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71 521 something


earlyvws

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The ones in the pics. They are 2000 Toyota 4runner.

 

Spent all day running around trying to get stuff. The damn Trooper brake hoses are killing me. No one has them. Got some coming tomorrow.

 

The 4" blocks did not work. They made the bottom bracket hit the rim. So spent the rest if my time cutting off the old leaf spring perches and made new ones in the frame rail. Get pics tomorrow. And hopefully the damn stance worked out finally. I don't know how to get any lower then this without some serious cutting and welding. Crossing fingers this will finally close the gap over the rear tire and get rid if the rake.

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It looks like you are using about 3 inch blocks, they might be 4 inch blocks, but they look like 3 inch to me, but maybe it is the rims that are making it look like the blocks are 3 inch. 

The 521 leafs just hold there bow, they are meant for hauling weight, so the back end just stays in the air, find some 720 4X4 leafs, it will look better.

That was a great idea to put a new cross member in and then using the old cross member frame holes to mount your upper shackles, that will be copied by a lot of members on here when they see it, big thumbs up on that.  :thumbup:

I am not saying the stance looks bad, it's the rockers not being continued past the cab, it makes are trucks look unfinished, it makes the back end look higher than it really is.

This is what I think the 521 box should look like, but it was not to be, I am talking about box design, not the stance.

521pictures.jpg

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Shocks are still stock location. Just none installed right now. Yes it is 3" blocks.

 

My addiction is cars. I know this truck is getting more then needs be, but it is something I can't just leave alone. But I keep learning things each time. After a couple more I will be ready to build the ultimate worlds greatest most desire able 521. I just have a lot of catching up to do. Every time I learn something new, it turns out to be something everybody already knows.

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Wayno, what am I missing. How are the tires under the wheel well on that truck.

I have no idea what rims/offset/tires the truck has, it was just a photo that Mr Hurley posted of his truck, and I thought it was a great photo, Mr Hurley was talking about how the body lines did not match, and I thought he was talking about the rockers, so I went with it and doctored the photo, but it turned out that he was talking about how the cab was sagging, and the box was not, if you look close at the door handle area, you can see how the box line is higher.

I went a lot farther doctoring this photo, I made a kingcab 520 that looks something like the photo below, I just have not finished the project yet. 

521pictures013.jpg

This truck is setting on the bump stops as I recall, but it looks good, it likely rides like crap, but it looks good.

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Ok here are some of my dumb questions. I thought I could of figured these ones out. I searched and searched and just can't find the answers.

 

First, accel cable. I'm trying to see how the stock one fits so I can make a new one. But I don't get how this one works. I swear I took it out but I didn't take any pics and I couldn't find any here.

D6AC17F8-EA94-4B6A-B6DB-364E2D4F7BE9.jpg

AA1B7B06-B30F-42CA-9694-29E83ABE73D1.jpg

 

Second, Matchbox.

Maybe I'm overthinking this one. I read all the threads I could find about this dizzy. But the info that is missing is so basic and simple everyone is glossing over this. My question is, is there a specific spot on the dizzy that is #1. On VW dizzy there is a notch the rotor needs to line up to to be number 1. I put the dizzy in and the matchbox is on the radiator side and the timing plate is also there and the rotor is pointing to a post on the cap. Is this ok position? And just make that one #1?

DA8ABA65-EA5C-4F12-A32F-95BF7585BBDF.jpg

 

Also the black truck had a MSD coil. Can this be used without the ballast risitor? What does this ballast do? I don't have one and checked every vehicle I could think of the last time I was at pick and pull.

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"i was told the ballast resistor lowers voltage so the points dont get burnt up but i thought voltage isnt what burns shit up its amperage"

 

That is correct, it is amperage that burns points.  

Look at it this way.  You have to have a coil.  If you hook up a non ballast resistor coil, you do not need a ballast resistor.  The coil has a higher internal resistance to limit the current flow through the points.  If you have a "use external ballast resistor" coil, it has a lower resistance.  Without a ballast resistor, it will burn points.  it will also flow more current than a ballast resistor coil.

 

Datsun used a ballast resistor coil so the ballast resistor could be bypassed, when cranking.  This was done to make the engine easier to start.  Bypassing the ballast resistor is harder on the points, but starting the engine is (usually) a temporary condition.  Also, tha battery voltage is dragged down by the starter load.

 

You can use a ballast resistor coil with a match box distributor.  You also have to keep the ballast resistor.  But it is not ideal.  you should use the electronic ignition coil with a matchbox distributor.

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The matchbox dizzy #1 plug on the cap is at about 4pm looking at the engine from the drivers side, so it looks right in your photo, that is #1 plug position.

You should use a EI coil without a ballast resister, I don't know shit about any of the other coils.

You found the correct throttle cable, that is good.

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The matchbox dizzy #1 plug on the cap is at about 4pm looking at the engine from the drivers side, so it looks right in your photo, that is #1 plug position.

You should use a EI coil without a ballast resister, I don't know shit about any of the other coils.

You found the correct throttle cable, that is good.

Thanks wayno,What was i thinking at 1000 now i will have to think about this, and very good that is the right throttle cable.

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Been working on all the un-exiciting part of getting this truck ready to drive. I guess I could post pics of the following:

 

1. screwing brake lines together

2. figuring out the stupid brake lines cuz for some reason the japanese have decided M10x1.0 male and 3/8x24 female are good rubber hoses to make.

3. using lacquer thinner to clean all the wires, cuz somebody thought black spray paint was good protection. They managed to cover all the wires completely where I couldn't even see og color. Great job.

4. retaping wire harness

5. soldering all butt connectors previous hot shot used to fix wire harness

6. figuring out stupid harness cuz some of the wire colors dont match wire diagram?

7. ordering all the missing pieces and locating time consuming parts, such as seals, weird size bolts etc

8. trying to figure out my center pull linkage. It is not fitting (going to see Troy Emerish tomorrow) hopefully he can figure it out.

9. Installing electric fuel pump

10. Cleaning gas tank

11. putting all new rubber lines/ filler neck to gas tank

12. routing fuel line to carbs

13. Getting drive line made and installed

14. lots of other things I forgot because it is all so mind numbing.

 

BUT I hope to have the engine running sometime this weekend. SOOOOOO maybe there will be video so we can all hear what this hayabusa exhaust sounds like.

 

BUT my wife is leaving for 14 days to Australia for work and it is going to be hard to get a lot done while she is gone since I will have to have the kids by myself.

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