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5t341tH

78 Sr20det 620 Salvage title to boosted!

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Hey guys. I purchased my 1978 620 about a month ago. I was excited to get one after months of searching on Craigslist. It seems this area has little to pick from. I found this one and I picked it up. I got it for $1000 but unknowing to me, it was salvage from the last guy. So I have to go through all the troubles of inspections and fees to get it back on the road. Total fees I had to pay- $566 bucks!!! There are issues that I have to take care of. Plus I have to basically put the truck back in TIPTOP shape before I can pass the "brake and lamp" inspection.

 

 

sellers pictures

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day I brought it home

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cleaned it up and took out the piss poor bench seats. Swapped in a 720 bench seat and replaced the door seal. Added 3" blocks and cranked the torsion bars down a bit

 

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found some wheels for it. don't know the brand but I do have to buy different style lug nuts to fit it.

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I've also replace all the front end components. Changed the center link, tie rods, idler arms, strut rod bushings and upper ball joints. Only problem is, it still drives wack! Steering wheel is not straight.

It also has the strangest feeling when driving. If I accelerate, it pulls right. Once I let go of the gas pedal, it pulls left. It's a constant thing too so pretty hard to drive without having to make constant steering adjustments.

Edited by 5t341tH
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Took it to have a "brake and lamp" inspection today and failed with flying colors.

-LR, RR brake hardware missing

-rear wheel cylinders leaking

-brake lamp dash indicator not functional

-hazard switch broken

-LR marker light broken

-front turn signals broken

-rear brake lamps broken

B)

 

Also failed smog due to "tampered" emissions stuff. looks like missing PCV, vacuum lines, EGR, gas cap

 

I didn't know the inspection was so thorough. I thought it just needed to brake sufficiently and have all lights in working order.

I've ordered the wheel cylinders, hardware kit and fixed the hazard switch. The marker lights work but the lenses are broken. If any of you guys have any of these laying around. LET ME KNOW!

 

I have a want to buy list if you guys can help me out on:

-Datsun grill badge and side emblems

-sunvisor, and mounting bracket

-rearview mirror

-rear sidemarker lights

-rear tail lights

-front turn signal lights

-door lock clips (piece that holds the door lock in place)

-retractable seat belts

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Not to be a dick, but why wouldnt you make sure they were working correctly BEFORE you went for the inspection?

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Well I've never done this type of inspection before. I didn't know how involved it was with all the technical details. Broken marker lens would be considered fail? What did catch me off guard was the LR drum brake. The hardware was missing.....

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Preinspection before any remote thought of exchanging money is not only smart, it is REQUIRED unless you are willing to put up with this sort of crap.  The positive, you have learned a sore lesson.  The negative, you have been had! 

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Guest Rick-rat

I have 1 complete rear side marker, 1 rear side marker red lens, 2 amber lenses for the front, and 1 front turn signal lens

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Hey mate, you can buy the locks, rear view mirror, indicators,rear tail lights, all after-market brand new on eBay, and there not too badly priced

I have recently purchased some new after-market parts for my 620 the quality isn't all that bad either.

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Welcome, looks like you have a solid truck, just needs a bit of TLC. :cool:

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All these items that are not working or missing could have been used to drive the price down. Best to get the factory service manual for this year and save some money. Was it towed to the inspection?

 

 

Not all areas have a smog test but all must pass a visual exam at the least.  

 

Will those rims work on a lowered truck?????? I wouldn't worry about rims right now as that's like polishing the brass on the titannic. Start fixing things first and get it on the road. 

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I have 1 complete rear side marker, 1 rear side marker red lens, 2 amber lenses for the front, and 1 front turn signal lens

PM'd

 

Hey mate, you can buy the locks, rear view mirror, indicators,rear tail lights, all after-market brand new on eBay, and there not too badly priced

 

I have recently purchased some new after-market parts for my 620 the quality isn't all that bad either.

I rather not wait for shipping from Thailand. I did purchase a few things but I'd like these sooner

 

Welcome, looks like you have a solid truck, just needs a bit of TLC. :cool:

Thanks very much

 

All these items that are not working or missing could have been used to drive the price down. Best to get the factory service manual for this year and save some money. Was it towed to the inspection?

