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Weber Tuning Guide

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What book is this out of??

I am running a little rich and need to spend money...

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im rebuilding a 38 weber. and have a 88 nissan hardbody. used to have a throttle body. i have swaped the fuel pump with a 2 to 4 psi. not sure of volume. new plugs and wires. cap rotor everyting new. my question is is there any specific jetting sizes for a 2.4 z24 motor? if there is i would love to get it right the first time. instead of keep changing them out. nothing special about the motor other then exhaust. running ngk r plugs.

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Hi Ratsuns,

      Thank you so much for this thread, I installed a new weber on my 74 datsun 620 but It would not idle and stalled when I release the gas pedal. After reading this thread, I reinstalled tight with thread lock gel and plugged all vacuum leaks and now my truck runs smooth. I had to shave about 3/16 off the adapter plate in order for the weber to sit well on the intake manifold. :thumbup:

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Another ratsun back on the roads because of this thread.

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When I put a 32/36 Weber DGEV or DGAV (I forget which is which, has to do with the choke) on my '86 Dodge Colt Vista, a top local Formula Ford racer/builder told me that the brass float was considered more desirable, but if you can only get a foam float, add a little weight to it.  The Weber that went on my Vista had a brass float, but this guy weighted the foam float on a second one of these carbs that I had  .  .  .  the one that will soon be going on my '81 720, ha ha!!  Probably this is totally unnecessary on a street vehicle, but I thought it might be an interesting bit of trivia for Weber fans.


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Foam will never leak, fill with gas and sink. As the fuel level is the important thing, brass, foam or wood what's the difference? Why the added weight?

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