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71 521 something


earlyvws

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Close but not done. Too many things that take up time. Made the fuel pump block off and turned it into my water temp sensor holder. Totally unplanned.

 

D98F4DDF-A3BD-4B3D-AC2C-0F3549BCC46A.jpg

 

52ED1387-FD69-4E63-985E-3DEEDEB3D569.jpg

 

Made a small bracket to hold fuel pressure gauge. Need to extend the leg on the left.

 

24FCBD87-9F13-4EC1-8B3F-79D289015710.jpg

 

Most of the wiring is done. At least hooked up. Haven't tested yet. Still have to wire up fuel pump relay, disable link, and main battery wire to starter. I've been soldering all wires and it has been time consuming.

 

488172CC-E00B-4D16-9B7E-4524208BAF6F.jpg

2D0B8FA1-6BA7-4F73-9843-E07A8E7B9115.jpg

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BFC290B4-F4E2-457D-B3A9-3DBE87BF91C6.jpg

 

So there are 4 wires hanging down by the pedals. I'm pretty sure they are both hazard and turn flashers. But one set has spade connectors. Anyone have an idea why that would be. Because of this not 100% sure they are what I think they are.

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Close but not done. Too many things that take up time. Made the fuel pump block off and turned it into my water temp sensor holder. Totally unplanned.

 

D98F4DDF-A3BD-4B3D-AC2C-0F3549BCC46A.jpg

 

52ED1387-FD69-4E63-985E-3DEEDEB3D569.jpg

 

Made a small bracket to hold fuel pressure gauge. Need to extend the leg on the left.

 

24FCBD87-9F13-4EC1-8B3F-79D289015710.jpg

 

Most of the wiring is done. At least hooked up. Haven't tested yet. Still have to wire up fuel pump relay, disable link, and main battery wire to starter. I've been soldering all wires and it has been time consuming.

 

488172CC-E00B-4D16-9B7E-4524208BAF6F.jpg

2D0B8FA1-6BA7-4F73-9843-E07A8E7B9115.jpg

95D60CA6-7950-4493-9409-D87991C64B2C.jpg

BFC290B4-F4E2-457D-B3A9-3DBE87BF91C6.jpg

 

So there are 4 wires hanging down by the pedals. I'm pretty sure they are both hazard and turn flashers. But one set has spade connectors. Anyone have an idea why that would be. Because of this not 100% sure they are what I think they are.

Those dont go to your brake light switch?

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"So there are 4 wires hanging down by the pedals. I'm pretty sure they are both hazard and turn flashers. But one set has spade connectors. Anyone have an idea why that would be. Because of this not 100% sure they are what I think they are."

 

521 trucks had a system of switches on the throttle pedal, transmission, the clutch pedal, and carbutettor that activated a relay that connected a second set of points that retarded the timing 10 degrees in third gear.

 

Stop light switch wires are two wires, both green, with a yellow stripe.  One should be always hot, unless the battery is disconnected.  other wire goes to brake lights.

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"So there are 4 wires hanging down by the pedals. I'm pretty sure they are both hazard and turn flashers. But one set has spade connectors. Anyone have an idea why that would be. Because of this not 100% sure they are what I think they are."

 

521 trucks had a system of switches on the throttle pedal, transmission, the clutch pedal, and carbutettor that activated a relay that connected a second set of points that retarded the timing 10 degrees in third gear.

 

Stop light switch wires are two wires, both green, with a yellow stripe. One should be always hot, unless the battery is disconnected. other wire goes to brake lights.

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The plans changed a little for this truck. I'm going to drive this one till at least when the 69 is done. Our car situation has changed. My Land Rover is not worth fixing and I've decided it is done. So right now we are down to one driving vehicle a 2007 Honda Odyssey. Since she is gone for 2 weeks it is not a problem. So I have to finish this truck before she gets back.

 

Oh and I broke the news to her about my Datsun's while dropping her off to the Airport. It sure was priceless her reaction. But this way she will be less pissed when she gets back. It's all about strategy.

 

Yes the starter will get painted, but most likely just buy a new one. I just didn't want to spend the time cleaning it so it never got done. And now buying a new one seems a lot more attractive to me.