 

 

Not all areas have a smog test but all must pass a visual exam at the least.  

 

Will those rims work on a lowered truck?????? I wouldn't worry about rims right now as that's like polishing the brass on the titannic. Start fixing things first and get it on the road. 

Yea yea.... I should have haggled more. He was asking 1500

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Solid beginnings, you gone have some fun when you get her back on the road and tip top

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Do any of you have an idea what can be causing my weird pulling issue? Accelerating pulls the truck to the right. Letting go of the gas pulls it left. This is a constant and repeatable problem

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Left (maybe right) rear spring U bolts loose or spring broken or loose. Improperly mounted lowering block.

 

Front end was lowered but not aligned afterwards. Front tires are now toed in.

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Left (maybe right) rear spring U bolts loose or spring broken or loose. Improperly mounted lowering block.

 

Front end was lowered but not aligned afterwards. Front tires are now toed in.

Hmm I suspect the U-bolt is the problem then. I did add lowering blocks to the rear and I did notice the U-bolts don't hang straight down on the RR side. I will readjust and test. I did measure my front toe after changing everything, so I hope that isn't the issue. Thanks!

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Thanks to Rick-rat for some much needed parts. Now I can get closer to passing my inspection.

Also thanks to datzenmike for the tip on fixing my pulling issue. I readjusted the RR lowering block and it has stopped pulling now!

 

Load of parts came in from rockauto. Should be replacing the wheel cylinders and brake hardware as well as rear shoes.

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Does anyone want a pair of outer window squeegees? I bought the wrong kind. These are for the trucks with the vented side windows.

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Too bad you don't live on the west coast where there are the most Datsuns to pick from.

 

Still $1600 is a good price. Congrats.

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Just adjusted my valve clearances today.

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They were incredibly tight! No wonder it was so noisy.

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Also installed new wheel cylinders for the drums and new shoes. I ordered two of the drum hardware and shoes, but didn't realize they came as both sides. Rockauto ordering wasn't clear either.

Anyway I have extra parts if anyone needs:

Rear brake shoes

rear brake drum hardware

outer window squeegees for vented windows

front sway bar endlinks+bushings

 

 

Also took apart my washer spray motor and it does spin with 12v applied. Can't figure out why it won't spray washer fluid with the switch. Anyone have any tips on that part?

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is there a way to test the switch? maybe tbe contacts are worn or dirty..?

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Actually I got it working today. I took the washer motor apart and it was corroded inside. I spun the fan blade and that loosened up the rust and now it works wonderfully. Now what I need is a pair of washer nozzles. I accidentally pulled too hard when removing the water hoses and they broke off.........

 

Anyway, I installed my new wood steering wheel and also wink mirror. With this thing, I can see everything behind now!

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Also painted my valve cover wrinkle black after doing the valve lash. It came out okay. I could have been more patient with it to get more wrinkles.

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Need some help from you fellow ratsuners.

I can't seem to get my high beams working. When I first got the truck, it would work intermittently. Now it won't work at all. I tested for voltage at the highbeam plug and I'm only getting 0.4V. I have taken apart the turn signal assembly and cleaned it out along with the contacts. With some searching, I found out the 78s don't have a headlight relay. So what can be causing my issue? Please help.

 

obligatory oic

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OK, low voltage at the headlight plug.

 

Now test the ground at the headlight plug. Between ground pin and bat NEG post how many ohms?

 

Between high beam pin and bat NEG post how many volts?

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1978-1979 is much easier to troubleshoot since there is no complicated and prone-to-fail relay.

 

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ok just took some measurements.

between the highbeam plug = .05V

between highbeam + and batt- = .09V

 

this is crazy though.

190 ohms at the passenger side plug

180 ohms at driverside

should it be that high?

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Alright, so I took apart the turn signal switch again and cleaned out the copper some more. It seemed to fix the highbeam issue. Only thing is when activating the stalk for high beam, I have to be gentle.

Everything is working great. I received a 32/36 webber from Kirden and will install it once I pass smog check.

OICS!

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Your truck coming along good. What size lowering blocks did you install?

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