510 Dash lights (not working)

[saleach]

Good news everyone!

I was able to troubleshoot the power from the green and white wire all the way back to the fuesbox. Once at the fusebox, I had 3 issues that were preventing power getting to the switch:
1. the fuse holder contacts were loose (this is why it powered on and off intermittently). I tightened those up and they held the fuse much better.

2. The green and white wire going to the fuse underneath the box had the insulation damaged and was shorting out, causing the fuse to blow. Wrapping it with electrical tape fixed the problem.

3. The crimp contact inside the connector was loose for the green/white wire. If you shook it with the light on, they would flicker and sometimes go out. I cut up a paperclip and carefully stuffed it in there and it firmed it up. 

I am happy to report the lights are working. Position 1: no lights. Position 2: dash lights, parking and tail lights. Position 3: inner headlights and dash/parking/tail lights. Position 3+turn signal brights illuminates the outer most lights. 

Thanks for the help everyone! Next task: Wiring an aftermarket horn to the existing wiring/relay.

[datzenmike]

The fuse box is removable. Maybe take pictures of where the wires go. Then wash thoroughly to remove any oil, fingerprints  or dirt and loose corrosion. An old toothbrush is good for this. Submerge overnight in a mixture of lemon juice and salt and in the morning rinse thoroughly and dry. (this is actually a Martha Stewart hint for cleaning copper pans) The fuse box is mostly copper and or brass.

 

The clips will heat up if not making good electrical contact and the heat will anneal (soften) the copper and take the springiness out of them. This provides less grip and makes the connections even more likely to heat up. A vicious circle. I've burnt my fingers on my headlamp fuses and melted the ones on a 720 box.

 

620 box. Looked like a '50s Lincoln penny before