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You do not need all the wires, in a USA stock 521.  If you have changed the distributor, or the transmission, or the carburettor, you are missing pieces to make the system of switches and relay for retarding the ignition timing for emission purposes inoperable.  Rare is the 521 that has the stock dual point distributor, carb, and transmission. 

 

I do have the wiring diagram for all the emission switches, in a paper manual.  But the print is small, and i pretty much have to go throught it with a magnifying glass to read it.

 

The colored wiring diagram I posted on the previous page is pretty accurate, compared to my 521 trucks. 

 

If you still have specific questions, about 521 electrical, I will try, and probably can help.

 

On my 521, that I am daily driving, Ratsun, there are wires hooked up to the clutch pedal switch.  But with a matchbox distributor, there is no set of points retarded to activate.  There was a relay above the ignition coil, on the inner fender. that I also removed, because it was doing nothing.

 

FYI, the project thread on Ratsun.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521/

I put a table of contents on each page so you do not have to scroll through the entire page to find what I did.  There are pretty much electrical fixes, improvements, and work scattered in most of the 19 pages.

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Thanks for the electrical help. My problem has been the color of wires. On the bottom of the fuse block I have 3 blk/ wht and the top 3 blues 1 green. 2 of the blues have red heat shrink tubing to identify it is not just blue and found the other end with same red tube on blue wire. Confusing part is it appears to be from factory this way. Also missing 2 whites joined with ring terminal, and a few other odd things. The wiring I pulled out of the 70 matches the diagram u provided. This harness is out of the 69.

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Accel cable, mod

 

Stock cable cut one end off and kept the ball end and kept the nut scrap the shield.

 

874282C1-030E-4675-BC6D-A1A478422EF8.jpg

 

Bought motorcycle cable and cut to length.

ACBFD5EA-6F33-4DCD-B093-F51423CA1346.jpg

 

Machine new end that nut secures cable to firewall

17B41D0C-656B-49DD-AF4E-9CEA04D97F14.jpg

 

Assembled and crimped machine part on

 

AA117077-083F-4C49-AC94-F732E39B080F.jpg

 

Installed

034ED0AA-54BD-485C-85A6-F3DB9CB3A0F7.jpg

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Fixed fuel gauge cluster fuckand now have 100% fuel line installed.

 

EF177193-2C46-4042-B372-33637CA2D6D4.jpg

 

Tested electrical. Most everything works that I can test now, except headlight. Going to try to start tomorrow night.

 

One question though. I made a ground wire for the dizzy and put it on the bolt that holds the pedestal to the block. But I can't find the ground spade on the dizzy. Did some matchboxes not have one?

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I believe all matchbox distributors had a ground lug, but there is a possibility somebody along the way removed it.

 

I can take a picture of the fusebox in Ratsun.  it is PL521 263599, build date 01/70.   It is close to stock around the fuse box.  I also own PL521 207797, it's build date is 09/69.  The older 521 is a "reflector" 521, it did not have side marker lights.   Ratsun is a "California" truck, it has the separator evaporative emission tank in the bed.   I do not think the electrical system on the truck is different although.

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I edited this post, to correct a problem I found when I switched back to an external regulated alternator in my 521.

 

I have noticed at least two different 521 fuse boxes.  The difference I know about in two of them is this.

The fuse box more common to me is three fuses hot with the key off.  The other variation I have found is four hot fuses with the key off.

 

From the outside, going toward the center of the truck.  (USA models) Wires on the back side of fuse box.

10 amp fuse    Two wires, Lt Green, Green

10 amp fuse    One wire, Blue with a white stripe

10 amp fuse    One wire, Blue with a red stripe

20 amp fuse    One wire, Lt Green with a red stripe

30 amp fuse    One wire, red.  this is a thick wire

20 amp fuse    Two wires Green with a yellow stripe, Green with a blue stripe

 

From the outside, going toward the center of the truck.  Wires on the front of the fuse box.

First fuse, no connection.

Second fuse, black wire, with a white stripe.and white with a blue stripe

Third fuse, black wire, with a white stripe.

Fourth fuse, no connection.

Fifth fuse, thick white wire, from battery

Sixth fuse, one wire, white.

