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where can i get a condensor and ballast resistor


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where can I find a ballast resistor and a condenser for a 1976 Datsun 280z I have looked on z-parts.com and red dragon any suggestions

 

the only resistor I am finding is labeled for a 240

please post any info I would really like o get this car up and running ASAP

 

 

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Isn't that a electronic distributor?  I didn't think the E dizzy had a ballast resistor. .. I was thinking it was a resistor wire in the system somewheres... But i'm stupid so that is almost complete speculation on my part.

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240Z uses a points distributor

 

280Z uses a remote ignitor distributor.

 

It doesn't use a condensor for spark generation. The one you see is for radio interference. 1975-1978 is a low-energy EI which uses a dual-ballast resistor

 

Low Energy EI resistor

24383.jpg

 

All parts stores can get this NAPA, oreilly, Autozone etc. Or Nissan.

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where can I get one locally I have asked hey all look at me like im dumb... do you have apart number or anything

 

also the condenser is like half the size of a aa battery and has a wire coming out of each end any suggestions

 

I cannot get the pics to upload.....

 

the cars injectors are not opening and the resistor is broke...

 

according to my book the condenser has something o do with the injectors on the 280z

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What are you asking for?

 

As far as I know a condensor is not required for the injectors. It is for RF interference, so you can listen to AM radio while the engine is running.

 

Resistor for the ignition is pictured above and is called "ballast resistor"

Resistor for the injectors is called "dropping resistor"

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* condenser

* dropping resistor

* ballast resistor

 

Only the ballast resistor is a tune-up part. The RF resistor some comes with a new coil.

 

do you have part numbers for say a napa one I have spoke to local parts stores and they say they don't make these

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You don't need a ballast resistor for the coil on your Z.  That's the long ceramic thing with stud posts out of it.  You can bypass it without harm.  No points, it's a magnetic pickup that goes to a separate ignition box probably somewhere in the right kick panel area in the cabin.  Anyway, the injector dropping resistor is quite important for that system to function.  Finding a new one may be quite a challenge.  I haven't seen them.  But, they also almost never go bad.

 

The little condenser looking item is a radio noise suppressor, it isn't important either.

 

How long has it been since the car has run?  The injectors could be frozen with rust, blocked with crap, etc.  Another possibility is the temperature sending unit for the ECU is disconnected.  If that is disconnected, the EFI will cease to work.  Fuel pump will still run though and dizzy will spark.  Check the connector as all the old Nissan connectors are brittle and shitty by this time.  I know I have a few broken ones on my Maxima.  Use some dielectric grease when hooking them back up.

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The 1976 transistor ignitor is designed to be used with a ballast resistor to prevent overheating.

 

Hitachi went to improved redesign for 1978 they upped the current handling capabilities. Since theses boxes are $$$$ I wouldn't risk it by running a 1976 transistor box at high current.

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  • 8 years later...

Hi, I know it's been a few years since anyone's replied, but I have a '75 B210 California, so it also uses a magnetic pickup and EI system/transistor ignition unit, but isn't EFI. While I crank, I get no spark. The culprit's either the BR wire from ignition switch too my 4-prong ballast resistor, or the resistor itself. I'm trying to find a new resistor JIC but I'm having no luck. Anyone have a possible wiring diagram I can use to install a traditional 2-prong resistor? Thanks a million.

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Prior to Nissan switching to the electronic Ignition for all Datsuns in '78, the California emissions cars and trucks also had a magnetic pick up as early as '75 or '76 but I don't know if this was also a high output but if it needs a ballast resistor I think not. Because the ballast lowers the voltage through the coil I think it best to replace it with the 4 terminal one to be safe.

 

One terminal is just a connection point for the remote electronics box under the dash and really has no connection to the ballast.

Another is a connection point to the condenser and again does not affect the ballast.

 

One is power and the other is the start signal but at all times there is some resistance between the start signal and the coil. If you substitute a two terminal ballast this resistance will disappear and the coil may over heat. 

 

 

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  • datzenmike changed the title to where can i get a condensor and ballast resistor

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