Cant get my truck to idle

[SickDrift]

As stated in the subject, I cant get my truck to idle. I know looking for internet diagnosis is a long shot, but you guys are all I have.

 

I can start it, and it starts just fine, but I have to constantly feather it to keep it going. At higher RPM it seems to climb well. I just replaced the spark plugs. They appear clean, a little browning at the element, not black, doesnt smell like gas. I also wanted to know if there was a base amount of turns for (what i assume to be the air/fuel mixture screw). Where is the idle screw?

 

Im willing to bet that the carby needs to be rebuilt or replaced, but I would like to get it running as is so I have a basis to tune this muther up.

 

Almost all advice will be appreciated. I dont need smartassed suggestions as my wife already has that covered.;)

[hang_510]

Where is the idle screw?

 

Almost all advice will be appreciated. I dont need smartassed suggestions as my wife already has that covered.;)

 

well your making it difficult, so i assume your wife will let you tell us carb it is :P

 

 

 

start at 1 -1/2 turns out for the idle and mix.

[datzenmike]

Almost all advice will be appreciated. I dont need smartassed suggestions as my wife already has that covered.;)

 

I hear that!!!!

 

Check the Idle cut solenoid is working by listening at the rear of the carb while someone turns the ignition on/off/on/off. There should be a clicking sound, if not, check the RED wire for 12 volts, ignition ON.

 

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Connector may be loose or just poor connection. Idle cut solenoid may be loose/ bad ground. If the idle cut is NOT working there will NOT be gas to the idle circuit.

[SickDrift]

well your making it difficult, so i assume your wife will let you tell us carb it is :P

 

 

 

start at 1 -1/2 turns out for the idle and mix.

 

 

She's watching TV, so she told me to tell you that I'm not know for my intelligence, also it's the stock Hitachi.

 

I'll try those settings. Wheres the idle screw?

[SickDrift]

I hear that!!!!

 

Check the Idle cut solenoid is working by listening at the rear of the carb while someone turns the ignition on/off/on/off. There should be a clicking sound, if not, check the RED wire for 12 volts, ignition ON.

 

Connector may be loose or just poor connection. Idle cut solenoid may be loose/ bad ground. If the idle cut is NOT working there will NOT be gas to the idle circuit.

 

I'll just stick a multimeter on it as I dont have anyone to turn it on for me. I'll let you know what happens.

[datzenmike]

If it's quiet, (wife not yelling) you can hear the click if the hood is up. It's important that it is working!!!

 

Look at 'my' picture of the carb... there's a long spring hanging down, just below it to the right is a screw with spring coiled around it.... that's the idle mixture screw. About the same distance to the left of the bottom of the long spring is another screw with spring coiled around it... that's the idle speed screw.

 

If you get it to sort of idle... adjust the idle mixture screw (right) to get the fastest even idle speed. Turn in till there is a noticeable change in idle, then out till there is a change, then set roughly in the middle. Now adjust the idle speed screw (left) down to factory recommended 700-800 RPM or a good guess??? Go back to the idle mixture screw and re adjust for best smooth idle, then the idle speed screw.... back and forth until you have the correct RPM and is idling smoothly.

 

You need a warmed up engine, choke off, valves set, ignition timing set, clean air filter and the gas you plan to run it on for best results.

[SickDrift]

If it's quiet, (wife not yelling) you can hear the click if the hood is up. It's important that it is working!!!

 

Look at 'my' picture of the carb... there's a long spring hanging down, just below it to the right is a screw with spring coiled around it.... that's the idle mixture screw. About the same distance to the left of the bottom of the long spring is another screw with spring coiled around it... that's the idle speed screw.

 

If you get it to sort of idle... adjust the idle mixture screw (right) to get the fastest even idle speed. Turn in till there is a noticeable change in idle, then out till there is a change, then set roughly in the middle. Now adjust the idle speed screw (left) down to factory recommended 700-800 RPM or a good guess??? Go back to the idle mixture screw and re adjust for best smooth idle, then the idle speed screw.... back and forth until you have the correct RPM and is idling smoothly.

 

You need a warmed up engine, choke off, valves set, ignition timing set, clean air filter and the gas you plan to run it on for best results.

 

Mike, perfectly explained. Thanks a whole bunch. I will work on this tomorrow, I havent looked at the valves yet but will just to be sure. Need to get a timing light too. Hopefully I can get this bastard running soon.

[SickDrift]

Is the Idle Cut Solenoid one of the solenoids indicated here? I have some cut/loose wires and I'm trying to figure which goes where.

 

[datzenmike]

The bottom (ANTI DIESELING SOLENOID) is the same as idle cut or fuel cut solenoid. Sorry, didn't take into ccount the year of your truck. The wire is White/Blue stripe.

[SickDrift]

Ok, sadly I have a lot of loose wires down here in this area.

 

I will describe the carnage if possible:

 

1] The fuel cut solenoid was wired to the positive side of the coil. It was getting 6v from there, and it was not tripping. So jumpered the fuel cut solenoid ("B") to red wire, (as seen in the picture below at point "A") as it seems to be the only wire in the vicinity that was getting 12v. Once jumpered it did activate when the ignition switch was in the "on" position.

 

2] Module "C" only has one of it's two wires connected, at point "D". The terminal at point "E" is just chillin on it lonesome.

 

3] Point "F", blue with white stripe is hangin out on it's own.

 

4] Module "G" is attatched to a Blue Wire w/Red Stripe. What is this thing?

 

5] Although I dont have it pictured, there seems to be a solid blue wire coming out of the wire harness that is not connected to anything either.

 

 

 

 

Am I just f***ed?

 

These wires themselves dont appear to be in distress, however, it appears that they're just all misplaced. I still cant get this bad boy idleling.

[datzenmike]

No you're not fucked...

 

The Orange wire going between A and the carb is the choke heater. It only needs to be connected to a 12 volt supply that is turned on with the ignition.

 

The Black wire with the B on the end has to be wired up to the same supply as the Orange wire above.

 

 

C is a carb switch that, with a tranny switch, temp switch and a relay, turn the retard set of points on for emissions. Fuk emissions. Just leave the other wires, it will run. All you need is 12 volts on the choke heater and the idle cut solenoid. G might be the thermal switch from inside the cab?