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5t341tH

78 Sr20det 620 Salvage title to boosted!

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Thanks for the tips guys.

So I did some mickey mouse repairs. I put some jb weld into that missing chunk and then I tapped the hole. Used a threaded rod instead of a bolt to secure the water pump.

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hopefully it holds. I am going to test it today.

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well it looked all good but still leaked from that bolt hole...

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going to add more silicon into that bolt hole. does water come out from inside the hole? like into the passages or is it from the cavity

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By the looks of it you don't really have a flat surface for the gasket to sit on between the bolt and the water passageway so the water is probably coming from that. Redo the patch and kinda lump it over so you can carefully sand it down to level. Give that a try and see if it works?

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Also, I think that there should be no liquid in the bolt hole at all, just running through the big waterway area for the pump

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thanks for the input guys. I finally got it to not leak! just used a gob of silicone on that particular hole before sealing it.

Since I had everything apart, I decided to upgrade the alternator. Grabbed an 02 Saturn alternator and modified it to fit. I also grabbed a 92 saturn alternator as well since that was what everyone used, but the 02 one fit much better. No water inlet clearance issues. I used a 720 v belt pulley sans external "fan"

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It just needed the lower alternator mount grounded down a bit and a turnbuckle for adjustment. I'm not sure how others have used just a turnbuckle successfully but I needed an additional bracket. I used the stock bracket and cut it down to size. The belt needed for my alt was 7445.

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new alt and new radiator is so nice B)

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and here it is all together

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So far so good. Lights are definitely brighter now with the new alternator. Engine on, I get 13.8V. Not much difference compared to the stock alternator I had (13.3V) but anything helps. I haven't driven too far yet, but it seems the new radiator cools much better than the cruddy old one

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Hey I found a local that was selling this. Got it for pretty cheap. What do my ratsun brothers think about it?

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Damn it’s been quite a while since I’ve updated this. Many things have changed and I am currently swapping a sr20det into it. Pics to follow!

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need to upload pics from my phone. Will get to it asap!

 

old l20 engine out

WTJuksG7V8LO15JiVHINbocGGkotyGagjqZVxHMx

 

8Zvz-Mm-FT1VvX5qcL63k1nwbXVcYQQyW_YIfqox

 

O3IvNZWrcUSCLnf8XadhIykJhZs12dDyaxRvB8IE

 

engine bay painted with rustoleum hammered

boES224-REkHwjRdZRBod7DzDsf2HpEU-5PEzbuw

 

sr20 test fitted in place to see clearance

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engine fits with plenty of firewall clearance (or so I thought)

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L79FUVvGdcDzOeB5QR97V8BrpYTqayJDwy0wTjug

 

bought a new exhaust manifold for clearance of the steering

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easy to say there needs to be modifications

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for some reason, engine mounts come in two different thicknesses

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transmission mount needs to be lengthened since it is off by 1.5"

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exhaust off the back of the turbo will need to be customized as it hits the brake hardline (as well as other things)

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but engine is bolted in and I am happy

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I did the centerlink flip with the TJ inserts. it was a damn pain to drill through those two arms. But I still have clearance issues with the oil pan. This is with the steering straight ahead.

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the water neck inlet needs to be shortened

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as does the air intake pipe. It needs to be reclocked

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Edited by 5t341tH

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modified the crossmember to meet up with the 620 transmission mount

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boxed it up for strength.

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got the inlet pipe reclocked and the waterneck shortened

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used a 240sx radiator. test fitting

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good clearance for the shroud and fans

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had to relocate the coolant drain over because it was hitting the frame where the bumper mounts

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radiator stood up too high, so I had to shave away the bumper brackets and drill two holes for the pegs to slot into

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got it down to where I believe the hood will clear it

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got a one piece driveshaft made from the old one. cost only 210 bucks!

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radiator and intercooler final mounting situation

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got the new clutch in and ready to mate with the transmission one final time

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after engine and transmission is bolted together forever, the engine now hits the firewall

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I had to slot the engine mount brackets to allow enough movement to bolt everything down. But everything now is bolted together and I can start making a custom turbo elbow, wastegate actuator mount, intake coupler, AN fuel lines and intercooler piping

 

more to come! let me know if the pictures don't work

 

Edited by 5t341tH

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No worky

 

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WOW!

You got a lotta stuff done!!

 

Looking good!

.

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Clearance for the engine mount brackets. Needed to grind it away to clear the turbo

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Final resting spot for the radiator 

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i had to slot the holes on both the brackets so it could slide around more.

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ordered intercooler piping and will attempt making my own routing

 

Edited by 5t341tH

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Looks good in there. 

I am working up a trans cross member, but you seem to have it handled. 

 

So it fit and then didn't fit? How did you modify the motor mounts? That is the one pic I cannot see. 

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6 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said:

Looks good in there. 

I am working up a trans cross member, but you seem to have it handled. 

 

So it fit and then didn't fit? How did you modify the motor mounts? That is the one pic I cannot see. 

When I had the transmission bolted on but without the flywheel and clutch on, it fit without hitting the firewall. When I installed the flywheel and clutch and then bolted the transmission in, it would hit the firewall. I had to hammer the firewall a bit to dent in enough room to fit

 

how's the progress on your alternator mounts?

Edited by 5t341tH
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The flywheel and PP would have no effect on or off as far as how the engine trans fitted together.  Engine/trans must have been forward the first time and back too far the second time for some external reason. Weird.

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9 hours ago, 5t341tH said:

When I had the transmission bolted on but without the flywheel and clutch on, it fit without hitting the firewall. When I installed the flywheel and clutch and then bolted the transmission in, it would hit the firewall. I had to hammer the firewall a bit to dent in enough room to fit

 

how's the progress on your alternator mounts?

 

 

Slacking... 😞

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21 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The flywheel and PP would have no effect on or off as far as how the engine trans fitted together.  Engine/trans must have been forward the first time and back too far the second time for some external reason. Weird.

 

Likely something was bolted together tightly before the final position was set.

I know my motor sits a bit different after trying to pull the trans from underneath. That doesn't work with the KA/SR clutch BTW, easiest to pull everything. 

 

 

Edit: Just noticed, that shorter rubber motor mount is not the correct mount.  

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I went to the auto parts store and found hoses that fit perfectly

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shifter location vs stock. Looks like I need to cut it back a little bit and weld up the old spot

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Also started doing my intercooler setup. I am mocking up how I will route the piping. still waiting on some couplers to come in. 

compressor outlet is 2", compressor inlet is 2.5", intercooler is 2.25", intercooler piping is 2.5", and throttle body is 2.75"

so I had to use plenty of reducing couplers with this whole setup.

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still have to save some money so I can buy my wiring harness from "the wiring specialties." It is a plug and play harness with relays all built in with all new OEM connections. Fuel pump I am planning to use is from FiTech 40015. I purchased it but it is not in stock until next year. Nice thing about this fuel pump is it is in-tank and will be much quieter than an external pump. Also it looks super clean IMO

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Edited by 5t341tH
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I use the Tanks INC pumps. No, they don't look as nice as a cool billet aluminum piece, but they are much less expensive.

 

Isn't it nice to find hoses that fit? I hate having to splice hoses with couplers.

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15 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I use the Tanks INC pumps. No, they don't look as nice as a cool billet aluminum piece, but they are much less expensive.

 

Isn't it nice to find hoses that fit? I hate having to splice hoses with couplers.

I do love my hoses. So glad they let me in the back and pick through their selection. I checked out tanks inc on their fuel pumps. The price is not much different than the one I bought. Mine was $220

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