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where can i get a condensor and ballast resistor


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6 hours ago, ToastyBass said:

Hi, I know it's been a few years since anyone's replied, but I have a '75 B210 California, so it also uses a magnetic pickup and EI system/transistor ignition unit, but isn't EFI. While I crank, I get no spark. The culprit's either the BR wire from ignition switch too my 4-prong ballast resistor, or the resistor itself. I'm trying to find a new resistor JIC but I'm having no luck. Anyone have a possible wiring diagram I can use to install a traditional 2-prong resistor? Thanks a million.

 

Here is the generic diagram for that system from Nissan. Alternatively, you can use the magnetic pickup and convert to a later model transistor ignition unit (GM/Chevy type) as the wiring is very simple and do away completely for the need for the resistor.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Electronic_Ignition

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=B-210_Electronic_Distributor_Swap

 

Image-(38).jpg

 

Me personally, I'd probably just get one of those Ebay replacement distributors where everything is built in and ditch the resistor all together. They are Chinese built but seem pretty good and many of the stock distributors at this point are worn out with play in the shafts or the advance setup not working correctly anyways. They are like $70, this one is shipping from the USA. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163412491566?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D241967%26meid%3D2017afbe83f2439291d2907c79b80adb%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D274827027399%26itm%3D163412491566%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedKnnRecallV1%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A1634124915662017afbe83f2439291d2907c79b80adb|enc%3AAQAHAAABIMFr2e4EmAnM%2ByHZkULYKDIJ4L66fOjNL0iupgt%2BzO1%2F3AE1t3mNirUYB96NktMCicMagiS6mbeTl0xquGODv9mBxElcRnTNeuW3LU590v3eM5BysqRkTdFsV4A4rsigd1ljfohA1W%2FARAwW8z4bQvnkhQROdrSL%2FT9ZIa9kZuTEHU0VHOKUIl%2BBowjrLpmp7PVw7hJTBirP%2Bq5fHNIZUYNWcQk1PZQXha%2F75P9o43chs6jFVO%2Bi49YOq2I3xIig0Kt5mEsgx8VhR%2BdTr2%2FscHfw84UuRs1YkhbFvRQXI8%2FkZENN5s2fjzIGeooFfV%2B7A2i7lx5Efluo4Xt3%2BYwRF%2F0JckJdLOXOD79BbDSkeLgffWyTAldmiXFBU2zXucdaSg%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675


 

 

Image-(37).jpgImage-(39).jpgImage-(40).jpg

Edited by Dguy210
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Dguy, thanks kindly! I've since found that some numb-nut previously wired the resistor wrong, like I thought, but I wouldn't mind removing that resistor altogether with that AIO distributor unit you linked! So, to clarify, can I use my original transistor unit, and where would I be fastening those two leads it has? Not sure if it would go to my transistor unit or the coil.. Thanks a bunch in advance!

 

Update: If I'm reading the diagram right, they just go to the pick-up leads on my transistor, correct?

And I can just constantly give my coil (replaced when I got the car) 12V instead?

Edited by ToastyBass
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8 hours ago, ToastyBass said:

Dguy, thanks kindly! I've since found that some numb-nut previously wired the resistor wrong, like I thought, but I wouldn't mind removing that resistor altogether with that AIO distributor unit you linked! So, to clarify, can I use my original transistor unit, and where would I be fastening those two leads it has? Not sure if it would go to my transistor unit or the coil.. Thanks a bunch in advance!

 

Update: If I'm reading the diagram right, they just go to the pick-up leads on my transistor, correct?

And I can just constantly give my coil (replaced when I got the car) 12V instead?

 

 

This thread actually started a very interesting DM thread which caused me to dig into my books about what actually has a resistor and what doesn't. The answer in short seems to be it varies.

 

I also found a 1975 B210 wiring diagram while doing so to.

 

The 1975 model absolutely does [have a resistor] I went back and dug out the service bulletin change for 1975 B210 which has the wiring diagram it definitely shows it there (As does 1976). The 1978 version definitely does NOT have the resistor, unless it is the Canada model. It appears there may also be a variation in Non-California models for certain years which I haven't cleared up. Weird thing is as far as I can tell it looks like both years may use the exact same electrical transistor unit! But I haven't confirmed this yet. 

 

Edit: Seems that Ratsun compresses this image, on the one I upload it is very clear, when you go to download it looks not so good. So here is a link to it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H3k2JXjtbf-LjAy8QRF_hN7OveeubbZR/view?usp=sharing

 

 

1975 B210 diagram wiring.jpg

Edited by Dguy210
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Thanks kindly for your research! Trust me, I've studied that diagram idk HOW many times XD! My car came with a service manual, and it's saved my bacon more times than I can count. I've even copied the diagram and used a highlighter to figure out what I'm going to keep when I do my KA24DE swap.

 

As far as wiring a resistor, I was mainly talking about the upgrade distributor you previously linked, which I purchased. My curiosity lies in if I'll actually need a resistor with this new unit, or if it's a built-in component. Based on the Datsun1200 guide, it looks like they just jump it, which the current will obviously use over the resistor bc it's a path of least resistance. You think I'd be fine deleting the resistor altogether, then? Just send both the 'on' and 'start' signals straight to the coil?

 

Edit: It appears that way, but Datsun1200 seems unsure if the '75 transistor unit can take 12V directly. Guess the only way to know is to try, and I've already found a 280Z one for $50 on eBay JIC. If you have any more leads or suggestions, I'm all ears

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Points coils and the points themselves are limited to 3 ohms total resistance or too much current flows, shortening the points life and over heating the coil. Generally the coil and the ballast are 1.5 each for a total of 3 ohms. The ballast is used when running but a starter signal goes around the ballast directly to the coil for a hotter spark when starting. When the key returns to the on position once started, the power flows through the ballast again.