 

Fuse use, or function

First fuse, turn signals, reverse lights, combo meter power.

Second fuse, heater

Third fuse, windshield wipers, windshield washer

Fourth fuse, radio, room light, four way flasher

Fifth fuse, lights

Sixth fuse, horn, stop lights.

 

Finally, the picture.

RatFuseBox2_zpscd80246b.jpg

This is an incorrect picture.  The top wire, farthest right was moved to the terminal farthest left.  The wire is white, with a blue stripe.  It takes switched ignition power, and sends it to the voltage regulator on externally regulated alternator trucks.   The right two terminals on the bottom are always hot.  The left two terminals are ignition switched hot.

 

I had to get new screws for the connections on the bottom of this picture, and the screws were longer than stock.  I put them in up from the bottom, and then put nuts on the screws, after putting the wire lugs on the fuse box.   There is an extra non stock wire in this picture.  It is an orange wire, with red heat shrink tubing. this wire goes to a second headlight relay, and takes power directly to the stock 521 headlight relay.  This was done to remove headlight current out of the stock 521 fuse box, and the headlight switch.  Power from the headlight switch now triggers the second relay, and that relay routes power to the stock relay.

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A suggestion, the red wire, with the lazy crimp connection, it would not hurt to make it bigger.   The entire electrical  on a 521, except for the starter goes through this wire.

I made this battery cable for my 521.

BatteryEnd.jpg

 

Here is a closer picture of the fuse box end.

NewRelayB.jpg

The red battery to starter cable, is a 2/0.   The white wire going to the fuse box is an eight gauge, possibly a six.

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I have noticed at least two different 521 fuse boxes.  The difference I know about in two of them is this.

The fuse box more common to me is three fuses hot with the key off.  The other variation I have found is four hot fuses with the key off.

 

From the outside, going toward the center of the truck.  (USA models) Wires on the back side of fuse box.

10 amp fuse    Two wires, Lt Green, Green

10 amp fuse    One wire, Blue with a white stripe

10 amp fuse    One wire, Blue with a red stripe

20 amp fuse    One wire, Lt Green with a red stripe

30 amp fuse    One wire, red.  this is a thick wire

20 amp fuse    Two wires Green with a yellow stripe, Green with a blue stripe

 

From the outside, going toward the center of the truck.  Wires on the front of the fuse box.

First fuse, no connection.

Second fuse, black wire, with a white stripe.

Third fuse, black wire, with a white stripe.

Fourth fuse, no connection.

Fifth fuse, thick white wire, from battery

Sixth fuse, two wires, white, and white with a blue stripe

 

Fuse use, or function

First fuse, turn signals, reverse lights, combo meter power.

Second fuse, heater

Third fuse, windshield wipers, windshield washer

Fourth fuse, radio, room light, four way flasher

Fifth fuse, lights

Sixth fuse, horn, stop lights.

 

Finally, the picture.

RatFuseBox2_zpscd80246b.jpg

 

I had to get new screws for the connections on the bottom of this picture, and the screws were longer than stock.  I put them in up from the bottom, and then put nuts on the screws, after putting the wire lugs on the fuse box.   There is an extra non stock wire in this picture.  It is an orange wire, with red heat shrink tubing. this wire goes to a second headlight relay, and takes power directly to the stock 521 headlight relay.  This was done to remove headlight current out of the stock 521 fuse box, and the headlight switch.  Power from the headlight switch now triggers the second relay, and that relay routes power to the stock relay.

Wow! What a reply. Thanks!

That's a lot of info every 521 owner should know.

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Learned 3 things tonight. First Champion Radiators do suck. Leaks at the drain as if it is open.

 

2.) fuel leak at electric pump or gas tank. Figure out later.

 

3) it will run. Lots of work to make it run good but first try and started. Timing probably way off because I did nothing. Holds idle at something like 200 I guess. Ridiculously low. Never knew anything could idle this low. Had to push outside and start due to fuel leak so video sucks but at least u can hear it. And the engine is 2x louder then the exhaust.

 

So had to put on YouTube because I didn't know how else to do it. So my first attempt to post video, hopefully it works.

 

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