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datsunfreak

Revival of the Chickenhawk...

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I've never wired something from scratch.  Just modified stock harnesses for other uses.  Scratch wiring is hardcore.  But you two tend to be pretty hardcore.

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19 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

I've never wired something from scratch.  Just modified stock harnesses for other uses.  Scratch wiring is hardcore.  But you two tend to be pretty hardcore.

 

I've done the modified stock harness and installed, for lack of a better word, "Painless Style" (prewired fusebox with labeled wires somewhat bundled where they need to go) harnesses.  The worrier in me hates doing the modified stock harness (I'm relieved John sold his 1200 before THAT wiring nightmare came back to bite me!).  The prewired fusebox style is my favorite but for some reason I didn't want to go that route on this project... aaaand I just remembered what that reason was, and need to have my ass kicked.  See, this car used to have an actual Painless Wiring switch box running a lot of the vital systems.  I was going to reuse that but... well, things slowly went awry without my noticing until, literally, just now.  Ok, so I'm not the brightest elevator in the load of bricks... or something like that.

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On 11/16/2019 at 6:47 PM, dimlight65 said:

car used to have an actual Painless Wiring switch box running a lot of the vital systems.  I was going to reuse that but... 

 

Hell, I thought we were still using that...  😀

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I rewired my entire car this summer. Deutsch connectors for the entire chassis to replace all of the stock connectors (minus the ignition) and new connectors for the BMW headlights. I used Tefzel wires for the chassis and Mil-spec for the engine harness. I used all new Mitsubishi engine harness connectors as well.

 

It was a big job. There's no denying that. I think it was well worth it for the peace of mind and the knowledge I gained. I accidentally swapped two wires in the rear tail light on install that I was able to quickly and easily swap on a quick fuel stop. I also learned how resistant the stock harness has become. My horn was going off immediately when I finished the rewire. The new wires were so conductive that the horn button was now flowing current through the sheathing. A small issue hidden by the old wires.

 

I have Bussman fuse/relay panels from Waytek and micro fuses and relays to populate it. Do it for piece of mind if your harness has ever been spliced. You can also save about 5ft of wire by rerouting the rear harness to only follow the driver's side instead of crossing over at the backseat.

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1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

So many colors...

 

large.20191120_180814.jpg.c81153909b41d8

 

 

Yup.  That's 1100 feet of 12 gauge and (I believe) 100 feet of 10 gauge.  I've got pink, orange, grey, white, purple, brown, blue, yellow, red, and black in 12ga as well as red and black in 10ga.  I am looking forward to getting tucked into this wiring harness build.  Wait... is "looking forward to" what I meant to say?  No, "dreading it like the plague"!  THAT'S what I meant to say!

Edited by dimlight65
Changed an "and" to "as well as" for better grammatical feng shui
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Red and yellow and pink and green

Purple and orangle bluuuueeee

I can sing a rainbow

Sing a rainbow

Sing a rainbow toooooooo

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So we were looking for a place to mount an air filter out of the elements but as high up on the car as possible. We think this will be our solution...

 

Step one, gut the heater box and seal up the big holes where the core was with fiberglass...

 

large.20200115_162620.jpg.63434e1db2ae45

 

 

Step two, find the biggest K&N filter that will (almost) fit inside the heater box...

 

large.20200115_163014.jpg.237a8205edbaca

 

 

Reassemble box with air filter trapped inside...

 

large.20200115_163243.jpg.88774627dcc0a0

 

 

Fit metal pipe to filter...

 

large.20200115_182110.jpg.ef8aa4ff80ec92

 

 

 

The only hole in the box now is the one that goes to the cowl intake area, so it should be a true "cold air" intake since all air will come from the cowl vents. 

 

Saturday we should be able to bolt it in and hook up the hose from here to the bulkhead coupler we installed in the firewall way back when...

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Box assembled and installed in the car, with the connector hose hooked up...

 

large.20200122_163835.jpg.0b759a1cca190a

 

 

 

Should be invisible once the dash is installed...  

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On 1/23/2020 at 4:03 PM, datsunfreak said:

Should be invisible once the dash is installed...  

 

*sigh* I was not prepared to believe that until I dropped the dash in for a look see. 

 

Yeah, totes invis.

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As mentioned in the Dajiban thread, we're not going to use the light bar I bought for this project.  We are, however, going to use three sets of 5" round lights on the roof.  What we're thinking is to put three across the front of the roof rack and three across the back.  The two in the middle (one pointing forward and the other back) are just spotlights... or floodlights, I don't remember exactly but it doesn't matter.  The other four are the opposite of whatever the middles are (spot vs flood) and have amber halo fog lights.  These halos will be wired into the turn signals!  The front spot/flood combos we'll wire together, possibly with the 7" and 9" pushbar lights, while the rear facing spot/flood combos will be wired to the reverse light switch.

 

Oh, and I also built a mount for the fuel cell yesterday.

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So, if this thing is ever used offroad (which is not terribly likely to be brutally honest), it could get stuck somewhere (which is actually quite likely, to be brutally honest).  This epiphany got me thinking about a wench.  She used to drive her car into all kinds of... oh, wait.  The voices in my head are telling me it's the other homonym of that word: winch.  Sorry.  So I'm thinking about putting light-ish duty receiver hitches front and rear for a receiver-mounted winch.  

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The fuel cell I bought for this has a screw-on cap for the filler.  The threaded portion of it is something like 2.25" in diameter.  The filler neck thingy I installed in the C-pillar, and the U-bends I bought to connect said filler to said cell, are 2".  I was thinking I would force a 2" hose over the threads and mate the tank to the filler that way.  Well yesterday I noticed a 2" tank filler plate sitting on the shelf.  I also noticed that there's plenty of room on the top of the tank to install it opposite the screw-top filler.  I rotated the tank 180 degrees and had a look.  "Yep," I says to myself, "that ort to work."  Out came the tank and I proceeded to drill six mounting holes and a big-assed filler hole in a perfectly good fuel cell.  John walked in from messing with his Galaxie, took one look at what I was up to, shook his head, and turned to walk away.  After a bit of fettling, we (he did come back in to take the tools out of my hand once he was "done" with his project for the day) managed to get the thing mounted and bolted up.  A bead of black "Gorilla Snot" to seal the questionably drilled mounting holes, and it's done.  I dropped it back in the car, rearranged the feed, return, and vent fittings and I think I'm happy with the solution.  Of course, I just realized that if the fuel is full up into the filler neck, opening the screw-top filler on the other end of the tank is going to make a hell of a mess.  Well, we'll just have to refrain from doing that, I guess.

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