 

Using a 3 ohm coil and removing the ballast eliminates the hotter starting spark. No sense to that. Using the 1.5 ohm points coil without the ballast wears the points out faster and overheats the coil.

 

EI coils are built to handle the full 12v so they don't need a ballast.  They are between 3/4 and 1 ohm resistance so draw about 3 times the current producing a much more powerful spark.

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a point ignition uses a point coil which is a higher resistance and a ballast to add to that so the points dont burn up. These Pertronix and Hotspark conversions are just that Conversion DESIGHED to use the stock components(point coil and ballast.Its usually in the fine print. Like Mallory UNILITES back in the day. Use resisitor and stock coil.

  These early cars with POINTS will have a BYpass wire for starting. usualyl there will be 2 wires that go to the +side coil. or sometimes at the lower side of the ballast resistor.

I know Pertronx sell a 3 ohm coil but it not needed.  If anything the STOCK coil and ballast should be ezer to start wgen cold as your not going thru a 3ohm resistor but a 1.5 ohm during START when your car is loading down the battery to get a good spark.

 

in 78 the remote box in the car showed up and later79  the matchbox. dont need a resisitor as they are made to run that way using a .7ohm coil that is designed to take the full 14volts and take the increased current.

 

this is my 510 set up with Pertronix

pertronixstockcoilsetup.JPG

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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I understand the ballast resistor has a purpose for points, but what I'm saying is I have a California model. Magnetic pick-up. No points. I'm asking Dguy (and anyone else with input) if the '75 CA model's transistor ignition unit (TIU) can handle all 12V going to the coil directly, eliminating the resistor. Like we've discussed, it has a bizarre 2-stage resistor (new ones seem impossible to find) and I'm curious if getting the replacement distributor Dguy linked can allow me to eliminate such a rare component without any other major modifications (like a replacement TIU).

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If it comes with a resistor then it need a resistor. Running without will draw more current through the coil and it will heat up. Might fry the transistor unit.

 

You could try a later EI coil that is lower resistance and does not use a ballast resistor. It will easily handle 12v and won't heat up but I have no idea if the transistor unit can handle it the extra current. It might pop. I'm guessing this unit simply uses points coil and ballast but eliminates only the points.

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6 hours ago, ToastyBass said:

I understand the ballast resistor has a purpose for points, but what I'm saying is I have a California model. Magnetic pick-up. No points. I'm asking Dguy (and anyone else with input) if the '75 CA model's transistor ignition unit (TIU) can handle all 12V going to the coil directly, eliminating the resistor. Like we've discussed, it has a bizarre 2-stage resistor (new ones seem impossible to find) and I'm curious if getting the replacement distributor Dguy linked can allow me to eliminate such a rare component without any other major modifications (like a replacement TIU).

 

 

Your stock transistor unit for the 1975 unit needs the resistor.

 

Whether the unit you have needs the resistor or can handle the straight 12 volts is unsure. 

 

They show it as a replacement for both resistor (75-76 maybe 77) and non-resistor vehicles (78-later). 

 

Ideally it should have instructions saying whether it needs it or not but it may depend on the SPECIFIC distributor you have. As Banzai510 shows some brands (Hotspark) absolutely require a resistor and say so in the instructions.  Whether YOUR specific one does or not is unsure. It seems to be safe it should WORK running through the resistor. However, if it can run full 12v seems unknown or whether it can do it and last really. Seems from reviews some people are using it without the resistor but doesn't mean it might not burn up later.

 

So what should you do? You should be able to find a 2 pole resistor matching what is needed for this unit that is "electrically" similar without finding the exact unit. This is the safe route. The unsafe route is just run it at full 12v and see if it lasts or not. OR see if you can find info on the specific unit you have or not. An RU13 2 pole resistor should run you about $8 from rockauto and work for this.

 

I will SPECULATE, seriously I'm GUESSING here that it likely runs at the full 12v but I COULD BE WRONG, as it is labelled as a direct replacement for non-resistor cars and would work just fine as a replacement for resistor cars too, but NOT the other way around. ONCE AGAIN I AM GUESSING HERE! The SAFE WAY is to use the RESISTOR. Caveat Emptor. 

Edited by Dguy210
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Thanks kindly, all! I don't mind being a guinea pig to answer this question. When I got my new coil, wires, and plugs, they're NGK parts that are identical to later (+'78) replacements. Same part numbers and everything. Me being a numb-nut myself, I didn't notice the NGK coil says "12V USE WITH ELECTRONIC IGNITION" on it. If Datsun1200 is unsure about using a resistor or not on a '75 model year, allow me to try and clear it up. New distributor (and timing chain/tensioner/sprockets) will go in the same time I pull the resistor out (hopefully next week). I'll hang on to the resistor if I fry the coil and report back with my findings!

 

Note: I'm doing all the gaskets and seals on my A14, so far I've cleaned the oil pan and timing cover surfaces, it may take a few more weeks for me to knock out other things like the head gasket, manifolds, etc. I'll be sure to report the status of my transistor unit once she's running again.

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Datzenmike, that's precisely why Dguy and I have been going back and forth on here XD

7 hours ago, datzenmike said:

If it's a later EI coil it's built to run on 12v you won't fry it. However the transistor unit is unknown if it can handle the increased current without damage.

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  • datzenmike changed the title to where can i get a condensor and ballast resistor

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