil coolers ford used. These also fit, if you have the space... Using the coolant gets oil up to temp quicker, and maintains it a bit above coolant temps. It's not a good to have your oil too cool. not only does it add drag and rob Hp., but it's not good for oil either. If oil never gets above 212F. the water that gets blown by from combustion can mix with sulfer (another by-product of combustion) and create acids. Good info on the water pump Mike. I'm going to want that for my turbo engine. So, the pulley lines up with the L series too? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Yeah. Had one on my L20B. VW had a water oil cooler mounted on the side of the block under the oil filter. There were about 15 of them (all cars had them on) in a local yard. Asked what they wanted for one.... $150!!! I laughed in his face and said just how many have you sold in the last 5 years. They're worth $400-500 he says. Right, I said. Hurt his feelings. Fuck that pisses me off that they thing the national price dictates what a local person would pay for one. 1 Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 It should line up if your using a stock lower pulley, im not, so it wont work for me :( 220-240 degrees is pretty much where you want it Ive been playing with the idea of plumbing it into the atf cooler in the bottom of my rad, im not sure if i can push enough oil through it though. Ah i should just dry sump this thing allready Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Dry sump? $$$ Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Theres a pile of money in it allready, if your gonna go retarded, might as well go full retard haha That may be a winter addition. Quote Link to comment
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